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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a licened mechanic but havent much vw experience,
my wifes aunt has a 2001 beetle, 2.0l manual azg code
its been all over her hometown for a no start condition,
she got fed up with paying for nothing,
so far theyve put new coil (could of been cracked)
new fuel pump assy, plugs, wires, fuel pump relay.
heres what its doing,
it has spark, it has fuel pressure
the EPC light is on
it has no power at the injectors
no power at fuses 32, 34, 43
its also throwing codes P0223 throttle pedal position sensor
P0638 throttle actuator control range
P0118 coolant temp sensor
I do not have a VAG com, i could buy if i have to but other than her car i dont know if i would use it too much.
I do have a matco scanner
it will not run at all right now
I did buy a subscrition to alldata (for wiring info)
key on engine off the data stream is saying the throttle is at 62% and the coolant temp is at -40
so i'm thinking its missing some power some where
and im getting a little lost/frustrated
so really i am truly sorry if this is a dumb newb question
but i really do appreciate any help you could give me
thanks in advance
 

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Everett Street in May
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Start with a coolant sensor and clean and reset the throttle.


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Good starting point, but you will need a VAG software tool in order to re-set the throttle body unfortunately.

But, another place to start is directly above the gas pedal. These are drive by wire (which you already know), but if the assembly at the pedal is not working correctly, then the signal stops at that point.

Example is that in the manual transmission car's, their is a connector for the clutch plunger in order to send the electric signal to the starter. If that connector is compromised, no signal goes to the starter and the entire ignition system grounds "open".

So, my 2 cents is confirm that the electric signal is getting to the pedal assembly and then past the pedal assembly. A basic voltage meter will work just fine.

Sorry to hear about your Aunt's car. The VW's are a major Pain in the a $$ to trouble shoot, as they are extremely over engineered.

So their are modules galore to deal with in the wiring system which are a bit over kill in some situations.

Keep us posted, hope you can find the cause and get your Aunts car running again. I'm sure she loves driving it.
 

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it has no power at the injectors
no power at fuses 32, 34, 43
its also throwing codes P0223 throttle pedal position sensor
P0638 throttle actuator control range
P0118 coolant temp sensor

key on engine off the data stream is saying the throttle is at 62% and the coolant temp is at -40
Fuses 28, 32 and 43 feed through the fuel pump relay and fuse 163 in the panel on top of the battery. Since you have already replaced the relay (assuming the new relay is good) it could be the fuse. The panel on the top of the battery is known to be a weak link. (I didn't find fuse 34 in the wiring diagram.)

The coolant sensors are also known to have a high failure rate. Looks like this one is shorted to ground. The original sensors have black plastic body, the redesigned ones are green.

The AEG engine is not a drive-by-wire engine. The throttle position sensor is in the throttle body. As it sounds like the battery has been disconnected it may just be that it will need re-calibration. This is done by turning the key to the run position without starting for a period of 30 seconds and then switching off.
 

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Good starting point, but you will need a VAG software tool in order to re-set the throttle body unfortunately.

But, another place to start is directly above the gas pedal. These are drive by wire (which you already know), but if the assembly at the pedal is not working correctly, then the signal stops at that point.

Example is that in the manual transmission car's, their is a connector for the clutch plunger in order to send the electric signal to the starter. If that connector is compromised, no signal goes to the starter and the entire ignition system grounds "open".

So, my 2 cents is confirm that the electric signal is getting to the pedal assembly and then past the pedal assembly. A basic voltage meter will work just fine.

Sorry to hear about your Aunt's car. The VW's are a major Pain in the a $$ to trouble shoot, as they are extremely over engineered.

So their are modules galore to deal with in the wiring system which are a bit over kill in some situations.

Keep us posted, hope you can find the cause and get your Aunts car running again. I'm sure she loves driving it.
Funny how people say things and a light goes on. There was a time at the dealer when we were replacing either clutch or brake switches like mad! It may have even been a recall. Clutch interlock makes a lot of sense. Of course still needs the temp and TB stuff.


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Funny how people say things and a light goes on. There was a time at the dealer when we were replacing either clutch or brake switches like mad! It may have even been a recall. Clutch interlock makes a lot of sense. Of course still needs the temp and TB stuff.

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The recall was for the brake switches.
 

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no power at fuses 32, 34, 43
I've been able to verify that fuses 28, 32, 34 and 43 are all connected to the fuel pump relay and then to fuse 163 at the battery box.

If you are indeed getting fuel pressure and have power at fuse 28 (fuel pump fuse), that would imply that the fuel pump relay and fuse 163 are OK. In that case the split in the wiring harness for the other fuses must have failed.

If you don't have power at fuse 28 then it is very likely that fuse 163 on the battery box is blown.
 

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Fusebox on Battery

I blew a fuse on top of the battery when working with a wrench near the alternator to replace something like the thermostat. The wrench hit a connector on the alternator and it blew the fuse.

Good luck
 

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Everett Street in May
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I've been able to verify that fuses 28, 32, 34 and 43 are all connected to the fuel pump relay and then to fuse 163 at the battery box.

If you are indeed getting fuel pressure and have power at fuse 28 (fuel pump fuse), that would imply that the fuel pump relay and fuse 163 are OK. In that case the split in the wiring harness for the other fuses must have failed.

If you don't have power at fuse 28 then it is very likely that fuse 163 on the battery box is blown.
Good point, i always ignore the fuses on the battery box. If one of them is blown, same bad things can happen.


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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the help so far!
i work days and have been called in for overtime every day
unfortunatly i havent been able to get back at it
hopefully tomorrow i will be able too,
i will keep you posted on what i find
again thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so, i tested the fuses while cranking and have batt voltage, i also ran some long test leads and have supply voltage at the injectors while cranking.
i also unplugged the coolant temp sensor and crossed the 3-4 terminals with the scan tool hooked up, data should have went to 140'
it did not it stayed at -40 (typical open)
i still have the p0223 p2101 p0638 as well as p0201 p0204 p0267 and p0343
my suspicion is the ecu has packed it in,
would you folks recommend a used one? its still my best educated guess, downside is its still just a guess and i hate that!
i really am against throwing parts at a car but, ive gone as far as i can,
your thoughts/comments are appreciated
 

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One thing you might want to try before the ECU is the engine speed (RPM) sensor, located on front of the engine near the oil filter. When it fails the fuel injectors will not open at all. Also, it does not throw any error codes. From what I've seen around here it is more likely to fail than the ECU. It's also a lot cheaper.

On the temperature sensor, I looked at the schematic and it looks like pins 1 and 3 should be shorted to test the ECU response. Pins 2 and 4 are used for the temp light.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
One thing you might want to try before the ECU is the engine speed (RPM) sensor, located on front of the engine near the oil filter. When it fails the fuel injectors will not open at all. Also, it does not throw any error codes. From what I've seen around here it is more likely to fail than the ECU. It's also a lot cheaper.

On the temperature sensor, I looked at the schematic and it looks like pins 1 and 3 should be shorted to test the ECU response. Pins 2 and 4 are used for the temp light.
crap, aldata said 3-4, i,ll go back and recheck that, thanks,
if the engine speed sensor was bad would i still have spark?
 

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if the engine speed sensor was bad would i still have spark?
I'm not sure. I know the engine won't run at all. I think I saw that this sensor is used to generate the signal for the tachometer. It would be interesting to note whether you see any RPMs on the tach while cranking the engine. I'd like to find something to diagnose the RPM sensor with, but right now I don't know of anything.
 

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Everett Street in May
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Hope that the speed sensor does the trick. If not, I have an old ECU from a 99 2.0L sitting in a parts box of mine.

I'll pull it out and see if it is a match for the 2001 model or not. Do not know if their were any changes with the 2.0l set-up in the early years or not.

I now that there were many with the 1.8T engines, so there are a bunch of different ECU's for them.

If it is a match, I'll send it to you for postage and beer money. Sound good?

Again, hope the speed sensor turns out to be the issue here.
 

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Hope that the speed sensor does the trick. If not, I have an old ECU from a 99 2.0L sitting in a parts box of mine.

I'll pull it out and see if it is a match for the 2001 model or not. Do not know if their were any changes with the 2.0l set-up in the early years or not.
I doubt the ECU will work. The '98-'00 (I believe) engine is the "AEG", which is not drive-by-wire. In 2001 the engine code was changed to "AZG" when the drive-by-wire was added. Warpedredneck has stated that he is working on an AZG.
 

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A '99 would be an AEG.
 

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Everett Street in May
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I doubt the ECU will work. The '98-'00 (I believe) engine is the "AEG", which is not drive-by-wire. In 2001 the engine code was changed to "AZG" when the drive-by-wire was added. Warpedredneck has stated that he is working on an AZG.
A '99 would be an AEG.
Bummer. Thanks for clarifying, good information to know about the 2.0L differences.

Sorry bud, thought I had something that would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
a little update
i found 3 distributors that sell vag-com in ontario,
none of them will return an email
i havent made any progress with the car (keep getting called in)
if i dont get any time on it this weekend im gonna ship it in to the dealer
hope you all are having a great week
 
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