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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody,

I'm trying to find some pictures/guides to replacing the driver's side door wiring harness.

I can't see where the wires go after going inside/behind the steering column.

Where to the two connectors go? I know where all the door connections go, but I can't figure out where inside the steering column they go.

Wires seem to short to make it to the CCM.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For one, some wires are broken and given the location inside the rubber boot, its hard to fix.

My power windows,locks, and mirror controls dont work on the drivers side. Fuel and rear hatch buttons work.

Replace window motor(thought it was the module attached to the motor) and it didnt work. Checked fuses.

Interestingly, everything works when I disconnect and reconnect the battery. This works for about 10 seconds and then everything doesnt work again.
 

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Thanks for the reply, have you confirmed wires are broken? This type of problem is common on other German cars as well.

I do not have a answer for you at this point, I do know the inside of the doors well!

Do you have a stock radio in the car?

Does the OBD port work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your reply as well!

From my understanding at the dealer(which wanted to charge 950 to replace harness) the OBD port works. I indeed confirmed the wires are broken, and tried my best to splice but its hard without taking out the door completely.

I do have a stock radio(Monsoon)

I have a LOT of roof leaks, im thinking from clogged sunroof drains, bad sunroof seal, and partly disconnected/possibly torn sunroof drain tubes(inside the headliner area)

That being said, Im wondering whether water leaked inside the steering column, and ruined wherever the door harness connects to.

Question I have is, where does the door harness connect to? Is it the CCM or somewhere else inside the car?

I dont know what else to do, and I dont want to fork over the 1000$ for them to tell me it wasnt the door harness. Which, if it happened, are they supposed to return my money, or fix the issue? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Man I feel for you on this one, it does not sound fun at all.

What year is your car? Is this something else for all of use to look forward to in the near future?

Do you know how many wires are broken?

I might go to the effort to repair the broken wires, pulling one out at a time and splicing them in, the PITA part is inside the car/under the dash!

I do have an electronic Bentley manual, I will see if the have any info on this, but not likely.

Again, I feel for you on this one!
 

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For one, some wires are broken and given the location inside the rubber boot, its hard to fix.

My power windows,locks, and mirror controls dont work on the drivers side. Fuel and rear hatch buttons work.

Replace window motor(thought it was the module attached to the motor) and it didnt work. Checked fuses.

Interestingly, everything works when I disconnect and reconnect the battery. This works for about 10 seconds and then everything doesnt work again.
What year is your Beetle? The wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual that I use for my '99 shows that the power for the window/mirror/lock module comes through a 30A circuit breaker. This could explain why it works for 10 seconds after you connect the battery. The circuit breaker resets when the battery is disconnected and then blows again after 10 seconds of excessive current. A short in the wire supplying voltage to the door module is a likely culprit. Probably fraying in the wire near the boot connecting the door to the frame, like you are suspecting. Are you sure the passenger door is working normally? The manual isn't too clear about where the voltage source for that module is, but most likely it comes through the same breaker.

The breaker location is on the relay panel, which I think is under the driver side kick shield. It is not on the fuse panel.
 

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Question I have is, where does the door harness connect to? Is it the CCM or somewhere else inside the car?

I dont know what else to do, and I dont want to fork over the 1000$ for them to tell me it wasnt the door harness. Which, if it happened, are they supposed to return my money, or fix the issue? Any help would be appreciated.
I looked at the Bentley manual. There are three connectors behind the lower A-pillar trim. Once these are disconnected, the boot and wires can be pulled through the door frame opening. You may then be able to slide the boot back down towards the connectors to expose the wires within the boot.

On the drivers side the hood release handle must be removed. Pull the handle back about 1" to expose an E-clip that holds the handle on. The trim piece pulls away from the door frame at the top and then lifts off from the door sill.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Man I feel for you on this one, it does not sound fun at all.

What year is your car? Is this something else for all of use to look forward to in the near future?

Do you know how many wires are broken?

I might go to the effort to repair the broken wires, pulling one out at a time and splicing them in, the PITA part is inside the car/under the dash!

I do have an electronic Bentley manual, I will see if the have any info on this, but not likely.

Again, I feel for you on this one!
Thanks for the reply. Car is from 2002, I know there are door issues on the beetle, but im unsure if mine is common or just a freak of nature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What year is your Beetle? The wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual that I use for my '99 shows that the power for the window/mirror/lock module comes through a 30A circuit breaker. This could explain why it works for 10 seconds after you connect the battery. The circuit breaker resets when the battery is disconnected and then blows again after 10 seconds of excessive current. A short in the wire supplying voltage to the door module is a likely culprit. Probably fraying in the wire near the boot connecting the door to the frame, like you are suspecting. Are you sure the passenger door is working normally? The manual isn't too clear about where the voltage source for that module is, but most likely it comes through the same breaker.

The breaker location is on the relay panel, which I think is under the driver side kick shield. It is not on the fuse panel.
Wow. Thanks for the reply. I have to apologize since I'm not too knowledgeable when it comes to electronics, so please bear with me.

The passenger door works perfectly.

The breaker you speak of, does it need to be replaced? Inspected? I've taken down the kick shield several times on the same day out of frustration/hope, so I can remove it easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I looked at the Bentley manual. There are three connectors behind the lower A-pillar trim. Once these are disconnected, the boot and wires can be pulled through the door frame opening. You may then be able to slide the boot back down towards the connectors to expose the wires within the boot.

On the drivers side the hood release handle must be removed. Pull the handle back about 1" to expose an E-clip that holds the handle on. The trim piece pulls away from the door frame at the top and then lifts off from the door sill.

Hope this helps!
Again, thanks! I was trying to take off the lower trim panel and had no luck before. I'll give it another shot today using your instructions. Ill send another update soon.
 

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The breaker you speak of, does it need to be replaced? Inspected? I've taken down the kick shield several times on the same day out of frustration/hope, so I can remove it easily.
I mentioned this as an explanation for the "works for 10 seconds and then stops" behavior. I think the breaker is probably good and the problem is a short somewhere that causes the breaker to blow. The funny thing is that the passenger door still works. I think this goes through the same breaker but I haven't been able to find it in the wiring diagram. If you do manage to find the breaker you could switch it off and see if anything changes.
 

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Again, thanks! I was trying to take off the lower trim panel and had no luck before. I'll give it another shot today using your instructions. Ill send another update soon.
I noticed that there is a ground connection at the base of the A-pillar under the trim panel. It looks like all the things that aren't working ground there. That definitely would be something to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Weather is 55 degrees so I gave it a shot today.

I'm having trouble removing the handle to remove the trim. Any tips? I was able to see where the wires connect to, so I want to remove it entirely so I can have a better look.

Thanks a lot guys!
 

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I'm having trouble removing the handle to remove the trim. Any tips?
Rotate the handle like you are opening the hood, but only move the bottom about 1". You should be able to see an E-clip that holds the handle onto the shaft. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry it out. It may fall behind the panel but can be retrieved after the panel is removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bump old thread.

Was able to get the hood latch handle off. The ground connection looks new.

Couple things I wanted to clarify: The passenger side works from the passenger side. The driver's side is completely dead, with the trunk and gas latch buttons being he exception.

When I disconnect/connect the battery, the driver's side window switch works but the passenger side controls are still dead. After 10min or so, everything dies again.

1) it possible to replace the entire harness? 2) Should I attempt to splice the broken wires again now that I have more room?

3) Could the door lock module microswitch be causing all of these issues?
 

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I don't think the door latch switches should affect the windows. They work whether the door is open or closed.

I would try to diagnose the harness by checking continuity between the door controller connection on the power window motor and the kick panel connectors. Sounds like maybe the +12v connection is bad.

Does the door lock switch or the mirror switch do anything on either side of the car?

Does the passenger door lock switch operate the driver side lock?

From the way you say it works for 10 minutes and then stops, it sounds like a problem in the door controller. If the harness checks good this is likely to be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
red99 thanks for your reply

I'll take pictures of the wires tomorrow at the rubber boot site. I'm not very familiar with electrical connection of the car. When you say door controller connection, is that a specific wire? The kick panel connectors, do i just check the +12v constant one? As far as check continuity does that mean placing a lead at +12v and another at the door controller and seeing if there is current running through? I only have a test light, do I require a multimeter? THanks in advance.
 

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The best way to check continuity would be to use a the ohms scale on a multimeter. You can use the test light if you can devise a way to put 12 volts on one wire at a time (with both ends of the cable disconnected).

The connections for the window controller go between the 29 pin connector at the window controller (which is part of the power window motor assembly) and the black 10 pin connector under the kick panel. Here is a link for the wiring diagrams for the door:

| Repair Guides | Heated Door Mirror (1999) | Heated Outside Mirrors, From September 1998 1 | AutoZone.com

You may need to register online with Autozone to be able to use it. They have a fair amount of good repair info available for people who register.

Unplug both ends of the cable. You may need a magnifying glass to be able to read the pin number labels on the connectors. The main connections that you want to check are (door controller to kick panel):

pin 20 of 29 to pin 8 of 10 (power)
pin 10 of 29 to pin 4 of 10 (ground)
pin 8 of 29 to pin 6 of 10 (communication to central module)
pin 27 of 29 to pin 7 of 10 (communication to central module)
pin 19 of 29 to pin 3 of 10 (door puddle light)

You should also check that the wires on the 29 pin connector listed above don't connect to any other wires on the 10 pin connector other than the one listed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The best way to check continuity would be to use a the ohms scale on a multimeter. You can use the test light if you can devise a way to put 12 volts on one wire at a time (with both ends of the cable disconnected).

The connections for the window controller go between the 29 pin connector at the window controller (which is part of the power window motor assembly) and the black 10 pin connector under the kick panel. Here is a link for the wiring diagrams for the door:

| Repair Guides | Heated Door Mirror (1999) | Heated Outside Mirrors, From September 1998 1 | AutoZone.com

You may need to register online with Autozone to be able to use it. They have a fair amount of good repair info available for people who register.

Unplug both ends of the cable. You may need a magnifying glass to be able to read the pin number labels on the connectors. The main connections that you want to check are (door controller to kick panel):

pin 20 of 29 to pin 8 of 10 (power)
pin 10 of 29 to pin 4 of 10 (ground)
pin 8 of 29 to pin 6 of 10 (communication to central module)
pin 27 of 29 to pin 7 of 10 (communication to central module)
pin 19 of 29 to pin 3 of 10 (door puddle light)

You should also check that the wires on the 29 pin connector listed above don't connect to any other wires on the 10 pin connector other than the one listed.
I have to purchase a multimeter and do some reading before I can check. Just to make sure I understand, I unplug the connectors, pull out the wire in pin 20, 10 etc and connect one end of the multimeter to that, then unplug the other wire/pin from the other connector and connect the other end of the multimeter to the wire. Is that a continuity check.

Update: I connected the wires in the boot, they ended up being the speaker wires( I knew my left side was bad before). So they werent related to the door functions. I feel like I am back to square one.

I could replace the harness, I just dont understand how to remove one of the connectors that goes behind the door to the door latch module...do I really need to tape the glass to the door and remove the entire assembly to disconnect the connector to the door latch module? THANKS for all your help.
 
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