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Imbugd - 99 1.8t
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Discussion Starter #1
Heya guys.. yeah back to the ole aph..

anyway Ive got a 99 1.8t aph. ..slowly Im upgrading the beast as time goes by. Hey now that Im outta warranty I dont even have to worry about it at all! ..so I play a bit more.

So I want to get chipped eventually.. the usual research going into this.. but 2 things I cant quite find.

1. Long ago seems like there was a chipping co. that offered a gas miser mode, to lower gas consumption. (Im sure this was terrible for performance, but maybe it would be ok on commuting.) Anyone remember this? ..which company it was? .. or even better has it and knows if its even worthwhile?

2. Since its an APH the normal suggestion is to get a 4bar fpr to be able to get more gas through the smaller injectors. Some people choose to do that and/or change out the injectors.

Can you just change out the injectors without causing problems for the ECU? ..seems like something the ECU would need to know about in order to get everything right. ..my injectors have a bit of a leak in them anyway so Im likely switcing them.. should I just go ahead and switch them up to the larger version as long as Im doing it?

Just some thoughts.. thanks for your intput.
 

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your ecu will be able to adapt to the change in injectors depending on what size you use. I use an adjustable FPR with the 317cc injectors off of a later model 1.8T with no issues whatsoever. I run the RaceSpecECU chip (racespececu.com).
 

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Keep It Real
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The only really effective gas mileage mode will be ones brain keeping ones foot from getting deep in the throttle so often, you won't burn excessive fuel if you control that overwhelming desire to get far into boost all the time.
 

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Yeah, hehe, the only gas-saving mode I can think of would be low-boost.

Sorry, don't recall anyone actually doing THAT; but I know several allow you to retain the stock program as well. And even a valet mode; I'm not sure how gas-sippy that one is; but it does throttle down the turbo....APR.


noR
 

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Keep It Real
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Doesn't matter what the boost is or even if it's normally aspirated, if you're planting your foot on the pedal fuel mileage will drop.
 

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Imbugd - 99 1.8t
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103 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the info

Heya.. thanks for the info on the injectors..itll be useful info.

On the other topic.. Yes I realize the whole thing about not flooring it and driving erratically as far as gas mileage goes. And for the most part on the commute to work and back thats not too much of a problem. Cruising on the odd Saturday night may be a different story, but this is for the long boring haul that Im looking into for now.

I can see that even if it did exist it would likely have not worked well, or wasnt very popular since noone has heard of it. But surely if you can optimize for power output you could optimize for fuel consumption..

Anyway .. if someone does run across this thread that has heard of the chip with the 'gas miser' mode in it .. feel free to drop me a note.
 

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most chips still use basically stock part-throttle maps which will keep the engine between 18:1 and 15:1 a/f ratio while not in boost depending on what the load is on the engine. You're really not going to get any more lean/fuel-efficient than that without seriously risking damage to internal components. Only other things to do to increase efficiency are to jack up tire pressure (less rolling resistance), strip out weight (less work for the engine), or use a trans with the 3.64 final drive ratio and the TDI 5th gear on top of it. (you could probably cruise at 80 at 2000 rpm or something ridiculous like that with a trans setup like that).
 

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As I recall, most of the chip vendors make some claim about the "gas-saving" features of their fabulous programming. Lets be serious, tho....you'd have to circumnavigate the globe to save enough gas to make up for all the gas you'll burn when you're out there having fun in your chipped NB. Because it's very fun.

I have a 2000 Beetle with the APH motor and a GIAC chip. GIAC (and others) sell fancy chips that support various driving modes, but they may not be available for your particular application. Don't forget to replace your crappy plastic DV with a beefy metal DV when you get your chip.

I have a non-fancy chip from a few years ago that makes 1st gear seem almost pointless sometimes, yet still lets me get 28-30 mpg on the highway, as long as I don't put my foot in it too often. I know this because I had to drive about 800 miles one day a few weeks ago. I watched the mpg pretty closely because I always think there is something wrong with my car.
 

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Keep It Real
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The software chip is an electrical device and first gear is completely mechanical so it's not your chip that makes first gear seem as you say "almost pointless", the software has little to do with the mechanical operation or boundaries of first gear.

Unfortunately first gear on this and many other cars is too short from the factory which renders it pretty much worthless all by itself, this is one of the areas that I addressed when I had my 6spd close ratio manual transmission built.

My new longer first gear is not only a lot more usable during acceleration but I can now down shift into it as well.
 

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I want to chip my car.......... but i am not sure which one is the best : GIAC or APR.
I go to track with my car each summer and i need to be sure that my chip is made for it.
 

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Keep It Real
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Well I for one would not recommend buying APR software for a Beetle at this point because Beetle tuning has never been high on their list, they spend the majority of their time working on Audi's, Jetta's and Golf's etc.

I've had four GIAC chips and two Neuspeed chips and I would say that GIAC #1 and Neuspeed #2 currently have the best quality programs, I read about too many people saying that they experience problems and fault codes after installing an APR chip.

I would only suggest that you open good lines of communication with them and get answers for any questions or concerns that you might have, before making a purchase.

 

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Thanks, I'll buy a GIAC software....
I had an Upsolute chip before.
I didn't like it besause I had a peak at about 17psi and after 4500RPM, boost decreased around 10-11 psi (road test at 3rd gear)
 

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Keep It Real
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Yes, GIAC standard K03 and K04 software is about $495 to $595 and as far as labor goes I'd recommend taking the ECU out yourself, ECU software installation shouldn't take them more than an hour.

Check their labor rate, with ECU in hand it shouldn't cost you more than about $80 but if they flash your ECU the labor should be even less.

DO some GIAC dealer research on this and ask some questions so you know exactly what's what.
 

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Keep It Real
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GIAC makes a large number of software files, you might be better off contacting them and asking for that information as it pertains to your setup.
 

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http://www.boostvalve.com/moreinfo.htmlI also have an APH motor and we all know that they are the most limited on horsepower potential. If I had an AVW I'd get a chip in a second. I was thinking about a chip for the APH but wanted to try a boost controller first. When I was first playing around with a boost controller I wanted to dyno it and see if the air/fuel was safe ect. I did a baseline of about 6psi that sometimes spiked to 8psi. I then put on the boost controller and tweaked the boost to about 11 psi steady. I didn't want to go too high on boost and brake anything. The car's mods at that time were only a mufflerectomy, snowboxectomy and K&N panel filter. Here's some dyno on that.....


I now have the boost controller set to about 14 psi spike and 12-13 psi steady but I don't have a dyno for that yet. Since the horsepower numbers to the wheels are right about on par with the chip, I'm happy with just leaving it be.
 

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