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Got the Throttle Body, Intake Manifold and Injectors all cleaned up and ready for re-installation. I forgot to take the "before" pics, sorry about that.
I've been following this thread with interest.

Great job... let us know when it's all done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
Thanks! :)

I got a little off course this past week, the headliner in my '98 let me know it was time for a change, so I have been working on it lately.

The next events to come up are...

1) Turbo
2) Exhaust manifold
3) Installation of the turbo coolant tube
4) Secondary water pump - checking the "Y" connector
5) Water Pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
Ok, I performed a detailed inspection of the turbo and decided that it does not need to be removed. I did not see anything that would justify its removal.

Removal of the turbo IS NOT required for cylinder head removal.

[CCH DIY 124] Shows the coolant tube connections and a vacuum hose connection.

[CCH DIY 125] Shows the first two of four exhaust bolts and an Un-Identified (A?) hex bolt. I'm not certain if it needs to be removed or not, as this is the only visible angle I could get of it. So you will have to use your judgment.

[CCH DIY 126] Shows the last two of four exhaust bolts and one vacuum connection.

[CCH DIY 127] Shows the two bolts for the oil pick up tube, that connects to the oil pan.

[CCH DIY 128] The bolt for the turbo support bracket and the coolant tube (124-3) connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
Well I did manage to get the secondary water pump [CCH DIY 129] out this weekend and it definitely leaks; so I need to see if it can be rebuilt. The secondary water pump is located at the one o'clock position just above the radiator fan, near the alternator; it is held on by two clamps, 129-1 and 129-2. Disconnect the electrical connector first 129-3, the lower hose connection 129-5 [CCH DIY 044-A] is the easiest to disconnect; it is just out of view. The lower hose is attached to the metal tube [CCH DIY 134-135] that is attached to the frame on the passenger side so you will have to get under the car to do it. Remove screws 129-1 and 129-2 and pump can be pulled up from its location.

Hose connection 129-4 can be disconnected once the pump is pulled out from its location [CCH DIY 130]. Pics [CCH DIY 131 thru 133] shows where the leak is and by the amount of crust it has been leaking for some time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
Ok, I read a post about the charged air pressure sensor and decided to take a look at Cowboy's. Just in case, as I do not want any more surprises. Well I'm glad I decided to take a look, because I did get surprised! :eek: I wanted to know how much oil was still in it and if it was too much I was going to go back and pull the turbo off.

The CAP sensor turned out to be OK, but the intercooler is where the surprised was and no it was not still full oil; actually it had very little, thankfully. Apparently the cooling fins were full of sand! :eek: Now how do you supposed the intercooler would have functioned having sand clogging the cooling fins?

Unfortunately I used the air compressor to blow out the cooling fins and the sand went everywhere; so I'm not certain how clogged it was. At some point I will be pulling the wife's intercooler out to check hers.

If all you want to do is clean your CAP here is the thread for that.

Removing the intercooler is fairly easy. I do not have a complete DIY as my NB is half dissembled already; however here are the basic steps. You will need a jack, jacks stands and an oil drip pan. Steps #4 and #8 will prove to be problematic for those of you Turbo S owners.

1) Remove the passenger side front tire.
2) Remove the inner wheel well plastic shroud.
3) The intercooler may have oil in it, so get a drip pan put under it and remove the hose clamp from the lower intercooler tube.
4) Remove the passenger side blinker to disconnect the CAP wiring harness [CCH DIY 136].
5) Disconnect the upper intercooler tube from the intake manifold.
6) In the wheel well remove the top two bolts from the intercooler upper support [CCH DIY 137].
7) Underneath on the opposite side of the intercooler remove the bolt in the lower support [CCH DIY 138].
8) Gently! With some twisting and pulling lower the intercooler so that you can see the CAP sensor connector in the blinker crevice [CCH DIY 139] and disconnect the sensor wire harness.
9) Finish pulling out the intercooler and watch out for more oil.

Pic [CCH DIY 140] shows you the sand that just fell out of it when I turned it over to see how much oil was left in it; not a lot thankfully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Well I got around to taking the secondary water pump apart and all it needs is an o-ring. Now I do have two other issues, but I'm not certain to what they will be. One is the metal "clip washer"; item 2 and it is really worn. The other is the broken edge of the bucket; item 4 which holds the rotating blades; item 3. There are six parts to the secondary water pump and they are...

1) The coolant tube
2) A metal washer/bushing
3) The pump fins/blades
4) The bucket/cradle
5) O-Ring
6) The pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
Sometimes I am my own worst enemy. Well when I was cleaning the oil pan and all that I completely forgot about the broken dip stick funnel, :mad: ... and yesterday I decided to deal with it and not remove the oil pan. I know that some of the pieces are going to drop into the pan regardless of my efforts; however I wanted to minimize it as much as possible.

I found out that the dip stick tube narrows about a half way down so I got a wooden stick from Lowes and wrapped duct tape around it to make a plug. Then I used a flat head screw driver to crack the outer plastic piece; the make shift plug prevented any pieces from falling in. [CCH DIY 144]

Now the inside piece was more difficult because it did not crack but break into small pieces. Buy pressing my plug against the small pieces and pulling up, the majority of the pieces fell out instead of in. [CCH DIY 145]

Remove the final piece was easy; pressed my plug against the plastic and pull up; the piece came out with breaking up. [CCH DIY 146]

While doing this I noticed that the hose from the radiator to the water flange had a lot of pink residue on it where it is or had leaked at some time; so I took those hoses out, inspected, cleaned and reinstalled them. [CCH DIY 147]

Also I found out that rubber gloves do not do well as protective caps if left on during periods of excessive heat; they deteriorated, [CCH DIY 148] so I spent the rest of the day cleaning off the melted rubber of of my electrical connectors. I also noticed that G12 kinds melts latex rubber [CCH DIY 149] making it very sticky. I had to scrape it out of a couple of hoses using scissors. [CCH DIY 150] So on future projects I'll have to be more vigilant and replace these latex caps before they show signs of deterioration.
 

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Looks like you're progressing just fine. Modern engines are just so complicated. So many sensors to deal with and so many plastic parts that can break. I rebuilt the motor on a '73 Super Beetle years ago... that's super easy compared to the 1.8t.

About the the Charged Air Pressure sensor...

Where can I find this screw driver?



Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
Well I'm getting ready to finish up the Blend Door DIY and I have to move Cowboy out of the Garage to do it. So before moving it I realized that the windows were still down, so I had to disconnect fuse #28 to disable the fuel pump. Did not want it trying to prime the fuel rail!

Also I decided to check the PCV tube as noted in this post and I'm glad I did my hose is cracked! I am fortunate though, mine is not nearly as dirty or oily as the pics in that post. Even though the picture is blurred you can still the see the crack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Looks like you're progressing just fine. Modern engines are just so complicated. So many sensors to deal with and so many plastic parts that can break. I rebuilt the motor on a '73 Super Beetle years ago... that's super easy compared to the 1.8t.

About the the Charged Air Pressure sensor...

Where can I find this screw driver?



Thanks!
Here you go... click here
 

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D2beetle, I can't tell you how much I wish you lived in the eastern end of Tn. I'd SO pay you to do our timing belt and w/p. :( Still can't decide if I wanna attempt it on my own or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
D2beetle, I can't tell you how much I wish you lived in the eastern end of Tn. I'd SO pay you to do our timing belt and w/p. :( Still can't decide if I wanna attempt it on my own or not.
It is not that hard, for the "average" home mechanic it is a week end job; Saturday to take it apart, Sunday to put it all back together.

Just remember to take many pics along the way so you can put back exactly like it looked before you started.
 

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It is not that hard, for the "average" home mechanic it is a week end job; Saturday to take it apart, Sunday to put it all back together.

Just remember to take many pics along the way so you can put back exactly like it looked before you started.
Pictures! That's what I always forget. lol I've done a few TBs, just not on a VW. (Honda mostly) I'm just afraid to tear up her car. If it's mine, it's not as big a deal, but if I mess her's up, it'd be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Pictures! That's what I always forget. lol I've done a few TBs, just not on a VW. (Honda mostly) I'm just afraid to tear up her car. If it's mine, it's not as big a deal, but if I mess her's up, it'd be bad.
Pictures are worth the thousand (and more!) things that we forget...
 

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Pictures! That's what I always forget. lol I've done a few TBs, just not on a VW. (Honda mostly) I'm just afraid to tear up her car. If it's mine, it's not as big a deal, but if I mess her's up, it'd be bad.
Having replaced the T-belt and H20-pump twice now (105k and 170k), it's the lack of space that's most annoying. It slows down the process quite a bit. So I just go slowly and take the whole weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Had to work on Valdez (my daily drive), winter is coming. I have plans to put the intercooler, the secondary water pump put back in and the various hoses tubes replaced. I am waiting till next year to put the head back on, as I just do not like working in the cold.

Also I get very little done on any of my projects once October gets here; everyone moves into the Holiday routine. You do realize that Christmas is less than 60 days away?
 
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