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Discussion Starter #1
This is my wifes 2002 GLS 5speed, with 165k on the odometer. AVH engine.

Last summer every time it sat the battery would die...so i replaced it last July with a Duracell unit from Sams Club.

Now it seems to be completely random (dead yesterday morning, but not this morning) but i think historically, its ONLY at first glance of weather change. IE - yesterday/day before it REALLY started warming up. Did the same thing during a warm spout in January, in which i couldnt track down the issue then either.

Ive had the battery tested at Sams Club and they said its ok. Took it to Advance Auto Parts yesterday after work to have it tested again along with the alternator. They say both are good. Here is the printed report:



So it looks like im looking for a parasitic draw somewhere.
The car has an aftermarket headunit that i installed myself last September. From harness to harness, each connection was soldered and heat-shrink wrapped, so i know theres nothing that would be shorting out on that front. Also, for example, when the car is running and you pull into the garage with the radio on, turn the car off...the radio will continue to stay on even when you open the door. It ONLY shuts off when the key is literally removed from the ignition. Is this proper functionality?

The door locks and windows seem to work as normal and never had a problem to my knowledge. Shes never said anything weird was going on with them. I thought maybe the microswitch needs repaired/replaced but if everything is working as normal, its functioning fine.

Next thought was the ignition switch needs replaced but ive never seen any lights staying on inside after closing all of the doors. I thought that was the only thing tied to that going bad? or am i wrong?

The only thing electrically known to be awkward with the car is the trunk release. Every time the release is hit via the drivers door panel switch or the key fob, you have to race to lift it up or it will lock itself again after its slightly popped and you have to hit the release again to free it. Could this have something to do with the issues we're having? Fix for that?

I know this was long but im trying to provide enough details to get better help.

Cross posting for maximum helpage. lol

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...runs-fine-when-jumped&p=81447480#post81447480
 

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Also, for example, when the car is running and you pull into the garage with the radio on, turn the car off...the radio will continue to stay on even when you open the door. It ONLY shuts off when the key is literally removed from the ignition. Is this proper functionality?NORMAL

The only thing electrically known to be awkward with the car is the trunk release. Every time the release is hit via the drivers door panel switch or the key fob, you have to race to lift it up or it will lock itself again after its slightly popped and you have to hit the release again to free it. Could this have something to do with the issues we're having? Fix for that? NORMAL, I believe there is a Tech Bulletin on this, I think some sort of spring needs to be installed??
Suggest you get a Voltmeter, if you do not have one, a $20 meter from Radio Shack, Home Depot or the local auto parts store will work.

You need to determine if in fact the battery is really low when the car will not start or if there is a connection problem.

Also knowing the battery Voltage if it is low can give you and idea of what may be going on??

How long ago was the head unit installed?? Did the car have a Monsoon system with the separate amp in the trunk?

Make sure the door latches are good and the interior lights do not stay on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
This thread is similar; try doing the testing in the service bulletin to track down the culprit.

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/60287-battery-draining-overnight-02-turbo-s.html
thanks, ill take a look...mustve been the only battery dead related thread i HAVENT read through.

lol, wait, thats actually a thread i replied to yesterday of a guy currently in a similar situation.

Suggest you get a Voltmeter, if you do not have one, a $20 meter from Radio Shack, Home Depot or the local auto parts store will work.

You need to determine if in fact the battery is really low when the car will not start or if there is a connection problem.

Also knowing the battery Voltage if it is low can give you and idea of what may be going on??

How long ago was the head unit installed?? Did the car have a Monsoon system with the separate amp in the trunk?

Make sure the door latches are good and the interior lights do not stay on.
I do have a multimeter...several actually.

If there was a connection problem, why would it start right up when jumped? Both terminals are tight around the battery posts.

When it doesnt start next time, i will try to remember to check the voltage.

HU was installed 9/12

door latches are good? how do i check that?

interior lights turn off as normal.
 

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11.47 Volts tells me your problem is not a connection problem or a bad cell in the battery.

You clearly have some sort of load on the battery.

So if you have a Voltmeter with a 10 Amp current shunt, you can actually measure the current consumption when the car sits.

Usually 50-150 mA is the max draw you should expect.

Keep in mind there may be some modules that may need to "go to sleep"?? with many cars this timeframe is about 20 minutes.

So what I would do connect at meter up on a 10 Amp current set up in series with the battery. Wait 30 minutes after shutting the door and then see what your current consumption is reading.

You can then start pulling fuses until you can isolate the circuit to determine what circuit may be the cause of the problem.

Beware, when you open the door to access the fuse panel, you may "wake up" some modules in the car?? if so this may be a bit confusing??

You might be able to keep the door open and manually latch the door while the door is open. Just remember that you will have to open the latch before closing the door again.

I hope this make sense to you??
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
yeah i tried that earlier per one of the links above with a DIY parasitic draw youtube video and i get ~.14a draw with the door latch manually closed. the lights turn off inside and when i pull fuse #14, the draw goes down to .04a...

im confused b/c the draw is less than half of what i hear is "excessive" but its still killing the battery. This may be b/c all of her interior lights are LED's?

EDIT: what ill do is leave that fuse pulled overnight for a few nights to see what happens...at that point i suppose i need to pull the door latch and check for bad solder joints...
 

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What is the current consumption of the current draw??

Are you stating Voltage when you mean Amperage?

Are you stating 0.140 Amp?? Or 140 mA? Without the fuse pulled?

And then are you stating 0.040 Amp or 40 mA with the fuse pulled>

40 mA would be an expect value, 140 mA would be too high and could be your problem, you just need to figure out what is on the fuse you have pulled.

Does the car have a Monsoon audio system???
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What is the current consumption of the current draw??

Are you stating Voltage when you mean Amperage?

Are you stating 0.140 Amp?? Or 140 mA? Without the fuse pulled?

And then are you stating 0.040 Amp or 40 mA with the fuse pulled>

40 mA would be an expect value, 140 mA would be too high and could be your problem, you just need to figure out what is on the fuse you have pulled.

Does the car have a Monsoon audio system???
yes, sorry amps...ill edit my post.

it was 0.14A with the door lock manually locked. Once i pulled the fuse it dropped to 0.04A. #14 fuse is door locks/windows/interior lights. (mine are LED, which may be why the value is so low to start.)

How can i tell if its a Monsoon system? Does it say on the front of the factory radio?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'd like to bump this thread as her car started doing this again. I disconnected the Monsoon amp in the back of the car and the wouldnt start again on its own last night. Im back to square one....should I bother chasing down the door lock microswitch or look at the other common failure...the ignition switch? someone over at the vortex said he installed an aftermarket headunit in too and had the same problem. took it to the dealer and they said it was the headunit, he put the factory one back in and its been fine since. If that was our case, why wouldnt it be killing the battery all the time? it doesnt seem to matter the temperature...though now that its freezing it IS doing it but it was happening in the spring but did not all throughout the summer and fall.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Left the fuse for the door locks out to test the micro switch in the door. No dice. Car wouldn't start after, at the most, 4 hours.

Removed her aftermarket head unit to test if that's it. Will report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No dice with the headunit. Battery drains down to 7.5V in 30 minutes....I would appreciate any help at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
10-4, will be trying to do this and some other testing this weekend. will report back. Ive had the ****s of this car's electrical system since day 1 of ownership.
:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
troubleshooting kindve at a standstill. battery held charge with negative cable disconnected. since i reattached it, its been draining much slower now. tried to disconnect the black wire on top of the battery with the fuses that connects to the alternator...next morning it was at 11.8xV

will check out that link.
 
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