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your_mom said:
what about a smaller battery i.e half the size of the orignal any out their that will give out the same power i just want more room to make my own cold air intake :)
I am no battery expert, but I think the group 35 battery is already one of the smaller 12V SLA batteries around. Anything smaller and you would be looking at either a wimpy motorcycle battery, or a 6V battery.

And for the record, the factory intake is already a cold air intake, drawing cold air from outside the engine from the driver-side fender. And if you have plans to put your own cone-type CAI in, you're gonna be removing the stock airbox to free up more than enough room anyway.

-Rick
 

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Shroud needed?

How important is the plastic shroud? I could not get it back on after putting in the new battery, and I cracked it in the process and snapped off the hole for the bolt. So I need a new one, but does it matter?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
TechVW said:
How important is the plastic shroud? I could not get it back on after putting in the new battery, and I cracked it in the process and snapped off the hole for the bolt. So I need a new one, but does it matter?
I think it is mainly a pretty.
 

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Autobots! Roll out!
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Pulgamovil said:
Last battery change I had I did it at the stealership....

I bought the new OEM one, gave it to the service guys (they offered installing it for free so what do I care....

45 minutes later they were still fighting with the instalation with 2 guys!!! I AM NOT making this up....

Finally I told em the correct secuence (thats the trick) and they could finish the job.

Yeah its dificult, yeah its complicated, but 2 guys for 45 minutes GIVE ME A BREAK
When I got my Herbies battery replaced at a Les Schwab (and, yep, I specifically asked if they were experienced in replacing a NB battery), I actually caught the mechanic repeatingly sitting ON the battery hopping up and down to get it to fit!!!:eek:

I nearly had to be restrained as i was going to toss a chair through the partition window to the garage floor! They got another mechanic to finish the job, thankfully...

And like you 45 minutes later, Herbie was feeling much better (sans a few oily fingerprints on the hood).
 

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RUF BUG STAGE II
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Traum said:
I know people have varying degrees of success with installing these 3 kinds of batteries into the Bug. Having recently installed a Group 35 Optima Red Top into my Bug, however, it makes me wonder why anyone would want to use a Group 34/34R when the Group 35 is cheaper, lighter, smaller, and a better fit. At 720CCA, the Group 35 version already has more cranking amps than you'll ever need. Unlike the Group 34/34R, the electrodes of the Group 35 are in the same position as the stock battery.

-Rick
So Rick, I'm assuming the Group 35 is the way to go? Is there a specific model # or is that it?

"Hollywood":cool:
 

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RUF BUG STAGE II
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Traum said:
I am not sure what a 47-series battery is. But the Optima RedTop that I bought is a Group 35 battery, and it is perfectly sized for the factory battery box.

-Rick
So I'm assuming that this particular Optima fits back inside and allows the factory plastic box/cover to be re-used? I just don't know what I'd do with the friggin' fuse pack that goes on top of it, if I couldn't re-use the factory box.

"Hollywood":cool:
 

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Walmart Replacement Battery

This was a great how-to on the battery replacement! Just an update if anyone uses Walmart Batteries. I use them because no matter where I go in the US, usually there is a Walmart nearby if I need replacement or warranty issues. I know there are better batteries out there, but so far, I have had great use out of them. I have a 2000 1.8T Beetle. The replacement book at Walmart listed a 48-3 replacement, which I purchased. I then went home and pulled out the old battery and found out the new 48-3 was too wide, at 11", it needed to be 9". I took the old battery back with the 48-3 and found a 47-3 that was the perfect size as my old interstate battery, just 3/8" taller. I exchanged it and installed it tonight without any serious issues, other than the cheezy brittle plastic junk battery surround which is about useless. I ended up putting more cracks in it than it already had, but oh well. Hopefully I will be good for another five years it everything else holds up on her!
 

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RUF BUG STAGE II
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Just installed the Optima Group 35 / Red Top 35 in the "Ruf Bug":

http://www.batteriesareus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=113_22&products_id=61

Perfect Fit!:bigthumb: Replaced the stock unit very neatly, and has a much better "discharge rate", so I'm confident it'll be fine sitting as long as it does.

It's even actually a bit smaller and lighter than the stock unit!! Always nice to be able to save a little size & weight in our NB'S.

"Hollywood":cool:
 

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I've been buggered.
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899 Posts
A few days ago when I bought my NBS, the dealer had no techs and the battery was dead as I went to leave the lot. The same problem happened when I test drove it two days earlier. So I complained that I needed a battery NOW, and I could do it myself. It took 10 minutes and was the first thing I've ever done to a NB.
But then, I was a tech for about 4 years of my life, too.:rolleyes:

1) Remove cover from battery, two tabs at the backside hold it on.
2) Loosen battery cable clamps from posts. 10mm nuts, loosen only enough to get them free.
3) remove bolt and lock plate for battery (13mm and 10" extension)
4) Remove 10mm bolt for power steer tank only, 10" extension helps here, too. Tank lifts up to clear tabs on battery shroud.
5) Lift passenger side of battery to stand it up on end, and pull it out. Shroud may bend and flex, but the battery will come out if you are careful.
6) Reverse instructions to replace. When replacing the PS tank, be sure that the two different plates are lined up and the bolt passes through both of them.:D
 

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just replaced battery

Just replaced battery in my 2002 beetle. Very easy. Only have to remove the front bolt on the bracket holding the battery in place and the power steering bolt. Then after taking off the terminals you just pull it away from the fender, flip it on its side and out it goes. The front bracket can be tricky- I used a magnetic tool to make sure the bracket didn't drop.
 

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So my battery is starting to make me think it needs replacing. It's 5 1/2 years old. I have always used Optimas in my Jeeps, running a dual Yellow Top set up for winches and on board air etc. So I would like to put at least a Red Top in. I see where most are using a Group 35, my question is the post orientation. I have an 05 and the Posititve is on the left (looking in the engine bay). Seemed to me I read where the pos.post on the Gr 35 is the opposite side (the Optima chart). Am I right? Wrong. :confused: Seemed the 34 has the post in the right place, or do you just run the cables across. Huh?

The Red Top in the How To is a 34, can anybody help me figure this out so I can order the right one for my Beetle. Are they all the same from 98 to 2005 or are some years different? I am carrying jumper cables with me starting today :D

Any help appreciated

Tracy
 

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Ok, so this is a duh......... Just swap it around. Sorry I asked.....duh! :rolleyes:

Tracy
It's in an works
 

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DO you need a vag-com to reset throttle on a 2002 1.8t when you change out the battery?
Only if the battery goes dead and it sits for a few weeks. Do it with a VAG..
U CAN turn key on slowy press gas peddle down hold for 30 sec. Slowly let peddle back up. turn key off
they hope it starts.

Does this apply with a 2000 2.0 as well. I changed the battery today and now someone has paranoid by saying this....if you replace the battery you need to adapt the throttle valve to the ECM after If you don't, you may have an issue after the battery replacement. I'm not even sure what that means, but now I am nervous I was supposed to do something "special" aside from just taking out the old battery and putting in a new one.
 

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My Battery was good, But I had a Optima Red Top, that was in my Honda, just going bad. took it to get it checked out they gave a new one. so I put in Abbey fit like a glove. I want to add a second one in the back, may be one day.:)
 

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Thanks for this thread. My battery died here in Guam. Overpaid for a Type 35 red top at NAPA (No "regular" batteries available for the Beetle) and swapped it out in 30 minutes. Started right up. This thread truly was a help. My Beetle is a 2000 2.0 engine.
 

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Tips for getting power steering pump bolt back in?!?!

Ok, so I took my battery and tray out to replace my reverse light switch and that was a breeze.
Getting the power steering revervoir bolt back in....not so much.
I literally spent 45 minutes trying to get the positive battery cable bracket lined up just right while trying to thread the bolt and it will not go.
Any tips, folks?
I knew something was gonna be a bugger after the rest of it went so fast and so easy. :eek:

UPDATE: FIXED IT!!!
FOR ANYONE ELSE WHO MAY ENCOUNTER THIS: The easiest way to make this little beast go back in is to make sure your battery box is fitting tight and as far to the right as it will go or it will push the reservoir too much to the left to allow good alignment for the bolt hole. Then make sure the reservoir hooks back onto the battery box as you push it down, lining up the posts on the bottom of the reservoir with the holes in the base bracket and also lining up with the 2 tiny flanges on the positive battery cable bracket. Drop the bolt into the hole and wiggle the positive battery cable bracket a little until the bolt slips down into place. Tighten and you are OUTTA THERE! It literally took 2 seconds after I realized what the hang-up was. I felt pretty dumb...LOL
 
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