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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was going about 65 mph on the highway when beetle choked, no acceleration, and died. Turn the key and came on again and it was okay. Anyone have a clue? Thank you.
 

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Over boost ,forces throttle body to close, Overheating will trigger light and alarm. Possibly shut the motor down. Check your vacuum lines and charge pipes for leaks.
 

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Check for trouble codes and charging system battery voltage? I would also, inspect your timing belt; for any damed teeth, cracks signs of wear and confirm, the timing marks are in correct phase.


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You can still get trouble codes; without the light coming on. Do you have a scan tool? You could run it by a auto parts store and have them scan for codes, have the charging system checked. I would definitely, check the timing belt and marks! A timing issue, will bend the valves on the 1.8T; it is a interference engine and a head gasket, head job, isn't cheap!
 

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I can’t guess what your situation is, but I sorted out a 2001 1.8t automatic Passat with the same/similar issue. It died out at freeway speed, I fully cycled the key out and back in to start the car right up. I was pulled over long enough to check fluid levels.

I scanned the car (myself) and found an intermittent power feed to the ECU. I swapped out the troubled relay with a new one and I haven’t had the issue surprise me.

I’ve also helped diagnose other VWs of the same era with similar issues as yours. They pointed to transmission speed sensor, crank position sensor, camshaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor (weird, right?) OR knock sensors. All of which were cheap and relatively easy DIY fixes.

Only some of those issues threw check engine lights in the dash, but all issues were stored on the ECUs and viewed by an OBD2 scanner or VCDS.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I can’t guess what your situation is, but I sorted out a 2001 1.8t automatic Passat with the same/similar issue. It died out at freeway speed, I fully cycled the key out and back in to start the car right up. I was pulled over long enough to check fluid levels.

I scanned the car (myself) and found an intermittent power feed to the ECU. I swapped out the troubled relay with a new one and I haven’t had the issue surprise me.

I’ve also helped diagnose other VWs of the same era with similar issues as yours. They pointed to transmission speed sensor, crank position sensor, camshaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor (weird, right?) OR knock sensors. All of which were cheap and relatively easy DIY fixes.

Only some of those issues threw check engine lights in the dash, but all issues were stored on the ECUs and viewed by an OBD2 scanner or VCDS.


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I don't have the VCDS yet, but I have the OBD2 scanner. When I checked with the OBD2, there were no issues. But when I did a live data test, coolant temperature was 200 or 221 degrees. Even billymade ( one of the member here) mentioned it was too high. I have a 5 speed manual. One shop did a diagnostic test and found that I have a coolant leak from side flange which I will change when the part arrive. It might also be the MAF sensor, and throttle body. Thank you for addressing your past issue with your car. I got it noted and will most likely change the coolant temperature sensor, and the thermal switch too. By the way, what is the exact part number for the intermittent relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Please, post any trouble codes you find and this can help narrow down the problem.


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I don't have a vcd or vag com yet. I looked at Ebay and It's only showing the usb cables. Sorry. But any link or web sight where I can get it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You can still get trouble codes; without the light coming on. Do you have a scan tool? You could run it by a auto parts store and have them scan for codes, have the charging system checked. I would definitely, check the timing belt and marks! A timing issue, will bend the valves on the 1.8T; it is a interference engine and a head gasket, head job, isn't cheap!
I have a OBD2 scanner like autozone or oreillys have. But not vag or vcds. I Looked in Ebay and it's only showing the USBs. I did a live scan data before and battery power is okay. But the coolant temperature is high like it's in 200 plus degrees. Ordered an thermal switch and side coolant flange water outlet since I have a coolant leak coming out from the flange. I'm keeping in mind to change the power intermittent relay, MAF sensor, and coolant temperature sensor
 

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Ok, at this point; I would scan with whatever you have and see, if there are any trouble codes. Keep in mind, that if you have coolant leaks; the system, may not be able to work correctly; as the system, is normally under pressure and leaks, can contribute to higher then normal coolant temps or sometimes, overheating.

Again, I would use the scan tool; to monitor temps and then, you could use, a infrared temp gun, to check for actual temps, on various areas around the cooling system, especially right around the head, near the flange, coolant temp sensor. If you have a coolant leak and the cooling system is compromised; this, may not be a good time to check for "correct" cooling temps. A coolant temp sensor and a new oem thermostat; maybe, two other inexpensive, things to replace; when the coolant is drained out, when you replace the coolant flange off the head.

As we discussed before, a full drain; flush and full refill with distilled water, VW spec coolant, should finish things off, get you back to a normally functioning cooling system, assuming everything is working as it should. As long as you don't have any clogged components or hoses, your waterpump is ok, then you should be good to go. As noted before, when, you have the thermostat out; you can inspect the plastic impeller, see if it is cracked or spins on the shaft, it should be solid, without movement.

If you have coolant leaks and the engine, is potentially running hot, it may not be a good idea to drive it, until you repair the cooling system, as you could warp the head, when coolant gets or a air pocket develops inside the block, etc.
 

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There are many VW specific scan tools; VCDS by Ross Tech, is the top tier tool. Here is the link, to the real cable, software combo; from the ross tech site, many cables you see on amazon and ebay, are Chinese pirated knock offs. The cable and software; does, require the use of a usb port and the windows based pc, a laptop or subnote book, being the most popular choice, a windows based tablet it another option. One of the top features of VCDS; is that it is constantly being updated and the updates, are free, the program prompts you, every time there is a update and guides you through the update process, very easy, simple and hassle free, keeps everything up to date. Pro level scan tools; from Autel, Snapon, Mac, Matco, Autel, Bosch, etc.; can charge hundreds, to thousands of dollars, to keep the scanners updated and even then, eventually, they fall out of upgradability, support is eventually terminated and to keep up with things, they have to be replaced with newer hardware.

As a example, I bought VCDS in 2007; my cable, works with the latest software from Ross Tech, still works great and while they have newer cables available, mine is still functional and they offer a update discount for me, if I wanted to get the latest cable, which is faster and offers some enhaned, compatibility with later VW/Audi models. Having a pro level scan tool; that is still usable, after 14 years, was continually updated in all that time for FREE, is unheard of in the pro automotive repair industry. A mechanic, would probably, have upgraded; 3 to 5 times, to keep current with each wave of new cars, trucks, that kept coming out in that time. VCDS, is a solid, investment and it will always be easy to sell in the used market place (just look on ebay; to see, how much the genuine ross tech vcds, older cables sell for).


VCDS system requirements: this faq area, should answer any questions you might have:


There are other VW scan tools; OBDeleven, is a newer option, uses Android devices to run but has its problems, limitations, flakey support and essentially a work in progress, a "beta" product, at this pont.

There are many "VAG" Chinese handheld type scan tools, on ebay and amazon; most have limited to at times, nonexistent support, not always very user friendly and may not always work with the vehicle you are working.

At the end of the day; you get what you pay for, VCDS by Ross Tech; is sold, supported in the USA and is a very, mature product. It is the real deal and if you sell your VW's and don't need it anymore, you will have no problem, reselling it for close to what you paid for to being with.

PS: this also, will help you diagnose things correctly and save you money, by NOT buying and installing new parts, that may or may not need replaced or fix your current problems.

By the way, i just replaced my ecu relay; I got it at autozone under the duralast brand and it was a genuine vw part in the box with a lifetime warranty! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't have the VCDS yet, but I have the OBD2 scanner. When I checked with the OBD2, there were no issues. But when I did a live data test, coolant temperature was 200 or 221 degrees. Even billymade ( one of the member here) mentioned it was too high. I have a 5 speed manual. One shop did a diagnostic test and found that I have a coolant leak from side flange which I will change when the part arrive. It might also be the MAF sensor, and throttle body. Thank you for addressing your past issue with your car. I got it noted and will most likely change the coolant temperature sensor, and the thermal switch too. By the way, what is the exact part number for the intermittent relay?
I think I found the intermittent relay for the ECU. Just making sure it's the Relay 109 correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Over boost ,forces throttle body to close, Overheating will trigger light and alarm. Possibly shut the motor down. Check your vacuum lines and charge pipes for leaks.
The beetle is fully stock. How can I adjust if it's over boosting? It have the stock DV blow off valve. Chane the N75?
 
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