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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Adjust what? Are you getting any trouble codes?
What is the current problem you're having?

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I was wondering if I can adjust the boost but found out that the N75 is a electronic boost control valve or something. But anyways, I replaced my DV BOV, thermostat, flushed the old coolant out, top radiator with green mark on top that T, my coolant temperature switch, and coolant side flange and the beetle is running great. After changing all of that parts I was sprinting all the time for 1/2 hours driving around the city and the radiator fan didn't even kick in. Will change the radiator, coil packs, fuel pump, spark plugs, in the near future and timing. Thanks for all the help!! Will be back here if I come across another issue. Hopefully when I do, I'll have the VCD and Vag- com thing.
 

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The stock design of the turbo and boost control; is not adjustable, that is why people get tunes, etc.

The stock 710N diverter valve; does not ."blow off" anything to the atmosphere but as the name implies, diverts excess boost. The good quality oem valve; is made by Kayser.

Question, were you having any boost problems and did the new diverter valve, improve or solve anything?

You might get a elm 327 obd II dongle; use it with dashcommand and/or obd fusion, to observe live data, turbo boost, coolant temps, fuel trims, maf readings, etc. The elm327 bluetooth version, is for android and wifi for apple/ios. You will be able to check and clear basic obd II trouble codes with these apps as well.

 

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As to the cooling system; what type of coolant did you install (green?), vw spec or generic green stuff, etc, (?) and did you burp the cooling system and use a scan tool, to monitor, the cooling temps?

Overall, did the "jerking" ; issue go away? From what you-seem to be saying; things are running well or better, then before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
As to the cooling system; what type of coolant did you install (green?), vw spec or generic green stuff, etc, (?) and did you burp the cooling system and use a scan tool, to monitor, the cooling temps?

Overall, did the "jerking" ; issue go away? From what you-seem to be saying; things are running well or better, then before?
Pink coolant
 

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So, has the original dying issue; been resolved and what are the cooling temps, that you have seen, after the coolant flush, thermostat, coolant temp sensor and coolant flange replacements? Any more trouble codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So, has the original dying issue; been resolved and what are the cooling temps, that you have seen, after the coolant flush, thermostat, coolant temp sensor and coolant flange replacements? Any more trouble codes?
I'll check the temp coolant in a bit. The dying part is resolve for now. I will run her all day today and see what happens. When I did an inspection on the car, seems like the car was neglected by previews owner. Low steering wheel fluid which I topped up with CHF. Going to change the tranny fluid also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I checked the coolant temp and it stays at 200 - 205 max with the temperature of 78°F weather. The new thermostat opens at 192 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The fan kicks in at low mode whenever it needs to for like 30 seconds and stops. Everything are good right now so far!!😃
 

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Sounds good and the coolant temps, seem to be in the normal temp range; i believe the stock thermostat is rated at 185f. The fans kicking on; would indicate to me, that the thermostat has opened and the cooling system has burped, the air out of the engine. Good job! :)


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I was going about 65 mph on the highway when beetle choked, no acceleration, and died. Turn the key and came on again and it was okay. Anyone have a clue? Thank you.
check your fuel filter iam 2nd owner of 02 beetle got the same problem it was fuel filter clog up
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Sounds good and the coolant temps, seem to be in the normal temp range; i believe the stock thermostat is rated at 185f. The fans kicking on; would indicate to me, that the thermostat has opened and the cooling system has burped, the air out of the engine. Good job! :)


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Update:
I ran her yesterday and put 80 miles. Then a more problem occured...
This are the trouble codes:
P01297 Loosing Boost Pressure. ( Check DV)
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304. CEL is also illuminating on dash but not flashing. 🤯
 

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Well, it seems you still have some unresolved boost and misfire issues? Are these old codes or current; that were kicked on, specifically on your test drive? How is the car running; at this current time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well, it seems you still have some unresolved boost and misfire issues? Are these old codes or current; that were kicked on, specifically on your test drive? How is the car running; at this current time?

This are new codes that kicked in. The car is running okay even with misfires. RPM keeps jumping down from the last dot before 1000 rpm, and that's the lowest it'll go.I was able to run it couple blocks this morning to go to store real quick but not too far.
I will go over this links you sent me. Thanks a lot bud. In a meanwhile. Going to work on the Civic. Just ball joints issues.
 

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If you replaced the DV with Chinese junk then it is likely that it is not holding your boost or is stuck open, intermittently from inferior material used during production or half assed quality control in the sweat shop in China producing them. Quite possible that you received a faulty DV. Do yourself a huge favor and purchase a Genuine Forge 007,008 DV. If you are getting boost surges (fluctuations of power/no power) replace the N75. With these cars being the age they are, one must be comfortable or almost enjoy lighting crisp $100 bills afire, as they will have many “soft failures” from control valves and sensors and solenoids, having failed but still performing their given task at the very minimum requirement to keep the ECU happy , as this happens occasionally they will dip into the red and illuminate the CEL also giving you a code or codes. But before loading the “parts cannon”and practicing my favorite VW owners past time, burning those C-Notes! Replacing them all at once is upwards of $1300 USD! This I just did when rebuilding and upgrading my beetle. Get a Bentley manual, identify the section of harness that supplies all these components, I suspect they are all on same “branch” of the harness. Firstly perform a continuity test on your electrical wiring harness that provides voltage and grounding to all the “failed or failing” components that are indicated by the codes from your latest scan. One broken,frayed or weak (almost broken wire) or positive wire arcing on nearby metal can trigger a lot of codes at once, a detailed visual inspection and continuity test of wiring to the coil packs, injectors, N75, MAF etc. will likely reveal the issue. Also battery voltage drops can cause voltage latency hiccups in the fuel injector(s) delivery of fuel causing actual misfires. Everything that you are saying is leading me to believe it is an electrical signal to or from the ECU not reaching its destination. Causing all the codes, due to missing or invalid signal input(s). From a bad wire or fuse or relay. I am wishing you all the best of luck in your coming journey (you’ll need it) chasing electrical gremlins out of VW’s is tedious and time consuming and contrary to my light hearted sarcasm (fav past time)it is beyond frustrating, even after successful “hunts” resolving many issues over the last 3 years . I don’t wish this on anyone. Best left to a trusted professional VAG specialist.
 
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