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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I changed out the timing belt and components on my 2.0L 2002 Beetle. Rusted and striped bolts made it a job and a half but I got it done and I am pretty confident in my timing I TDCd the engine with a tool so I'm sure its right on the money, I triple checked that the cam gear was in line with its timing mark, and I counted and matched the teeth on the belt. But when I put it all back together I found my self with a new problem. When I start the beetle it fires for but a second or two and then instantly dies. I did changed the plugs while I was under the manifold (My fat fingers had a hard time puting in the TDC tool with out taking off the intake). When I hand crank the engine when I get to a certain point I hear air coming from somewhere under the intake. So my thought it maybe a loose plug or injector. But I am not a expert nor a car guy. Just broke and can't afford a mechanic. So sine it is to dark and cold out to keep messing with it tonight I figured I would put the issue out there to see what yalls suggestions or thoughts are
 

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Basics, ignition spark, fuel pressure and compression. Have you scanned for trouble codes and is the immobilizer light flashing in the speedo cluster (this would indicate the immo is kicking on; which kills the ignition spark, after a couple of seconds)? It is not uncommon, to hook up the gas lines backwards after repairs and this can cause a no start condition. Let us know, what you find; report back and we can go from there, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi all,

Thanks for the replies. I got out here today a d started messing with it. I dont see anything that is unhooked. I do have the intake unbolted so i can get to the plugs and injectors while checking everything. Would that cuase any issues?

I checked and when i try to start it the immobilizer light is soild not flashing. I still went ahead with what i think is called a cold reset? Where i turn the key to on and short the postive and negative wires together. Still no change

I dont know if this info helps any or nkt but sometimes when trying to start it when the engine fires for that second when it dies i will hear a pop sound from the engine. Almost like a toned down back fire
 

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Most auto parts stores; have obd II scan tools, that you can rent for free. Consider investing in a vw factory level scan tool, to bring sanity to you diagnostic, troubleshooting and repair process. VCDS by Ross Tech $199, OBDEleven $65 for basic version, $100 for pro and then, there are many "VAG" scanners on Amazon (vcds and OBDEleven being the most popular). Having your own VW specific scan tool; can save you thousands in repair costs and enable you, to take control of your repair process. This can finally eliminate being stranded, unable to scan for trouble codes and having to borrow a scanner or have the car towed to a pro auto shop for repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update:

So i just checked the fuel system (no clue of i did this right) but i hooked up a fuel presure guage to the in hose going into the fuel rail and got 10+psi when turing over the engine. (Guage only goes to 10 psi and it looked to be maxed) when i have the in hose hooked up to the rail and the guage hooked up to the out side or even just have nothing connected to the out side i get no presure and no fuel comeing out when turning over the engine. I pulled the rail out enough to have all four injectors out and visable and i turned over then egine and cam confirm fuel is comeing out of all four. Does this testing seem to rule out a fuel issue? I am about to start checking spark. And then compression and then i will check that thortal body thing. I just saw a member posted a video on that.

I also ran to the store and got a code reader. The only code present was misfire on cyilnder 2. Will unhooking the battery clear codes? Becuase if it does that would confirm this is a new code that happened while working on this beetle. In any case i cleared the could and rescan anytime i check or chnage something to see if anything pops up
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Another common issue, is when the battery is disconnected; the throttle body will lose it adaptation settings:

After towing the beetle to the house a month ago i ended up accidentally left the accessory power on so the battery was dead for about a month untill i iust put a brand new battery in. So that very well could be the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The suns gone down now so that wraps me up for the day. I ended up buying the wrong inline tester so i couldnt get it on the plugs to test spark but i did start checking compression. I got through cylinder 1 and 2 before the sun beat me. Cylinder 1 was about 144 after cranking twice holding yhe key for 4 revs each time. Cyilnder 2 was about 124. Ill update tommrow before i go to work if im able to check anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've been doing some more googleing and digging around on this fourm, you guys are awesome! Theres a treasure trope of info on here, i've come to the conclusion that it really seems to be the thortal body being out of wack due to the battery dieing while the beetle was sitting waiting for me to do the timeing belt. Let me list out why i think everything is pointing to the thortal body needing a TBA and you all let me know if you think i'm on the right track here.

The battery sat dead for about a month from what im reading the TB losesing its i guess calibration when the battery runs dead

When i turn the key to ON the EPC light is on and stays on.

The car ran fine right up untill i decided to change the timeing belt. It never failed on jumped time. The only reason i stoped driving it until i got the timeing belt done was becuase the water pump seal failed. The car still ran when i jacked it up in the driveway. I just towed ot from where i discovered the leak out of fear of if the water pump failed on the way home the jump in time would wreck my engine

I havene finshed checking all the basics yet but so far everything seems to be working as far as fuel, spark, air, and compression.

The engine will fire and sounds ok it just dies a second after fireing

From what i am reading I have a AEG which i found one post that said AEGs are bad for not starting until a TBA is done

Like i said in the orginal post i am not a car guy. So figureing all of this out is new to me. So i may be barking up the wrong tree entirety here. My plan assuming no one thinks im way off here is to get a 3rd party cable and a paid VCDS lite licences from ross tech this week and doing a TBA. In the mean time im going to finsh checking spark and compression in between work shifts, anything else yall would recomend i check while i wait on the cable to arive?
 

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The battery sat dead for about a month from what im reading the TB losesing its i guess calibration when the battery runs dead
Yes, you definitely will need to do a throttle body adaption. It happened to me with just an interior light left on overnight pulling the battery down enough to need the adaption.
 

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A registered version of VCDS Lite with a generic knockoff cable; can do some things like a tba with a non can bus vehicle but it has limitations, compared to a genuine toss tech cable with full capability/version of vcds ($99 for lite and $199 for full version/genuine ross tech cable):


 

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The third party cables are chinese hacked cables and I absolutely hate rewarding criminal behavior in this case the theft of intellectual property. Go with the ross tech original you won't regret it.
 

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I have a 1978 VW Bus as well as a 2009 VW NB. I was working on my Bus and when I tried to start it, the engine fired for about 2 seconds and quit. I had accidentally knocked off a vacuum hose deep in the engine bay. It took a couple of days of chatting with the guys on the Bay Window Bus forum before someone suggested I had missed a vacuum hose. When I got a brighter flash light and looked more thoroughly I found it. I hooked the hose up, fired up the engine and have been cruising since. About 5 months ago. Never under estimate the ability of a vacuum hose to ruin your day.😎
 

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Do you have another key?
Sounds like what happens when your key isn't coded. Fob remote can still work but that doesn't garuntee it will run. Just throwing it out there... Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The beetle is now running, thanks you all for all of your help. The issue was part TBA part me being a idoit. I have learned 3 things from this experience 1) TBA are a fact of my life now if that battery ever dies again. 2) this fourm is an amazing resource full of awesomely helpful people. 3) cara don't f**king run until you put the intake manifold back on... that makes total sense as to why it wouldn't run with out one...I'm just an idoit who never thought about it until 5 min ago. Once I bolted the intake on and redid the TBA...it fired right up. I have a scrapeing sound near the serpentine and timing belt I'm going to track down tomorrow. But at least now I know I have a running beetle again
 
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