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Oh boy - surprise surprise...yet another problem with my 2002 lemon of a New Beetle :( You all don't need to hear my traumatic experience with my first car - but this is something I can't solve.

Filled up with gas last night, synthetic oil put in June this year, <63,000 miles on the car. Automatic and new tires and I'm nice to it.

So I drove it somewhere 45 min away this morning. It started raining a little (in TEXAS OMG). Drove home. Got some stuff from the house, went back out to the car and it started and then sounded like it turned off immediately. Tried it again - did the same thing. Tried again giving gas, made a nasty grinding noise. Tried several times. Only light I get is the battery which is stupid because it's starting and lights all work.

Checked oil - low on oil. Added more synthetic oil. Tried again - no cigar.

Tried another key because of the chip sensor issue - no cigar.

Any takers? I see something about the cam or crankshaft sensor? I'm partially clueless when it comes to that stuff and there's no mechanics in the area. I would rather try to fix it myself before work at 8am on Monday. I'm about to go buy a Code Reader so I can solve the issue.

Any ideas? I'm desperate...instructions would be great too. Thank you all.
 

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Try a Battery jesus. This is where you disconnect the battery cables and touch them together for 10 seconds and then hook the battery back up. In some cases where the Immobilizer gets screwy, this can help... it cost you nothing to try.

Would be nice to see if there are any fault codes flagged in the ECM and Instrument Cluster. I wonder if there is a 01176 code stored in the instrument cluster:

01176 - Ross-Tech Wiki
 

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Check your battery connections, make sure they are not lose. Check the fuse block on top of battery, make sure nothing is melting and connctions are good. Check the black cable connected to altinator, make sure not lose. Check to see if surpentine belt is not broke. The battery light is not for the battery, it comes on when there is something wrong with the charging system( altinator )
 

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... Tried again giving gas, made a nasty grinding noise. Tried several times...
Are you sure timing belt is alright and that noise is not p2v collision? Your car is 10 yrs old. I replaced mine last weekend and it had really noticeable cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you for the responses.

Timing belt should have been replaced when they replaced the water pump at 30k when it went out. My AC has been squealing but that stopped - I will check the serpentine belt as I have been concerned about that.

OBD II Code P0321 showed up. Speed Sensor on the engine according to Google. Anyone have this experience? I have someone who can look the code up specifically for my make and model vehicle when he is home later. Sensor is $50 and sounds easy to change. Has anyone had any experience changing it?

EDIT: Just checked serpentine - it's OK. Checked battery connections earlier as I connected my trickle charger for a bit.
 

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Timing belts should have been replaced when they replaced the water pump. My AC has been squealing but that stopped - I will check the serpentine belt as I have been concerned about that.

OBD II Code P0321 showed up. Speed Sensor on the engine according to Google. Anyone have this experience? I have someone who can look the code up specifically for my make and model vehicle when he is home later. Sensor is $50 and sounds easy to change. Had anyone had any experience changing it?
When was WP done? Improper tension may result in tooth jump. I'm not sure if this will result in another code for crankshaft position sender other than P0321. I may be wrong here.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When was WP done? Improper tension may result in tooth jump. I'm not sure if this will result in another code for crankshaft position sender other than P0321. I may be wrong here.
Around 30k miles, which was around Fall 2007. I'm not familiar with all the components, how can I check the timing belt?

Also, I think I read online that the speed sensor on the engine is next to the oil filter and it's grey? Is this true?
 

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According to my book, PO321 speed sensor, faulty signal. The fuel system will not operate if the ECM does not recieve a speed sensor input. Yes it is located on the side of the engine near the oil filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
According to my book, PO321 speed sensor, faulty signal. The fuel system will not operate if the ECM does not recieve a speed sensor input.
OK at least that is a somewhat simple solution. Thank you. The issue is A) I can't get the part until Wednesday and B) I'm a novice when it comes to parts. I'm learning, but I'm no mechanic - but I can't screw it up much more than it's already screwed because it won't even move. SO I am prepared to attempt it and worst case scenario someone else puts it on if I can't. Could anyone point me to directions for this or a site with pictures or provide any info of your own on how to change the engine speed sensor? THANK YOU ALL. You guys have been a great help.
 

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Once you find it, disconnect the electical connector, remove the sensor mounting bolt, remove the sensor put on new O ring on new sensor, use some grease or motor oil to lub it. Install in reverse order
 

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One of mine had the same problem the codes cleared and new part is sat on the shelf waiting to be fitted but it's run fine for a month or more so maybe you'll be fine for a couple of days until the part arrives :)

Kate
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well the guy at Advance suggested disconnecting the battery for 45 min to restart the computer and see if that helped. I would at least try it but it's raining (boo, FINALLY the one day it shouldn't it's raining in Texas).
 

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The codes needed a battery disconnect to clear them, the code reader the AA (UK AAA) had wouldn't clear them but you only need the battery disconnected for a moment not 45 mins! lol I love people at car parts places with no clue! I had a service advisor & a 'mechanic' manage to get 0w20 in my bug in Nevada without thinking there was anything wrong...

K
 

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The code points to the crank sensor, I don't have the info as to what the code was on mine as it was my UK bug that had the fault and we are in the US (this one needs a secondary air pump, good job I love my bugs!) right now but I'm 99% sure that the part I linked to is the one you need to sort that fault, mine was ordered from our local parts guys (we run a garage so have good contacts) from my VIN and that is what was sent :)

Kate
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well that part is $15 vs the speed sensor which is $50 - so maybe I could try it? How did you do it? Where is it?

Thank you so much for your help. Ironically my name is Katherine and I go by Kat so I find it amusing we both have Bugs and are having the same issue!
 

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Errmmm well... I kinda left it with some suspension & new brakes to be fitted by our workshop while we are away!! lol If you search on here then there is a 'how to' I'm sure I've seen one here when I was thinking about doing it myself!

And it's my blue bug too that has this problem! (He's called Cookie Monster!)

K
 

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All that said, what is happening is exactly what happens with an Immobilizer III key chip read failure. This identical problem was running on here a week or two ago. Didn't read the resolve. There may have been on posted. Advanced thread search "immobilizer III" or "immobilizer". Just saying.

MORAV
 
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