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15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, help please! I found my wife's new beetle(2006 2.5L automatic tranny)'s oil pan is rusted out. It's starting to seep a tiny little bit of oil but no big leaks so far. Out of precaution, I ordered a brand new compatible oil pan kit from Amazon (around $60). The swap was quite easy, with the only hard part was the old oil pan won't come off until I use a pry bar and pried from a corner. When I removed the old oil pan, I tried to find a sealing gasket but couldn't. So I just went ahead and put the new oil pan on. It fits perfectly and all the holes are aligned up perfectly. I tried to get all screws very tight(about 50ft/lbs). Then when I added fresh oil, I found out the oil is seeping through the crevice between the new oil pan and the engine. Tried to tighten the oil pan bolts more. No use. After a day, checked oil level and found it low(and there's a lot of oil on the pavement). Then went to autozone and bought a bottle of motor honey which is supposed to seal off the leaks. Pour it in with some more fresh oil, then drove the car around, still leaking. As I understand there's a tube sucking all the oil in the oil pan into the engine's compartment when the engine is running, and since the oil pan can hold maybe 3 quarts of oil, there will always be oil spraying into the cylinders when it's running. HOwever I don't like to run oil low, and the only way to prevent that is to pour like a quart of oil into the engine each time I run the car. This is not only becoming expensive(we only use full synthetic mobil one), but also leaves more and more oil on our drive way which is annoying at least.

So is there any solution to this? This car is long out of warranty but we still want to keep it. Is there like a gasket I can get some somewhere(didn't call our local dealer due to a lot of bad experience in the past)? Or is there a sealant I can use to seal the oil pan from outside? Thanks for any input! Help please!

15,841 Posts
Well, first of all Volkswagen, does NOT use gaskets on their oil pans but they specify, a special sealant. Until you get the oil pan sealed properly; you will not be able to fix the oil leaks, no matter what you do.

You can get this special Silicon sealing compound (in the place of a traditional rubber or cork gasket); through your vw dealer but it is expensive. A German gasket company: Victor Reinz, makes it and it is cheaper than through Volkswagen. It should be available at most auto parts stores; like Autozone.

Victor Reinz part #: 70-31414-10 REINZOSIL
Gasket, wet sump

Engine Code: BPR
Engine Code: BPS
Version: Dichtmasse
Contents: 70 ml, Material: Silicone, Chemical Properties: hardening, not solvent-bearing, Permanently elastic, Temperature range from: -50 °C to temperature range: 300 °C, Colour: Anthracite

Technical data sheet:



I would:

1. Drain the oil; Remove the oil pan
a. Clean all the mating surfaces and the fasteners.
b. Inspect the engine mating surfaces and make sure, there wasn't any damage, from using the pry bar, when you removed the old oil pan.

2. Apply the Silicon sealing compound to the oil pan; according to the Volkswagen service manual and manufacturer's instructions on the tube of sealer.

3. Tighten all the bolts in a criss cross pattern, hand tight and then to factory torque specs with a torque wrench.
a. The torque specs are: 7FT-LBS or 84 INCH-LBS.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

712 Posts
I believe the torque for the bolts is 7 ft-lbs on the 2.5 engine. (My diesel ALH engine is 11 ft-lbs). 2mm sealant bead on both clean surfaces. VW sealant from dealer or permatex ultra black. Billymade ha already outlined why you need to do. Good luck and keep us posted.

15,841 Posts
Here is a diy that walks you through the replacement process:

VWVortex.com - Has anyone replaced the oil pan and pickup tube?

For future reference:



Technical Data Sheet 833
Edition: 04/2014, supersedes all prior editions.
Please see the latest issue at www.victorreinz.com/jsi-datasheet
Material Anthracite coloured, solvent-free sealing, adhesive & coating compound
based on silicone. Once completely bonded, REINZOSIL is virtually

Properties This highly elastic universal sealing compound is resistant to mineral oils
and numerous synthetic oils, lubricants, petrol, diesel oil, greases, hot
and cold water, detergents, sunlight, ozone, and sea water.
REINZOSIL is suitable for continuous operation in the temperature
range between -50 °C and +250 °C (briefly up to 300 °C).
Hardness (softness) lies in the range of 30 to 35 Shore A.

Application Due to its special properties, REINZOSIL is used in the most varied
applications, e.g. as FIPG (formed-in-place gasket) for wet assembly, i.e.
for sealing small gaps under pressure as well as for cylinder liners in
piston machines, and also to compensate for extensive component
warping. Moreover, the compound is also used to seal constructional
fissures or cracks, and for seals that are subjected to considerable
relative movement.

Contrary to REINZOPLAST, the sealing layer is destroyed during
disassembly, and a new coating is required after the surfaces have been

The compound can also be applied to assembled components. In these
cases, after the sealing joint has been cleaned and degreased,
REINZOSIL is applied directly to the sealing gap, similar to the
procedures used in the building industry.

Instructions for use

Remove any gasket remnants or other residues such as grease, oil, etc.
with RE-MOVE solvent remover. Allow the surfaces to dry, then apply
the sealing compound on one side manually or by means of a pneumatic
spraying device. Assemble the components immediately.

Processing temperature lies between +5 °C and +40 °C. Depending on
temperature and humidity, a skin develops after 5 to 12 minutes. The full
curing time depends mainly on the relative air humidity (RH) and room
temperature, as well as on the thickness (gap height) and width of the
applied layer.

The following applies:
The higher that air humidity and temperature are, or the thinner and
narrower the sealing layer is, the shorter will the curing time be. With a
layer or gap width of e.g. 7 mm, and a thickness or gap height of 1,5 mm
at 40 °C and 90 % RH, the full curing time is about 9 hours, provided
that temperature and humidity have access to both sides. With the
above sealing gap dimensions, but at normal ambient conditions

(approx. 23 °C and 50 % RH), curing time would be about 100 hours.
Fully cured (vulcanized) material can only be removed mechanically.
Caution! Irritation of the respiratory tracts!
Ensure good room ventilation.


15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Many thanks to billymade. the oil pan leak has been successfully fixed after I bought the gasket billymade mentioned. It does not leak even one drop of oil now. Thanks.
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