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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Evening All

New to the Forum - great site by the way :)

My Mrs has a 2005 Cab Tdi, which has been a top motor, however, can't get the bloody boot lid to operate ...

the problem then, the release button in the door pocket and the middle button on the key fob do not work the actuator, so I pulled the manual override red plastic cord to open the lid manually from the inside, removed the plastic cover which revealed a broken wire – Happy days, nice and easy I thought, remade a connection ….



… but still no joy.
To test the actuator, I put a direct 12v to the positive side of the actuator and it worked, so my problem seems to not be in the boot itself.
I have checked all the fuses, no problem there, so going to start on the relays …

This gets more frustrating, been to a main dealer today, they could not shed any light on it and just said it had to be plugged in …
I found a Haynes manual, couldn’t mind any relay for this operation. I took the switch out the door to check wires here, operating the switch I can hear a faint click from under the dash, so I assume from this its not the switch.

So there we have it, I'm now Stuck, I hate to have to admit defeat , but run out of ideas now ....


p.s. I did lots of searching on this Forum, but couldn't find anything near to this, but apologise in advance if this has been done before
 

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Did you ever find what was causing your problem? I am now suffering a very similar problem. The trunk lid worked fine yesterday, but today it will not close (slam shut and the latch won't engage) and when I use the door trunk release button I hear a clicking but not sound from the trunk door at all.

I too can't find any fuses that would explain it and am confused why the lid won't latch AND the release not actuate either.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hiya

Still no joy here, I have stripped the loom back and been wiggling wires about to try get this to work, but blower if I can find it.

I'm still hoping a reset of fault codes may help ... But most unlikely.

My search continues ...
 

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I'm going to have a quick look in the Bentley for you.

MORAV
 

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MattMan
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Fixed mine

Dudes,

Wife got home lil while ago and said trunk wont shut. No action whatsoever with the remote or key in the lock except the interior light would come on. Also the latch would close easy but would not lock. Saw Jimbo's pic and took the trunk interior trim down and noticed the white actuator was bulging and coming apart. I kept squeezing it and it finally went together and then it released(unlocked). Pushed latch closed with my hand and then hit the trunk button and the unlock action was a harsh (normal) whack and the actuator bulged again. I grabbed a couple tie wraps and kinda criss-crossed them on the actuator. Works good. I think the quick whack was becuase no restriction from the lower latch. I think your problems may be inside the actuator itself.
Matt
 

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I have the same problem as Jimbo. The trunk will not open with either the key fob or the door switch. After manually opening the trunk from the inside, I poked around and found the following:

- The trunk actuator works fine mechanically and if you put direct 12v to it.
- The trunk actuator is getting only 3v through the wiring. This is the same whether I use the key fob or door switch.
- The door switch mechanism is getting 12v power to it.

So the problem is that the actuator is not getting full voltage. I took apart the switch mechanism at the door, and couldn't fully understand the wiring. It would help if someone could provide the wiring diagram for the door switch, and better if I could get the schematic all the way to the trunk.

The only other thought is that there must be a short somewhere. I tried checking the wiring at the trunk hinge, but that seems to be a lot of work and I stopped there.
 

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Hi I am having the same problem on my vw beetle 2010 ..my boot will not open using the remote or door switch , no sound or whirring is heard
I have taken th e black plastic cover off and removed the actuator and tried a new one on eBay and hope I had fixed the problem but no joy !
I don’t think it the fuse as the interior boot light is on
Weirdly the indicator light flashes when I press and hold the remote when the actuator is disconnectedIncomplete Pass but doesn’t flash when I connect the actuator .....is this a wiring issue ? Thanks
 

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Hi I am having the same problem on my vw beetle 2010 ..my boot will not open using the remote or door switch , no sound or whirring is heard
I have taken th e black plastic cover off and removed the actuator and tried a new one on eBay and hope I had fixed the problem but no joy !
I don’t think it the fuse as the interior boot light is on
Weirdly the indicator light flashes when I press and hold the remote when the actuator is disconnectedIncomplete Pass but doesn’t flash when I connect the actuator .....is this a wiring issue ? Thanks
Hi, did you ever fix this problem. I have got a 2010 beetle and it does'nt have any power to the actuator. Thanks Peter
 

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Hi, did you ever fix this problem. I have got a 2010 beetle and it does'nt have any power to the actuator. Thanks Peter
My turn now... did you ever find a fix to this? Same issue for me on 2008 Beetle Cabriolet. I’ve checked wiring (visually) but not sure where else to go.
 

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My turn now... did you ever find a fix to this? Same issue for me on 2008 Beetle Cabriolet. I’ve checked wiring (visually) but not sure where else to go.
Obviously the first thing to check is the fuse to see if it's good. I'm not sure if there is a relay associated with this too, but if there is, I'd check that second. Last is digging into the actual wiring.

Wiring problems are a pain to track down. It's usually not enough to visually inspect the wires. They need to be tested to see what's getting power and what isn't. Wiring diagrams usually help with this.
 

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Obviously the first thing to check is the fuse to see if it's good. I'm not sure if there is a relay associated with this too, but if there is, I'd check that second. Last is digging into the actual wiring.

Wiring problems are a pain to track down. It's usually not enough to visually inspect the wires. They need to be tested to see what's getting power and what isn't. Wiring diagrams usually help with this.
Thanks. I didn’t actually expect anyone to reply when I’ve just dropped in unannounced, so I appreciate that!

I checked the fuses first. I then checked the wires with a multimeter from boot to hatch and 2 were not complete circuits, so I ended up removing the wiring harness and found 2 breaks. I replaced the wiring fully, using 4x 14 amp wires in a thick sheaf (To try and prevent further breakages), and connected with bullets and crimping in the boot near where the harness ends and in the hatch before the wires split to the hatch break light, actuator and the latch, and all now test positively for being complete circuits. Yet, there is no voltage being read in the wire to the actuator when I press my fob boot release button, or the button on drivers side. I get a small voltage in the black/brown wire to the latch.

I checked for voltage again at the harness connector in the boot and it’s the same, only small voltage to brown/black wire at this point too, so I can assume it’s not the wiring in the hatch anymore. I think?

I rechecked fuses after the rewire.

weirdly, now my boot open dash light stays lit, even though it’s closed.

Oh, I checked the valet parking lock, it’s not that. So I’m guessing I need to work up the car now, as if no voltage is getting to latch/actuator, it doesn’t seem worth replacing these at this stage.

I have failed in trying to find a wiring diagram online but I’m still trying...
 
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