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mike03 2.0 vert
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Discussion Starter #1
Myra just blew the bottom radiator hose off and here is a pic.
Should I try to get a new "O" ring for the connection or buy a new plastic adaptor with the drain piece complete?
 

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The part in the picture seems to be OK. The wire part that wraps around it is supposed to catch on tabs on the radiator outlet. You should make sure the radiator outlet is in good shape. There must be a reason it came free. Has the hose been replaced recently? Maybe the connector wasn't seated fully when it was put back on.
 

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mike03 2.0 vert
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Discussion Starter #3
assembly

Red99: The radiator fitting looks good. Its our first really hot day. New fans that work are installed, new water pump also.
I think we will replace the temp sensor while the coolant is being changed.
Should we try to get just a "O" ring or replace the connection/drain fitting? Thanks, Mike03
 

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Just the o-ring is fine. You need to figure out why it was able to slip off the radiator, though. Is there something broken, or was it just not installed properly?
 

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mike03 2.0 vert
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Discussion Starter #5
investigation

Yes, an investigation is under order, NB is grounded until I can find out why it got hot. The new temp sensor has been installed. So, will the fans run and why did the radiator connection blow off are high priority. As I remember there is another sensor above the bottom hose, what is its function? Thanks, Mike03
 

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mike03 2.0 vert
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Discussion Starter #7
still stumped

Starting again from the top. Note: Myra has new radiator fans and a new water pump just three months ago.

Myra came off the expressway and came to a light where she got beeped and flashed hot whle waiting for the light. Thru the light and shut her off. Towed home.
So, bottom hose had blown off...The PO had replaced the thermostat and could have loosened the fitting for the connection. My inspection of the radiator outlet and the groove for the metal wire yielded nothing out of order. I have bought a new O ring and reinstalled the hose.
I bought a new green temp sensor and it is installed.

I have printed the A4 Coolant Faqn testing Manual.
All fuses test good, I pulled S180 and cleaned the socket.
The fans come on to low speed with the AC turned on.
The connector for the thermaswitch was removed and jumpered
pins 1 & 2....low speed on the radiator fans was achieved.
Again pins 2 & 3 and high speed came on.
everything back together and with the engine running the fans do not come on after the engine has warmed and we waited, waited, no fans, not low or high.
The thermoswitch has now been replaced.
Still no fans after running the engine and Idling, we do have heat. The engine hot light does not come on, but the hose is really hot and the reservoir is bubbling.
So, at this point, do I buy a fan controler?
Is it under the dash? Who sell them?
Could it be the block sensor? I can't find it?
Thanks in advance, I am stumped.
 

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I believe your fan controller is OK. When you jumpered the pins on the thermoswitch connector the fans worked. The controller comes after the thermoswitch in the circuit.

The bubbling in the reservoir could indicate a weak head gasket. Air getting into the cooling system in combination with a plugged hose going from the cylinder head through the throttle body to the reservoir can allow air to build up in the cooling system and prevent coolant flow in the radiator. See this thread:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-0-lit...ease-solve-my-overheating-engine-problem.html

It seems to me you don't have flow through the radiator and that is the reason the fans don't come on. Without flow into the radiator the thermoswitch won't get hot enough to turn the fans on.

If you can, monitor the cooling system temperature with a scan tool. This is the best way to determine if the engine is hot enough where the fans should come on.

The fan controller is located near the thermoswitch under the battery tray. There is no temperature sensor on the engine block.
 

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mike03 2.0 vert
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
cooling problem

We were working on the NB all weekend to correct the no flow problem.
Testing thru the radiator with a garden hose, top hose filling and bottom hose removed from the bottom of the radiator. Water flowed fully with no backup.
The air filter was removed to gain access to the small hoses at the throttle body. Again the flow of water from the bottle hose thru the throttle body and out seemed to be non plugged and full flowing.
We replaced the plastic heart fitting and found the outlet to the transmission heat exchanger(think that is what it is) plugged. The entire inside of the assemble had scale build up.
Pictures of of this fitting.
The thermostat was removed and boiled, it opens. Not an easy task. I put a mirror in the opening and saw the nut and some blades of the water pump. Not a very good view. I could not reach the blades with my hand as others have done. The cnnection pipe for the hse here had some build up, more than what I would think reasonable.
Running the car, I observe: Hoses at the enging get hot near the engine only. At the radiator they are still cold. The bottom hose gets hot near the thermostat but not at the radiator bottom connection. Fans without a signal of heat still fail to run.
We are running with water only at this time.
The car ran hot with the red dash light flashing, still cold bottom hose at the radiator bottom.
The engine has a chirp............:(
I will get a VAG real time program, I have to have a connector as well.

The flow back to the fill container is weak, a small stream.
We do have cabin heat.

I am thinking too many things to make a judgement of the guilty part.
Thanks in advance......Mike03

Actually, I have to add, I am learning about the car.
The pic of the hose to the brake booster if clear would show a crack and potential problem. Looking for a miss, it might be here.
 

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You said that the water pump was replaced 3 months ago. Where did you have it replaced? What is the history of the car? How long have you owned it and have you had any other cooling-related problems? Have you always used VW G12 coolant?

I believe that I heard that there is an identical water pump to the one in the 2.0 except that is designed to turn in the opposite direction. Apparently some other engine used the same pump but a different belt arrangement. Maybe you got the wrong pump in there and it hasn't caused problems until the weather warmed up.

A suggestion for filling the cooling system: remove the topmost hose to the heater from the cooling flange when filling the system. Once the water level reaches the flange replace the hose. This will allow the air to escape as the system is filled. If you have it filled with water now, you could crack the connection (with the engine cold) to see if you can burp any air out.
 

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mike03 2.0 vert
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Discussion Starter #12
You said that the water pump was replaced 3 months ago. Where did you have it replaced? What is the history of the car? How long have you owned it and have you had any other cooling-related problems? Have you always used VW G12 coolant?

I believe that I heard that there is an identical water pump to the one in the 2.0 except that is designed to turn in the opposite direction. Apparently some other engine used the same pump but a different belt arrangement. Maybe you got the wrong pump in there and it hasn't caused problems until the weather warmed up.

A suggestion for filling the cooling system: remove the topmost hose to the heater from the cooling flange when filling the system. Once the water level reaches the flange replace the hose. This will allow the air to escape as the system is filled. If you have it filled with water now, you could crack the connection (with the engine cold) to see if you can burp any air out.
We purchased the car in November with 78.000 miles on it. The car cad cooling problems at the time of purchase. The PO had replaced the thermostat but the fans did not run. We bought fans from Indytom and they worked A1. Still overheated and we did the timing belt along with a new water pump from NAPA. The old impeller was in two halves. The egine code is BDC 2.0.......Yes to your question of G12, we use it, just not prepared to install untill we are stable.

By flange for filling are you saying the upper radiator hose?
Also, I am ready to replace the water pump, please suggest a link to purchase. I am interested in the water flow, the pump I think pulls water from the thermosat...Yes?

Glad to hear that the red flashing dash light is low coolant, we didn't have the bottle cap full tight and yes, it boiled out.
Thank......Mike03
 

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Coolant flange is the proper name for the "plastic heart fitting." I'm suggesting using the heater hose that starts there as an air bleed.

The coolant flow pattern is in through the lower radiator hose and the thermostat to the pump, from there into the block and then up to the cylinder head, out through the coolant flange and to the upper radiator hose.

The water pump from NAPA should be OK. Do you have a record of the part number that you bought? You could double-check the application for it and make sure you got the right one.

You mention boiling in the coolant reservoir. There really shouldn't be bubbles coming out there. Do you see an unusual amount of steam in the exhaust when the boiling happens? It is possible you have a blown cylinder head gasket that keeps air in the system and doesn't allow coolant to flow out into the upper radiator hose.
 

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mike03 2.0 vert
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Coolant flange is the proper name for the "plastic heart fitting." I'm suggesting using the heater hose that starts there as an air bleed.

The coolant flow pattern is in through the lower radiator hose and the thermostat to the pump, from there into the block and then up to the cylinder head, out through the coolant flange and to the upper radiator hose.

The water pump from NAPA should be OK. Do you have a record of the part number that you bought? You could double-check the application for it and make sure you got the right one.

You mention boiling in the coolant reservoir. There really shouldn't be bubbles coming out there. Do you see an unusual amount of steam in the exhaust when the boiling happens? It is possible you have a blown cylinder head gasket that keeps air in the system and doesn't allow coolant to flow out into the upper radiator hose.
Thanks for comfirming the water flow direction, I will double check the pump with NAPA for fitment, we have the receipt.

We ran the car Sat. night with the cap off for 15 min. and it never got hot past the near part of the hoses, also, no bubbles. Today the cap was in place but not tight, we ran around the park here several times and like in overheated, vented at the untight cap and overflowed. There has been no tail pipe signal as of yet. My other car blew a head gasket and had the bubles of a party. I will continue to monitor this possibility.
 

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The recommended procedure for filling the cooling system is to fill to the mark on the overflow tank, put the cap on tight, idle the engine until the level is a the bottom of the overflow tank, shut off the engine and cool as needed to remove the cap, refill and repeat until the level holds.

Running just water may make the cooling system behave a little different than normal since it will boil at a much lower temperature, around the point where the cooling fans should be kicking on if you don't have the cap on. With the cap on the extra pressure will raise the boiling point some, so that would be preferred. Just be real careful to cool the engine before you remove the cap or the water will begin to boil as the pressure is released.
 

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mike03 2.0 vert
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Discussion Starter #16
cooling system

The recommended procedure for filling the cooling system is to fill to the mark on the overflow tank, put the cap on tight, idle the engine until the level is a the bottom of the overflow tank, shut off the engine and cool as needed to remove the cap, refill and repeat until the level holds.

Running just water may make the cooling system behave a little different than normal since it will boil at a much lower temperature, around the point where the cooling fans should be kicking on if you don't have the cap on. With the cap on the extra pressure will raise the boiling point some, so that would be preferred. Just be real careful to cool the engine before you remove the cap or the water will begin to boil as the pressure is released.
Yes, I really do appreciate the extra "how to", I am a rookie.
Atached is the NAPA pump I installed. I went to the ECS Tuning site and the blades look the same, but could there be any distance from the O ring that would let it cavitate.
 

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mike03 2.0 vert
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Discussion Starter #17
bottom radiator hose HOT!

We gave the cooling battle one more try tonight. We filled thru the coolant flange along with the bottle. We pumped the upper hose like crazy to help blow air out. Don't know if that helped, but it relieved some frustration. We read our instructions and ran it and let it cool again, for topping up.
The upper hose started to respond by getting hot along the length of it. And, after driving about our park and back, the botton hose was hot and as I checked under the car for the full length of the bottom hose, the fans came on low speed.................O MY ITS SO NICE. There is a drip from the bottle hose where it connects to the metal tube ( caused during removal to clean) so a new one will be ordered. I had to look hard to find this as it falls under the car and was running down the tube first.
Thank you guys..............I have been telling so many other NBs about getting help on this site. Our NBs parts needed cleaning and this problem was just waiting for a warm day. The cooling flange from NAPA was under $15, for real!!
 

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LUV a happy ending

Glad u got the beetle running good again, :bigthumb: hope the coolant don't get mixed with the wrong stuff again. only G12
 
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