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Hi Fellas,
Ive got a VAG405 and scanned my bug and found a bunch of codes and I don’t even know where to start:

1. P0411 Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected; Static, no Indication On Display  16795
2. P0116 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Implausible Signal; Static, no define  16500
3. P1225 Fuel Injector for Cyclinder 1 (N30): Short to Ground: Static, no define  17633
4. P1226 Fuel Injector for Cyclinder 1 (N31): Short to Ground: Static, no define  17634
5. P1227 Fuel Injector for Cyclinder 1 (N32): Short to Ground: Static, no define  17635
6. P1228 Fuel Injector for Cyclinder 1 (N33): Short to Ground: Static, no define  17636
7. P1451 Secondary Air Injection System: Short to Ground: Static, no define  17859
8. P1421 Secondary Air Solenoid injection Valve (N112): Short to Ground: Static, no define  17829
9. P1425 EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Short to Ground: Static, no define  17833

Seems like a problem likely connected to a junction/relay somewhere tying all these sensors up. I could be wrong, but anybody had a similar experience? What were your fixes?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
injector 1 to 4:

http://www.autocodes.com/p1225_volkswagen.html

note: Tech notes If the code is combine with other fuel injector codes (P1226, P1227, P1228, P1229, P1230) it's possible that the problem is the Fuel Pump Relay.

Read more: http://www.autocodes.com/p1225_volkswagen.html




as always, thanks Billy, Im having some stalling issues i still havent nailed them yet, I fear its the fuel pump although I didnt know hteres also a fuel pump relay any connection to the relay and my stalloing isues?
 

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Well, you have so many codes; it makes you think, it could be relay or power/harness related.

A bad coolant temp sensor itself; can cause problems with hard starts in the morning and a rich condition.

The purge valve; has caused hard or no starts with a full gas tank.

A bad speed/crank sensor; can cause a dying problem but that normally, will throw a trouble code.

Then, like the injector code definition said; with ALL of them throwing codes, it could be a relay or wiring harness related. Having ALL the injectors; fail at once, seems unlikely.

Trouble codes, tend to build up over time; you might clear them and drive around a bit and see what comes back. Then, see what codes come back; then, you could post them up and we could start working through those.

On the 2.0L, a dirty throttle body; has caused problems with a rough idle and possibly stalling.

Then, there are the basics; like a tune up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter etc.) and fuel pressure, compression, etc.

Looking at live data and your fuel trims; could give you a sense of the tune of the engine, + or - 10% should be investigated.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

Unfortunately, the VAG 405; is only a basic code reader, do you have any other access to a scan tool with live data capability? If not, you might check out a ELM 327 obd II wireless dongle (bluetooth for Android and Wifi for ios/Apple) and a app ($20-$30 total); something like OBDFusion, will work on a phone or tablet. Otherwise, there are the VAG 401, Foxwell NT500, VCDS by Ross Tech or the new OBDEleven for Android, which is $60.

https://www.google.com/search?q=OBDEleven&oq=OBDEleven&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i59j69i60j69i61j69i59&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

So, reading all the trouble codes, it shows allot of different things going on; let us know, the history of the car, when it was worked on last and when it has been tuned up, basically the overall running of the car, its recently running history. Also, has anything been changed recently or major work been done; that might affect things?

You might start working through troubleshooting, the list of things/trouble codes and see if changing things improve, your drivability problems.

Let us know; the year, engine, and transmission your car has; then, we can give you service manual links, to start testing things and we can go from there.
 

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Most of your list of things are ones that are connected through the fuel pump relay. The temperature sensor isn't, and the fuel pump and O2 sensors are, but other than those you've listed exactly what goes through that relay.
 

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Similar issues here. I replaced the triptronic shifter and that cleared the hard code 01314 and all seemed good. A couple of short runs through the neighborhood and got a ck engine light again. Following codes, 17880, 17843, 16421, 16486, 17949, and 16415 plus the dreaded 1314 again and a mean hard shift. I replaced the 409 fuel pump relayed and drove to the gas station, all seemed good and then they came back. I'm beginning to think faulty ground in harness but lost at this point. By the way, 05 beetle 2.0
 

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Kinda wondered if an off brand may not work correctly. Thanks I will get a VW relay and try. I have a parts car. May see if it makes a difference. Question though, if fuel relay is bad is it normal for the car to run?
 

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It can cause a no start or a intermittent issue; it can even cause, the engine to die, if you open the drivers side door, when the engine is on! Strange stuff and the design of the internal board, can be different and actually missing components, on it.
 

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Ok Billymade, riddle me this...grabbed a used relay from my parts car, installed and cleared codes. Did my neighborhood test drive and seemed good. Went ahead and made a main drag test run, still good. Pushed further and made a short interstate run, still good. Exited came to a stop, left the light and BOOM!, back again. Limped it back home about a mile and checked codes and they are back. What are the chances there is a failing component to cause these relay failures? Car starts fine, no injectors codes, just the short to ground and the 01314 code. That or Ecu or harness is my direction of thinking.
 

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Please post all the codes; that came back. The above link, definitely; relates, possible wiring issues to the ecu . You might pop the cover off the dash and do a visual inspection of the ecu, the plug, harness and see, if there are any signs of water ingress, green stuff from oxidation, bent pins at the ecu or any other obvious damage.

As noted, in the ross tech definition; using VCDS Measuring Value Blocks, one could monitor the communication status with the ecu, as you drive or if you have the dash apart, wiggle wires and plugs, to see, if you could get the communication status, to fail. At that point, you might have found; the area of the wiring harness; that could have a issue, damage or connectivity problem. I have seen, everything from oxidized plugs/pins/wiring, to signs of water ingress, damaged harnesses, bent pins, or plugs that were/are damaged.

This type of diagnosis takes time, work, effort, thorough visual inspections and it really helps, to have a advanced scan tool, like VCDS, to monitor live data, so you can see, when the ecu works or drops out of communication. I had a old Audi A4 I was working, the ecu kept having issues; I pulled the plug to it, it was full of green oxidation, we cleaned it with CRC electrical contact cleaner, added some silicone dielectric grease and this helped, restore electrical correct contact at the ecu plug. There are many possible reasons for the problem; it will take your own troubleshooting and visual inspection, viewing live data with a vw scan tool like vcds, process of elimination, to figure out why.

When, we have seen the fuel pump relay fail; in my case, it would be a intermittent issue and then, as time went on, it became a more frequent problem (this issue; showed up as a hard start problem). Replacement, of the fuel pump relay with a genuine vw/stribel oem part; fixed, that problem for me but it sounds, like you maybe have a more advanced issue but your used part, may or may not be good, as well (an open question)?

You have some work ahead of you; let us know, how your visual inspections, testing and repair go, moving forward, we can go from there. Thanks.
 

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One other thought for you to ponder. What if the fuel pump was beginning to fail? Maybe drawing to much amperage. I was thinking (yes, that is scary) but maybe, with a good known relay, unplugging the fuel pump harness, powering the pump via jump box and seeing if it will run.....it's a stretch but hey if I was that good I would be answering questions instead of asking ;)
 

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17880, 17843, 16421, 16486, 17949, and 16415 plus the dreaded 1314 . Also, let me give you some more info on car. I bought this one and 99 as well cheap. This car ran great, 98k but had the shift issues the guy explained. It had also blow a tire at one time on the right rear and destroyed the "evap?" box. I replaced that, replaced the triptronic shifter and things seemed well. I have painted and replaced the door panels, from the parts car, cleaned all the soft touch crap, used the wheels off of the parts car and other than the drivers seat having some cracking in the "leather" it is a real nice car. Power windows work great, cold ac, hot heat...door locks and mirrors need attention but still nothing major there unless the central locking system is causing the issue.
 
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