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Hi guys, well I got screwed and I just bought a 2004 convertible beetle 2.0 it has coolant issues and the motor was blown. So I've got to replace the motor and probably the water pump. So what I want to know is can put a different motor (2.5) in instead and what all do I need to change? I've always been a Jeep girl so these cars are new to me.
 

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You would have to switch out pretty much everything. Engine, wiring, ECU, transmission probably. Might need different axles but not entirely sure. It would be much easier to swap another 2.0 in.

But what exactly is going on with your motor? Did it overheat? Blown head gasket? Its not super common for the 2.0's to fail catastrophically.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You would have to switch out pretty much everything. Engine, wiring, ECU, transmission probably. Might need different axles but not entirely sure. It would be much easier to swap another 2.0 in.

But what exactly is going on with your motor? Did it overheat? Blown head gasket? Its not super common for the 2.0's to fail catastrophically.
I found the print out of a pressure test on the seat. It reads #1 110 psi #2 50 psi #3 93 and #4 120. The mechanic writes that when the car was brought in it had no water and no oil registered on the dip stick and it was making a chattering noise. A compression test on the coolant system produced leakage around the timing chain. He visually saw that the freeze pugs had come off so he replaced those but that did not fix the coolant issue. I would not here that it might have had he put the hoses back on properly and with the correct clamps. One hose was just dangling. He said the spark plugs need to be changed also. What I dont get is I started the car the day before and let it idle for 15 minutes put it through all gears and it was as quiet as could be.
 

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I'm going to go buy a compression kit and plugs and what not. I've ordered a mechanics manual. I guess it's back to school. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 

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With numbers like that you may well be in for a new motor. The 2.0 motor could come from a similar year Golf, Jetta or beetle not necessarily just a beetle. The easiest replacement would be with the same engine. I know a lot of Jeep guys change out that 2.5 for the 6cyl., and I think that’s fairly easy to do on a Jeep. I think as smiley has said you’d need wiring harness, ecu and maybe axles, at least. A little/lot more involved for a vw.

Changing the engine is easy on these cars you pull the front off and lower the engine onto the legs of an engine puller and slide it out. My avatar picture shows the front of my daughters beetle with the engine ready to come out.

Many vw owners swap their atrociously bad automatic transmissions for a 5 spd that involves different axles and of course all the cables, gear shift, clutch pedal and so on. Usually just a code change in the ecu with vcds.
 

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It is much easier on a Jeep. Thanks for the input. I have a feeling I'm going to wish I had stuck to Jeeps before this is done. If I see the guy who sold this car to me he better run for his life. I talked to the mechanic and definitely knew the motor was shot. The father said he was driving it the night before it was delivered mechanic said it.came in with no water and oil so low it didnt hit dip stick. It ran fine when I bought it. But Ca doesn't have private party lemon law.
 

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Ugh, sorry to hear about your situation; not, a very good introduction to a new beetle! :( If you do end up fixing and replacing the engine; the 2.0L was the most plentiful engine VW used in the Mark IV/New Beetle era cars. You should have no problem at all, finding a good used engine or rebuilt long block, these are the most reasonable costing engine, because there are so many of them out there. I don't know why but people, really neglect, hack, beat up and abuse these era VW's! Like anything, if you maintain them; they can be ok but if neglected, they can really complain! Needless, to say; it doesn't take much to destroy a engine without water or oil, regardless of what brand of car it is.

I would think about the overall condition of the car is and count the costs, for all the repairs you want to do and what you would end up with. New convertible tops seem to be roughly $1000 to $2000 installed; depending where you live. If you have a automatic, those are known; to have issues, at some point and typically, at a minimum, require valve bodies or gear selectors, sensor, wiring harnesses, to sort out shifting issues or worst case scenario, a rebuild.

In my area, New Beetle's are selling for pretty cheap; so, it is debate, to fix what you have or find another one, that is in good working order and a car, someone cared about, kept it maintained.

We have a new wave of people joining this site and they are pretty much, in the same boat as you with a new beetle, that has been neglected and has a needed major repair, that has disabled the vehicle (typically a bad engine or transmission). Many, are tackling the repairs and working through them, to get them back on the road. It CAN be done but repair costs, are always a issue. If you move forward with things; let us know, if there is any way we can help. Thanks.
 

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Unfortunately it’s buyer beware. I would just slide a new engine in, as I said it’s really not a bad job. I’ve done it twice on a beetle, once on a Jetta and once on a golf. They are all pretty much the same with the beetle having a bit tighter of a space to work with. Of course if you remove the rain tray that helps tremendously. Those 2.0 engines last like a Jeep engine does many people have 150-250k miles on them. It’s the auto transmissions that are the problem usually.
 

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Ugh, sorry to hear about your situation; not, a very good introduction to a new beetle! :( If you do end up fixing and replacing the engine; the 2.0L was the most plentiful engine VW used in the Mark IV/New Beetle era cars. You should have no problem at all, finding a good used engine or rebuilt long block, these are the most reasonable costing engine, because there are so many of them out there. I don't know why but people, really neglect, hack, beat up and abuse these era VW's! Like anything, if you maintain them; they can be ok but if neglected, they can really complain! Needless, to say; it doesn't take much to destroy a engine without water or oil, regardless of what brand of car it is.

I would think about the overall condition of the car is and count the costs, for all the repairs you want to do and what you would end up with. New convertible tops seem to be roughly $1000 to $2000 installed; depending where you live. If you have a automatic, those are known; to have issues, at some point and typically, at a minimum, require valve bodies or gear selectors, sensor, wiring harnesses, to sort out shifting issues or worst case scenario, a rebuild.

In my area, New Beetle's are selling for pretty cheap; so, it is debate, to fix what you have or find another one, that is in good working order and a car, someone cared about, kept it maintained.

We have a new wave of people joining this site and they are pretty much, in the same boat as you with a new beetle, that has been neglected and has a needed major repair, that has disabled the vehicle (typically a bad engine or transmission). Many, are tackling the repairs and working through them, to get them back on the road. It CAN be done but repair costs, are always a issue. If you move forward with things; let us know, if there is any way we can help. Thanks.
Thank you for your situation analysis. They are good points to consider. On the other side say I dont fix it then my options are a very expensive flower box or sell to a junk yard for almost nothing. Since train was done less than 15k mi. back total miles on it are 71k, and the interior, exterior and top cover are all in P👌 good shape, I'm in for the good bad and ugly. That doesn't mean I wont try and cut a corner. Which brings me to Bars Leak and its instructions. It says when engine is cool to start pouring into top radiator hose. But until it gets to operating temp and the thermastat opens there isnt enough room to poor it in. Is there a but if you have a vw with a short hose do this? I am not getting it. Help...Please.
 

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Hmm, well, you have a substantial issue with a possible head gasket or other compression problem (#1 110 psi #2 50 psi #3 93 and #4 120). 50 psi vs. 120 psi, is lower then half; of the highest compression reading. I would want to narrow down the problem; more specifically, a leak down test and/or using a mechanics borescope, count pin point the #2 cylinder 50 psi problem. If it is a head gasket leak, you might be able to get away with a rebuilt head and a replacement head gasket set but I would check the bottom end, as well. A full evaluation, of the engine damage; would help, guide you to the next step but a good used engine or a rebuilt long block, is another option as well.

NOTE: on two of the "good" cylinders; you are close or under the wear limit of 108 psi, you are on edge or below, one ok @ 120 and then one, compromised, the other two (#1 110 psi, #3 93) . This would indicate to me; you need at the minimum a possible head rebuild or possibly, cylinder related repairs done. Even, if the worst cylinder is addressed (70 psi compared to 108 psi; differences of 43 psi vs. 70psi) ; you are still @ the edge of low or below compression spec, on the other two cylinders.


Compression Check: Specifications

Compression pressure values

New: 10-13 bar: (145-188 psi)
Wear limit: 7.5 bar (108 psi)
Permissible difference between all cylinders: 3 bar (43 psi)


What has been done so far; to address, the issues you are aware of? Can you explain, what you mean by: "Since train was done less than 15k mi. back total miles on it are 71k"?

Bars Leak install; there are some videos and instructions on line, that might help?


Before, contaminating the engine with a product like that; I would strongly recommend, you confirm the problem FIRST, before going to a "head gasket in a can", type product. A leak down tester and/or a mechanics borescope based testing, visual inspection; can help you pinpoint the problem but that doesn't address, possible mechanical damage to the bottom end. Removal, of the oil pan and inspection of the crank/rod bearings; would be a check, along with the head/cam caps/saddles, for damage, could give you potential mechanical damage, aside from coolant/compression leaks.

Let say, for argument's sake: you got the bars leaks; to "fix" the head gasket/coolant leak, if you still had bearing issues, you really haven't accomplished anything as the engine will still end up failing and low compression, could or technically, would be out of spec or on the edge, if you are lucky.

I believe, more inspection and testing is needed; to really fully evaluate, the current damage to the engine. You should be able, to rent a leak down tester and possibly, a mechanics borescope at your local auto parts store for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay, well I did have it confirmed that the head gasket between 1 & 2 is where the issue with the motor is. The original problem was a leak in the coolant system. Damm near all of that has been replaced except the actual water pump. Freeze plugs thermastat and housing, outlet flange and hoses were fine. I saw inone video they took out the thermostat before using the gasket seal. But only one. Also went and bought a manual for a 2004 2.0 beetle but the motor in that one didnt look like mine. Is there a difference between the hard top motor and a convertable?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If the ultimate solution is a new motor but I can get it going in the meantime that is what I need. The Germans crammed everything in there so tight, it is trying my patients. To put it lady like.
 

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It may not need a whole new motor; it is hard to know, until you visually inspect and test things. The motors in the convertible are different; the intake manifold, plastic and they seem to have done other change as well.

We have another member, who is in the same boat as you; maybe, you can check out his thread and give you an idea, of what it might take to do a head and head gasket swap. He was able to get a rebuilt head; for under $300 and has it close to back together! :) You might ask him, for the repair/parts costs and that would give you an idea, of what it would take to do a head on yours (assuming, everything else; like the bottom end, is ok).
 

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Check out his thread and the journey, to get his 2.0L convertible, back on the road! :)

 

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What makes you say possible bottom end dammage? What I did was go back to the mechanic who diagnosed the car and I thought had last worked on it. He told me he performed 2 tests alchemical block test which was inconclusive. Then he performed a cylinder compression test. From that he determined that there was leakage from the 2nd cylinder going into the first. Most likely the head gasket. There is no water in the oil.
 

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Ahh, each situation is different; as you will see, in the other thread, a head gasket commonly causes a mix of oil and coolant, which decreases, the lubrication viscosity, the ability of the oil, to protect metal surfaces. When that happens and the engine keeps getting driven, bearings will get damaged. That is encouraging, assuming your bottom end, cylinders are good; then, you would only need, to address the head and head gasket (theoretically). Repairing your current engine and repair parts cost; are starting to sound, like a good option and possibly cost effective solution. Assuming, everything else is ok! :)
 

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Okay, thank you for a little ray of light. I've got more questions. Which actual motor do I have. Everyone talks about BEV and ??? And to go look on the timing cover but I cant read what's on mine. Owners manual no help. Just trying to get myself armed and mobile so I can punch that guy in the nose. I mean thank him for the incredible life lesson I could do without.
 

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Well in the owners manual (and I take it back the no help comment) I found a sticker and it said my motor code is BGD and trans is 66z. Why cant people just say what they mean? Thank you very much billymaid for your patients and assistance I saved the thread you shared with me which gave a link to an online workshop manual. Which made me chase down my motors codes which took so long I forgot until now why I was looking them up in the first damm place.
I think I will hang it up for the night and go play with my wood. At least it doesn't speak in acronyms. I will be back tomorrow, lol, I'm not going anywhere.
 

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There should be a sticker; on the timing belt cover, and a sticker in your trunk, typically in the user manual. Look at these; links for more info:


 

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As to research, on the rebuilt head check out this place: you might call them and see, if they will rebuild your head or if they have a advance exchange available:


FCPEURO, has great parts prices; especially, on things like head gaskets, head bolts and pretty much anything you might need, plus they have a lifetime warranty on all the parts they sell (free shipping on $49 orders and above; then a price break @ $299):

www.fcpeuro.com
 
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