[blueballin]

I have a 2003 turbo s. It's been at the body shop for a bit now and just got it back today. The car wouldn't start after setting. I replaced the battery and it cranked over but no start. Then I replaced the relay. No start. So frustrated I sat inside with both doors closed trying to find An answer on my phone. I went ahead and tried again and after a few cranks she started! I open the door to check it out and it died. It does this every time now. Is this a bad door switch? Do I need to reset anything? Nothing has changed except some body work and a new battery! Before no issues at all!

 

[Smileybug]

What relay did you replace? If it was the fuel pump relay, then it's likely that, especially if you got it from an auto parts store.


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[PRM502STREET]

You say the car would not start after setting. I don't understand how ANY shop can deliver a car that is not running. How long did the car sit, after you got it home from the body shop?

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[blueballin]

I was wondering about the quality of the relay. I've been reading about that. I bought what was at autozone. I've read those are the worst. Where would you recommend.

My buddies body shop. He's had it for about 3 months. We trailered it home. He bought the new battery for it so I didn't feel to bad! Haha.

 

[PRM502STREET]

Did they weld any panels on the car?

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[blueballin]

No welding at all. Just fiberglass work. Cracked front fender and lower valance from P.O. Just driving me crazy since it ran just fine before it parked.

 

[PRM502STREET]

Very bizarre indeed...

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[Smileybug]

Get the relay from the dealer or other VW parts supplier online (german auto parts, ECS Tuning, 1st vw parts, etc. ). OEM seems to be pretty important on those.

 

[scarabY2k]

My beetle is having this same issue. Replaced the fuel pump. 3 times, as well as a relay. Still the same issue...and she cuts off when I open her driver's side door.

After replacing the fuel pump, she started , no problem. I drove around for the day with no issues. Got home at day's end, woke up in the morning and no start. After the 3rd fuel pump replacement, I made a kill switch running from the fuse panel, to starve the pump of power while she sat for a duration.

Temporary as it is, it solved the problem. Still she would cut off when you open the door. Once I accidentally forgot to turn the switch off overnight, and she wouldn't start. I turned the switch on and let her sit for the day....she fired right up.

my conclusion is that the problem lies within the door switch. Oh, and my alarm arms itself intermittently. I'll turn the key to lock the door, and maybe the alarm will arm itself- sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. The solder within the door switch's contact posts, deteriorate, causing poor contact (poor quality solder), resulting in an open circuit to the fuel pump, causing the pump so shut down- an overheat failsafe I guess. what's causing this shut down the door opens, I don't know...the immobilizer maybe??? All I know is that the problem seems to lie within the door switch.

I'll be grabbing a door switch out of a salvage beetle this weekend.

 

[blueballin]

I'm tearin the door down today to get to the switch. Here's a write up my buddy found. So this hopefully will solve it!
VWVortex.com - MKIV door locks explained - why you're having problems!!!

 

[blueballin]

Well it's fixed! I went to the dealership and bought a new door latch assembly. While I was there I bought an oem fuel pump relay. The car does everything like it should now. Crazy to think it was a bad door latch assembly!

 

[tedybear]

Glad it's worked out.

How much did they charge you for the relay and latch--if ya don't mind me asking...


(We just pulled another latch out of a 2000 Beetle at the local yard for a back up to ours)

S-

 

[scarabY2k]

Yep, that little microswitch in the door latch assembly is the culprit. If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can fix the old switch. you'll notice the cracked solder in the contacts. Get you some good quality solder and the switch/assembly will be good as new. Might be able to sell it either as is or repaired...recoup some of the cash for the new assembly you bought

 

[tedybear]

Yep, that little microswitch in the door latch assembly is the culprit. If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can fix the old switch. you'll notice the cracked solder in the contacts. Get you some good quality solder and the switch/assembly will be good as new. Might be able to sell it either as is or repaired...recoup some of the cash for the new assembly you bought

I'll probably do the same thing here. We have the first latch that we thought was messing up. So we picked up another and installed it--still messed up a bit-- So we got one more!

And then found the rear of the door handle wasn't in the spring retainer/return lever...that got fixed today and the handle is 100% functional now.

S-

 

[scarabY2k]

I'll probably do the same thing here. We have the first latch that we thought was messing up. So we picked up another and installed it--still messed up a bit-- So we got one more!

And then found the rear of the door handle wasn't in the spring retainer/return lever...that got fixed today and the handle is 100% functional now.

S-

Cool deal.
You reminded me that I've gotta load my toolbox in my car. I'll get off work early one day this week. The salvage yard is on my way home and I can make a stop and pull it. I'll probably grab a spare ignition and brake switch for good measure

 

[blueballin]

We looked everywhere and couldn't find a bad solder! Part of the electronic board was burnt though. The new latch and relay was 300 or so from the dealer. Worth it to me.