VW Beetle Forum banner

Car starts but dies 2 seconds after.

25K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  cassidielace 
#1 ·
Well I had an issue with my headlights, the high beams were on automatically constantly! So I took the headlight out and found that some of the wires were bare, the plastic conduit that covers the wire was brittle and fell off, and some of the bare wires were touching causing it to ground.

I cut the old wires and soldered new wires in, put the headlights back in the car and went to start it, the car starts but dies in 2 seconds.

Pls help!
 
#2 ·
I wondering if you somehow shorted out a fusible link in the fuse box that is on top of the battery. It almost sounds as if the engine is trying to run off the battery and isn't getting anything from the alternator.

M.
 
#4 ·
Based on what you describe, it sounds like the Immobilizer may be active.

When you first turn the ignition on, look at the instrument cluster. Do you see an amber icon that is an outline of a Beetle with a key under it? And is it flashing? Tends to be located above the 80MPH mark.

You can try doing a "Battery jesus" (pronounced Hey-Zues). Disconnect the battery cables and then touch them together for 10 seconds and reconnect. I've done this to "reset" the Immobilizer system when it gets confused. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

Another thing I've seen cause this is the Throttle Body Alignment messed up. The early Beetles with the 2.0 AEG engine were bad about doing this when battery power was lost. One would just have to do a Throttle Body Alignment to resolve the issue.

If you can, scan the car for fault codes and post them up there. Would like to see the Engine Control Module and Instrument Cluster codes.

BTW - VW states to never soldier on the wiring harness, crimps only. Please see Technical Bulletin 97-07-02.
 
#5 ·
BTW - VW states to never soldier on the wiring harness, crimps only.
Not to minimize the importance of what pencilneck has said here about the mechanical issues, but to set your mind, and the minds of any other readers at ease, the recommendation for not soldiering harness wiring does not really appy here, at the headlight wiring.

TB 97 07 02 http://www.google.com/url?q=http://...QQFjAC&usg=AFQjCNH3oMdGfrrRneBFNrzC71V3L4d99g addresses the negative concern pertaining primarily to the "platform wire harness" which contains very small connectors and wires carrying very low level signals (e.g. sensor and control signals), interlinked electronic and mechanical functions within a specific system (e.g. MIL, Airbag, Sat-Nav, etc.) and the marked reduction in installation and accesible space. This doesn't apply to the headlight wiring.

Following proper soldiering practices for these wires, with sufficent overlap to compensate for the minimal contact of the two wires (an inch for 14 or 16 ga. wires should suffice), and then proper isolation (heat shrink or electrical tape) from the potential for grounding and the elements should provide a splice that is both functional and outlives the life of the vehicle.

M.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the reminder about the "Battery Jesus" trick. I used that trick about 8 years ago when it worked for me.

Last night my car was attempting to start, but immediately died every time. I crossed the battery cable this morning on my 2002 Beetle, and then it started right up.

All test on battery, starter, and alternator said everything was fine. I guess the active Immobilizer strikes again. Thanks a bunch for posting your comments.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top