Well, the flickering lights and clicking; is a classic case of a dead battery. Charge the battery and hopefully, the engine will start and everything is ok.
Car won't start after gasket repair
Hello all, first post here.
I drive a 2000 1.8t Beetle, engine AWV.
Today, I took off the valve cover and changed the gaskets, including the cam tensioner seal and half moon seal.
It was pretty straightforward, I thought, as it only took me a couple hours (with a 4 hour break in between due to rain storm).
I put everything back together, and when I tried to start it, it just clicked loudly while I turned the key. As it clicked the display lights flickered in sync, and the dome light slowly dimmed and went out.
After several more tries, it clicks much less, if at all, but the engine won't turn over. It just dies right before. I realized that I didn't unhook the battery during the whole process. I just spaced it, partly because the tutorial I read from didn't list it in the steps.
Really hoping I didn't screw the pooch. I was actually proud of myself, because it seemed rather easy.
I drive a 2000 1.8t Beetle, engine AWV.
Today, I took off the valve cover and changed the gaskets, including the cam tensioner seal and half moon seal.
It was pretty straightforward, I thought, as it only took me a couple hours (with a 4 hour break in between due to rain storm).
I put everything back together, and when I tried to start it, it just clicked loudly while I turned the key. As it clicked the display lights flickered in sync, and the dome light slowly dimmed and went out.
After several more tries, it clicks much less, if at all, but the engine won't turn over. It just dies right before. I realized that I didn't unhook the battery during the whole process. I just spaced it, partly because the tutorial I read from didn't list it in the steps.
Really hoping I didn't screw the pooch. I was actually proud of myself, because it seemed rather easy.
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Well, the flickering lights and clicking; is a classic case of a dead battery. Charge the battery and hopefully, the engine will start and everything is ok.
Cool. Just called a buddy, a little persuasion and he's now making a late night trip over with a charger.
I really should have this stuff by now.
Well, just charged the battery.
Same thing. Clicking and instrument cluster flickering.
A small bit of smoke and burning smell from near the battery compartment.
Same thing. Clicking and instrument cluster flickering.
A small bit of smoke and burning smell from near the battery compartment.
Would this happen if the placement of the cam chain was off?
I used the tool, and it literally didn't move the whole time. Everything appeared to go according to plan...
I used the tool, and it literally didn't move the whole time. Everything appeared to go according to plan...
Check the connections at the battery and at the box on top of the battery.
Can you turn the engine by hand with a wrench??
Can you turn the engine by hand with a wrench??
Check the connections at the battery and at the box on top of the battery.
Can you turn the engine by hand with a wrench??
OK, will check connections.
I removed the timing belt cover and put a 16mm wrench on the bolt. Tried turning it counter clockwise and it wouldn't budge.
edit: had to leave to run an errand. tried turning it clockwise and it turns ok.
Also, my repair was stalled due to a wild rain storm.
Any chance water got into a connection and caused a short?
Any chance water got into a connection and caused a short?
Replies in bold above.Rain storm can cause a electrical short, possibly, but hardly.
I wash engine bay twice a year, never have a problem.
By the way, all 2000 Beetle have APH 1.8T, not AWV.
My bad, it's a 2001.
Questioning :
1. While you put the camshaft chain tensioner back, did you check the camshaft chain timing mark ? Are they aligning to the camshaft bearing cap mark ?
No, I didn't. The camshaft nor chain moved one bit, so I thought it would be fine. I'm now thinking I need to take everything back apart and check
2. You need to take out the battery, take it to parts store to have a test.
ok, I'll do this. Although, the battery charger my friend let me borrow said it's ok (per diagnostic mode), and it checks out on the multimeter.
3. Remove the battery, perform a direct jump start from terminal to terminal.
I'll give this a try when I get to the store and get some jumper cables.
4. When you turn the key to start engine, what did you hear ?
click click click click click click. my girl was watching and she saw smoke coming from near the battery terminal. on two separate occasions, it BEGAN to turn the engine over then died. it made the engine-turning-over sound for probably 1/10th of a second
Thank you for your time.
That sounds like you need a new starter.
But go test your battery first.
I believe you can do everything right, because if you don't have confidence, you wouldn't touch it.
Is there a possibility that something I did during the repair damaged the starter?
...because I started the car to drive it in front of the garage, and it seems rather odd that it would crap out right when I do this repair.
The starter did that "duck" noise every time, maybe it was going out.
Probably not to be honest. My 2 cents is to remove the battery and starter, take them to your local AutoZone/Pep Boys, etc.. and have them bench test both of them.
They can confirm if the battery is good, and if the starter, including starter solenoid is still good.
Keep us posted.
They can confirm if the battery is good, and if the starter, including starter solenoid is still good.
Keep us posted.
Probably not to be honest. My 2 cents is to remove the battery and starter, take them to your local AutoZone/Pep Boys, etc.. and have them bench test both of them.
They can confirm if the battery is good, and if the starter, including starter solenoid is still good.
Keep us posted.
Hmm...I'm not sure I can get the car up high enough with my jack+stands to do any work (I've found jack stands to be useless on a beetle sport if you weigh more than 200lbs), and can't drive it up ramps with no starter.
The car hit cost prohibition about 2 years ago, and I'm really considering letting it go to someone who has countless hours to work on it and deal with the nonstop problems.
I'll really have to think this over, it's been such an unreliable vehicle for so long.
I VERY MUCH appreciate everyone's input and time. Having worked on this car--I know how valuable time is.
No worries, they do require more TLC the most cars. BTW, you should be able to remove the Battery and Started through the top. Take the Battery out first, then you should have enough room to pull the starter. Best of luck either way.
No worries, they do require more TLC the most cars. BTW, you should be able to remove the Battery and Started through the top. Take the Battery out first, then you should have enough room to pull the starter. Best of luck either way.
Well, my stepdad came over today with jumper cables and she eventually started up.
The original problem, that caused us to not be driving it, was a p1297 and p0171 code. This made starting difficult, despite the jump start.
P1297
Leaking Hoses and/or Pipes between Components -I've searched everything I can get my hands on and cannot see/find/feel a single breach
Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) faulty -No idea how to check this
Diverter Valve faulty -Same, don't know how to check it, EDIT: pulled it and checked it, holds suction very well.
Throttle Body dirty -Cleaned her up, shiny and spotless. Not the problem
Vacuum leak -Same as the first, cannot find any leak in the vacuum system
P0171
Check Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) -Replaced, not the problem
Check Fuel Pressure Regulation -??? EDIT: preliminary check of the FPR shows no signs of fuel from the tube. with check further soon as i can.
Check Fuel Pump -???
Check Injectors -pulled the fuel rail and looked at them, everything looks ok, seals are perfect and everything is perfectly clean, would like to know more
Check Intake System for Leaks -everything seems to be fine
Check Exhaust System for Leaks -need to put her on blocks to check the turbo exhaust
Check Secondary Air System for Leaks -everything seems to be fine
Check Vacuum Pipes for Leaks -everything seems to be fine
From what I've gathered, the countless P0171 threads out there, this particular code might be beyond my expertise level. People have reported damn near everything being the culprit on this one...
Leaking Hoses and/or Pipes between Components -I've searched everything I can get my hands on and cannot see/find/feel a single breach
Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) faulty -No idea how to check this
Diverter Valve faulty -Same, don't know how to check it, EDIT: pulled it and checked it, holds suction very well.
Throttle Body dirty -Cleaned her up, shiny and spotless. Not the problem
Vacuum leak -Same as the first, cannot find any leak in the vacuum system
P0171
Check Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) -Replaced, not the problem
Check Fuel Pressure Regulation -??? EDIT: preliminary check of the FPR shows no signs of fuel from the tube. with check further soon as i can.
Check Fuel Pump -???
Check Injectors -pulled the fuel rail and looked at them, everything looks ok, seals are perfect and everything is perfectly clean, would like to know more
Check Intake System for Leaks -everything seems to be fine
Check Exhaust System for Leaks -need to put her on blocks to check the turbo exhaust
Check Secondary Air System for Leaks -everything seems to be fine
Check Vacuum Pipes for Leaks -everything seems to be fine
From what I've gathered, the countless P0171 threads out there, this particular code might be beyond my expertise level. People have reported damn near everything being the culprit on this one...
P1297
For boost leaks; you might try a smoke test or boost leak testing. There are quite a few DIY's on this issue:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=boost+leak+testing+1.8T
an example of boost leak testing:
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...o-boost-pressure-test-funky-smell-solved.html
A common failure; has been the boost hose behind the valve cover:
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...essure-drop-between-turbo-throttle-valve.html
others, have mentioned the diverter and N75 valve.
The diverter valve; can be tested easily but many times, can be sticking and not leaking:
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...ock-motor-apr-aftermarket-vs-stock-bosch.html
Look at the N75 valve testing video; at the bottom on youtube (heat can also; play a part, some heat up with hair dryer to simulate engine compartment environment temps):
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=N75+valve
P0171
MAF: replaced? What brand and part #, did you replace it with? BOSCH oem is the best replacement MAF; aftermarket cheap versions, can cause problems and not perform well, causing all kinds of drivability issues. This can be checked with live data; confirming, you MAF is performing as it should. You can look up; the correct MAF, for your car here: (be sure to look with your engine code):
https://www.boschautoparts.com/auto
As for checking; your fuel trims, a basic scan tool with live data would be nice to see what is going on. A ELM327 (Wifi apple/Bluetooth android) with a app; for you ios/android phone/tablet, would be a cheap way to start. Search on amazon; for "elm 327".
Fuel trims; can be helpful, in pointing you in the right direction for further troubleshooting:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info
As for checking your fuel pressure; it is not hard to do, you just need to get a fuel pressure tester. You can buy or rent one from most auto parts stores, harbor freight has them for cheap and look for a 20% coupon online (I have used this tester on a number of cars with good results).
Here is the service manual procedure; for checking the fuel pressure:
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...essure_vacuum_and_temperature_specifications/
For the fuel rail; if you removed the rail from the fuel injectors, it is recommended you replace the seals. Many times; they end up leaking, if you don't replace them (old, hard, don't' seal well after removal).
For boost leaks; you might try a smoke test or boost leak testing. There are quite a few DIY's on this issue:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=boost+leak+testing+1.8T
an example of boost leak testing:
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...o-boost-pressure-test-funky-smell-solved.html
A common failure; has been the boost hose behind the valve cover:
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...essure-drop-between-turbo-throttle-valve.html
others, have mentioned the diverter and N75 valve.
The diverter valve; can be tested easily but many times, can be sticking and not leaking:
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...ock-motor-apr-aftermarket-vs-stock-bosch.html
Look at the N75 valve testing video; at the bottom on youtube (heat can also; play a part, some heat up with hair dryer to simulate engine compartment environment temps):
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=N75+valve
P0171
MAF: replaced? What brand and part #, did you replace it with? BOSCH oem is the best replacement MAF; aftermarket cheap versions, can cause problems and not perform well, causing all kinds of drivability issues. This can be checked with live data; confirming, you MAF is performing as it should. You can look up; the correct MAF, for your car here: (be sure to look with your engine code):
https://www.boschautoparts.com/auto
As for checking; your fuel trims, a basic scan tool with live data would be nice to see what is going on. A ELM327 (Wifi apple/Bluetooth android) with a app; for you ios/android phone/tablet, would be a cheap way to start. Search on amazon; for "elm 327".
Fuel trims; can be helpful, in pointing you in the right direction for further troubleshooting:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info
As for checking your fuel pressure; it is not hard to do, you just need to get a fuel pressure tester. You can buy or rent one from most auto parts stores, harbor freight has them for cheap and look for a 20% coupon online (I have used this tester on a number of cars with good results).
Here is the service manual procedure; for checking the fuel pressure:
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...essure_vacuum_and_temperature_specifications/
For the fuel rail; if you removed the rail from the fuel injectors, it is recommended you replace the seals. Many times; they end up leaking, if you don't replace them (old, hard, don't' seal well after removal).
I found a vacuum leak on one of the hoses coming off the intake manifold. It was cracked on the bottom side of the hose. Probably drove it for months before finding it. They will drive you crazy sometimes.
Another place to check is the vacuum line on your brake booster. The plastic connections crack and the code is set even though the hose is fine.
A few of these require new equipment and whatnot, so I can't do them yet, but what I can answer is in bold.
P1297
For boost leaks; you might try a smoke test or boost leak testing. There are quite a few DIY's on this issue:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=boost+leak+testing+1.8T
an example of boost leak testing:
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...o-boost-pressure-test-funky-smell-solved.html
A common failure; has been the boost hose behind the valve cover:
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...essure-drop-between-turbo-throttle-valve.html
This hose is fine.
others, have mentioned the diverter and N75 valve.
The diverter valve; can be tested easily but many times, can be sticking and not leaking:
http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...ock-motor-apr-aftermarket-vs-stock-bosch.html
Did the diverter valve check and it holds a perfect seal.
Look at the N75 valve testing video; at the bottom on youtube (heat can also; play a part, some heat up with hair dryer to simulate engine compartment environment temps):
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=N75+valve
P0171
MAF: replaced? What brand and part #, did you replace it with? BOSCH oem is the best replacement MAF; aftermarket cheap versions, can cause problems and not perform well, causing all kinds of drivability issues. This can be checked with live data; confirming, you MAF is performing as it should. You can look up; the correct MAF, for your car here: (be sure to look with your engine code):
https://www.boschautoparts.com/auto
It is the OEM Bosch MAF, a carbon copy of my original.
As for checking; your fuel trims, a basic scan tool with live data would be nice to see what is going on. A ELM327 (Wifi apple/Bluetooth android) with a app; for you ios/android phone/tablet, would be a cheap way to start. Search on amazon; for "elm 327".
Fuel trims; can be helpful, in pointing you in the right direction for further troubleshooting:
Fuel Trim Info - Ross-Tech Wiki
I have the purchased version of Torq, I've ran an O2 reading and everything was normal, I'll have to fumble around with the menus and see what else I can do.
As for checking your fuel pressure; it is not hard to do, you just need to get a fuel pressure tester. You can buy or rent one from most auto parts stores, harbor freight has them for cheap and look for a 20% coupon online (I have used this tester on a number of cars with good results).
Here is the service manual procedure; for checking the fuel pressure:
Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle GLS L4-1.8L Turbo (AWV) (2001) > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature Specifications
For the fuel rail; if you removed the rail from the fuel injectors, it is recommended you replace the seals. Many times; they end up leaking, if you don't replace them (old, hard, don't' seal well after removal).
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
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