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MegaWatt
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Discussion Starter #1
I brought back to life a 2000 NB TDI that had major issues all round. I've fixed all the mechanical problems, and I now have a clear scan with VCDS except for the Central Convenience module. I've ever only had a valet key - no key fob. I'd like to have one, but assumed I'd need to fix the onboard issues first. Here are my symptoms:

1. VCDS says 2 faults found:
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
49-00 - No communications
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5)
35-00 - -

2. When I try to lock the door with the valet key, the door lock pops back up. The second time I lock it, it stays locked. The lock LED does not flash at all.

3. If, as I exit the car, I push the electric lock button by the door handle, the door does not lock (as it shouldn't), but then when I lock the door with the key once the door is closed, it locks first time I turn the key. Still no LED.

4. The driver window likes to be inoperable. If I remove the connector from the door control module and put it back on, the window works. And while it's working the key will raise and lower the window from outside the car. But after sitting for a while - 10's of minutes, not days - the window is dead again. Removing and replacing the J386 connector, it's good again - for a while.

5. I have already replaced the door lock assembly, and it checks out ok. As mentioned, while the window is operational, it will raise and lower the window. The switch that typically goes bad is verified to be working. I checked continuity on pins 5 and 8 of the lock assembly at the yellow/black and brown/white wires in the door control module, and it verifies the switch is working correctly. Indications are that the lock mechanism is working on all circuits. So I think the door control module is getting the correct input from the lock mechanism, but I can't figure out where to go from there.

6. The pins and contacts in the J386 connector on the door control module looked ok, no sign of oxidation, but I sprayed them with contact cleaner anyway. The window still "goes out", but removing and replacing the connector brings it back, but not permanently.

I'm hoping I can get some help trying to sort this out. I'm sure it's all related, but I hate trying to read the VW wiring diagrams in the Bentley. They're not much help to me for troubleshooting. Give me a schematic any day! So there are my problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01331

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00944

A very common issue; that has caused, all kinds of problems is the door wiring harness, "no communications" is a good clue. In particular, the wires that go from the body to the door (encased in a ribbed rubber sheath); these flex, every time the door is opened and closed. The copper wire strands can break and cause intermittent connections and make, anything connected to it act goofy (alarm, switches, lock module, etc.). We have had MANY members with this problem; a new harness or repairing it, has fixed many a "gremlin", that people have experienced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jljAMQNbl4Y
 

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MegaWatt
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Does the door control module (the window motor assembly) go bad frequently, too? With 29 pins on it, it has lots to do beside running the window motor, but I don't know what all it's supposed to do. I'm just thinking it's a lot easier to change out than the harness if there's a chance it might be having problems. Not to say I may need to change the harness out, too, as you suggested.
 

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I suppose; anything is possible, as I said, the harness seems to be the main culprit (anecdotal evidence; from members here). Door lock modules are common failure points (internal microswitch failures, cracked solder joints) and we have even had, incorrect year parts installed, that were not compatible (people seem to like to hack these cars and use parts from the junkyard). I would take the door apart; test or remove the harness and inspect the door lock module, see what you find. If you do some continuity test with a multimeter; be sure to do the "wiggle test", to see if there are intermittent connection in the wires (especially at the flex area with the rubber sheath).
We can speculate; all day, you just need to "get in there" and inspect and test the harness, look at everything for physical/electrical damage. Another way; to test switches and other components, is the swap them to the passenger side and see if they work (or vice versa).

For the lock module; here is repair info:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1542461-MKIV-door-locks-explained-why-you-re-having-problems!!!-(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcRsmwi6EBM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNmb8KUBAPQ
 

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Had the same problem with one of our two New Beetles. I bought a new door lock control module from dealership because VAGCOM said there was a short in it (no communication, most likely bad micro switches). My son came over and we took the door apart and chased the wiring from the door column through out the door. He took the window motor out and checked the card just behind the harness plug. It was corroded and had burn areas in it. Ordered a rebuilt one (A1Cardone) from local parts jobber and replaced it. Everything started working. Windows went up and down and the door locks started working again. Weird little cars, bad window motor causes the door not to lock.
 

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MegaWatt
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your post. I'm not opposed to checking out the wiring harness, but replacing the window motor is an easy replacement. If that doesn't fix things, then I'll move onto the harness. But I really suspect the motor assembly. There are a number of other posts about the 10 minute bug in the motor that I'm experiencing. Unplug it, then reconnect it and it works for 10 minutes, then the window goes dead again. My experience tells me that's an electronic problem more than a wiring problem. But I'll let everyone know the outcome.
 

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MegaWatt
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
OK, time to give an update on this. I started by ordering a new window motor unit off Ebay, and the guy swore it was working ok. Probably did, but I still had problems. So I started checking out the wiring harness in the door, and both of the comm wires were physically broken in two. So I spliced them back together, but still the motor would only work for 10 minutes or so, and then crash. THEN I checked with VW to see what they charged for a new unit - something like $250 - and they said that the part number I was asking about was not the correct one for my Beetle. I got the correct number, and ordered a new unit from vwparts.com for $175. As soon as I plugged it in, magical things started to happen. My dome light came on - that was a new experience for the driver door - and the chime started dinging telling me the key was in the ignition - again a new experience. AND my side view mirrors now work using the new switch I installed. So in addition to two comm wires being severed, some yahoo had put the wrong motor unit in the door. But it seems like everything is now good to go - with one exception: I'm still getting a fault 0943 and 0944 for the mirror heaters. One to my next troubleshooting adventure! Thanks for your help, BillyMade!
 

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I am glad you got things working! We have had quite a few people; have the wrong parts installed in their doors and that caused all kinds of problems! People love to hack these cars and install incorrect parts; I am assuming, to save money? Needless, to say; it doesn't work out! Congrats on the repairs and sharp diagnosis, figuring out the parts are wrong! Good job! :)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00943

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00944

As for the mirror heaters; they can burn out, because people make the mistake of leaving them on all the time (DO NOT; leave the mirror adjustment in middle all the time). Check the wiring but most likely the heater/mirror assemblies are bad.
 
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