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Clutch wont engage

3938 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  billymade
2002 1.8t New clutch, slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, wont go into gear when running. I bought a motive bleeder to ensure all the air was out. After bleeding several times no change. Out of curiosity i left the bleeder attatched, pressurized at about 15psi started the car and bam all the gears worked. Disconnected everything and now nothing? please help
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5 speed or 6 speed? Some of the clutches are a real challenge t bleed correctly! The best way to bleed; is a reverse bleeder by Phoenix systems. It works very well and is what I would recommend.

https://www.google.com/search?q=phi...=en&q=phoenix+systems+reverse+bleeder&spell=1

Because the trans has been out; I would also adjust the shifter linkage. Check out these sit videos by Dieselgeek:

https://www.google.com/search?q=phi...=safari#hl=en&q=shifter+adjustment+dieselgeek

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2002 1.8t New clutch, slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, wont go into gear when running. I bought a motive bleeder to ensure all the air was out. After bleeding several times no change. Out of curiosity i left the bleeder attatched, pressurized at about 15psi started the car and bam all the gears worked. Disconnected everything and now nothing? please help
Its a 5spd what i dont get is why when its under pressure from the bleeder it will shift, unhook the bleeder and wont shift.
?
Tired of brainstorming this one.
Bleeding problems are well known these cars; Vwvortex has TONS of threads about this issue. The Phoenix system is unique because it works in reverse; it pushes the fluid from the bleeder screw to the master cylinder reservoir (air travels up). This is why it is so effective! I cannot recommend it more highly! It really works on tough to bleed systems; like volkswagen clutches. ?


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If reverse bleeding doesn't work, then from there:

Did you bench bleed the master prior to putting it on the car.

Yes: Put the old slave back in, test if that fails put the old master on the car. It's not impossible to get a bad new part, or even a wrong part if there are variations between model years.

No: Remove it from the car, and bench bleed it correctly.
update bleeding clutch diagnosis

So how do you bench bleed master? The old slave is shot it has a hole in the boot. So here is what i have figured out. I went to local "pick n pull" junkyard and pulled the clutch pedal with master, reservoir line and hydraulic line, got everything minus the spring for bargain price of $6.99 (helps when your a girl i guess) came home put the hydraulic line on and bled once. It worked but everynow and then when coming to a stop i had to pump clutch to get it into 1st. So next day installed the new clutch master i bought, bled nothing, so i installed the used one from junk yard nothing. I can do complete install in about 30 mins now with my eyes closed.
I put the old one back on and nothing, very frustrated. I bled it a thousand times to find out the new hydraulic line i put on now rotates at the slave connection, looked at my old line its solid, googled symptoms and found the seals 1k0798741 so i took seals off the used line and put my old line back on, bled 3 or 4 times i could now shift but still having the pumping issue upon stops. Thinking im going to order a new hydraulic line its around $60 rather than the new seals which are $30. Hoping that fixes my issue.
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Did you try; a reverse bleeder, like the Phoenix systems tool?


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