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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

The flexible hose that goes from my airbox to the some part in the front of the engine has a real hard time staying tightly connected. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with my car throwing these codes:

3 Faults Found:
17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
P1128 - 35-00 - -
16555 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0171 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
16518 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0134 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent​

Does anyone else have this problem with this hose? Any suggestions for getting it to connect tightly? Maybe duct tape?

I've attached a picture of the hose that I borrowed from another post. The red arrow points at the hose (ignore the white circle, that's the other person's issue).

Thanks!

Brent
 

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180 Degrees out of faze
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841 Posts
First, let's decode the other DTCs.

17536- P1128 Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Lean
16555- P0171 Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean
along with
17536 - P1128 Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean

What does all that gibberish mean? It is trying to tell us that there is a problem when the motor is running faster than at idle. The most common cause is a vacuum leak in one of the hoses. Second possibility is the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF white circle in photo). There was a recall on the MAF a while back. Call the dealer and give them your VIN number. You may get it replaced for free.

You can start by giving the hoses the squish test. Just squeeze the hoses, and if any feel squishie, it maybe bad. If it has an oil coating, it maybe bad. If it just falls apart, it is bad. VW sells a hose replacement kit. They are all the right size, so no cutting. Only question is, will your dealer order it?

Most common hose to develope problems is the one going to the kombi valve located on the back side of the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Hannaco for your response!

Yeah, I've replaced the vacuum hoses before, twice, but maybe it's time to do it again. Last time I broke off the nipple on that kombi connector you referenced and had to replace it too.

What about that hose that goes to the secondary air pump from the airbox; got any sugestions on how to keep it connected tightly?

Thanks again.

Brent
 

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180 Degrees out of faze
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That hose can be a problem. Is seems as the hose ages, it tends to fall off more often. You can try and clean the inside of the hose, and the connector. Then use a worm drive type hose clamp. Just clamp it down.
 

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Beluuuuga
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Need new Air Mass Flow sensor & Coolant Sensor

I paid the stealership $105 to tell me two sensors are bad on my 2001 new beetle.

They say it needs a new air mass flow sensor and also a coolant temp sensor and and air filter element... aaannnd
they only want to charge me $422 and my first born son to do the work! :mad: (needless to say I put a curse on the dealer)
:cool:

I am at the point now where the car HAS to be warmed up before I can even consider taking off annddd.... once I take off I have to give it just the right amount of gas or it boggs really bad if I give it too much gas... shakes & quakes and feels like someone's poured mud in the gas line... just wont' go - but if I let off just a bit I can build up enough speed to get her going... problem is - don't ever try to take off fast or into traffic or merge on the freeway - it's getting to the point where I'm having to pull over when I can't get her going just to let the traffic go by! YIKES!!!

I need help guys! Any clues! How much are these parts and are they fixable by my son or does the dealer require yet another special tool to handle this job???

Thanks guys!
 

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Yes, your son can replace all those parts.

The MAF should be 'bout 80? I don't know, been a while. Takes some channel lock pliers to get the spring clamp off/ (I suggest replacing it w/a worm-drive clamp instead, much easier to deal with.) A Phillips head to remove the MAF housing from the stock airbox. And a Torx driver(with a hole in the tip) to remove the sensor fromt he housing. (if the sensor&housing is sold as 1 unit, you won't need to remove the sensor)

Coolant sensor takes a pair of piers to remove.

Air filter takes a phillips head. (and you have to remove that clamp from the MAF housing for this one too)

EASY stuff. Buy the parts online, they're MUCH cheaper than the dealership will charge.

http://www.1stvwparts.com/
http://www.germanautoparts.com/
http://www.worldimpex.com/

All good places, all good prices. Call them if they don't list the part, they all stock things not listed on their websites.

noR
 
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