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Hi guys my wife has a 2000 beetle 2.0 L auto with air power windows kinda loaded . a mounth ago she was at work and started the car as turning the corner after getting back to the parking lot she put her bus away and walked up front the car was sitting there chugging and popping a bit very bad idle, I thought the timming had skipped a tooth so I took it to a shop he couldn't figure it out he retimed the car and run fine with the alt unplugged , But when when It gets plugged in the car will stumble when trying to rev it up and have a rough idle and wont rev up and will stall, I was told the alt is bad I'm not sure what size was on it before but I replaced it with a 120 amp remy and it done the same so i borrowed one from a friend and it started to idle but a little low but it would po stumble and stall out when reved . i called the parts store and had them order another then this morning i put it on it idles low but will shake and pop then stall out dose any one know what is wrong with this car
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hi guys my wife has a 2000 beetle 2.0 L auto with air power windows kinda loaded . a mounth ago she was at work and started the car as turning the corner after getting back to the parking lot she put her bus away and walked up front the car was sitting there chugging and popping a bit very bad idle, I thought the timming had skipped a tooth so I took it to a shop he couldn't figure it out he retimed the car and run fine with the alt unplugged , But when when It gets plugged in the car will stumble when trying to rev it up and have a rough idle and wont rev up and will stall, I was told the alt is bad I'm not sure what size was on it before but I replaced it with a 120 amp remy and it done the same so i borrowed one from a friend and it started to idle but a little low but it would po stumble and stall out when reved . i called the parts store and had them order another then this morning i put it on it idles low but will shake and pop then stall out dose any one know what is wrong with this car
thanks guys
 

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We would need more info to be sure what the problem could be.

Here is a list of things that could cause the issues, knowing that the alternator is not bad:
- Check engine light: DO you have the light on? If so get the code read from a VAGCOM reader and let us know what it is.
No light? May want to check it anyway.
- Vacuum leak: If any of the vac lines has a leak it could affect idle and fuel delivery.
Get a vacuum tester and some details from newbeetle.org and check for a leak.
- Fuel pump, pump relay: When the car is cold and you open the drivers door the first time you should hear the fuel pump. If you do not hear the fuel pump, then it can be toasted, the fuel filter can be clogged, or the fuel pump relay is dying.
Check fuel pressure at the rail on the engine. It will be right, or not.
- Crank position sensor: This is a magnet that will usually go bad around year 10 on the bugcars. It can cause complete engine failure, intermittent engine failure, or it can be failing and cause the problems you describe.
These can be tested, but it is not a sure thing. If your car is at or near 10 years, pay the $150 and install a new one.
Takes 30 minutes, one bold, and is on the center, side of the engine behind the radiator.
- Air intake system: MAF sensor, and other electronic things connect between the air filter and the intake plenum.
Connectors on good? Dirt in anything? bad wires? Dirty MAF?

That is a partial list off the top of my head.
Let us know what you find, and we can get it figured out.
 

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Alternator bad

what are the sure signs of a bad alternator
A sure sign that the alternator is bad is to put a digital meter on the battery terminals when the engine is running at Idle speed and the meter should read 13.5-14.5 VDC. That tells ya that the alternator is good. Sometimes when the batteries are old and a cell shorts out it pulls the regulator down real bad and so you need to replace the battery asap before it ruins the alternator.
 

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A parts store can "bench test" both the battery and the alternator for you, usually for free (I'd do this first before throwing more parts at the problem). While you're at it, I'd also check for bad grounds (e.g. underneath the battery box) and for bad cable connections that might be causing problems charging.
 
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