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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A little background info. I have a 2000 Beetle with 189,000 on a 2.0 engine. I purchased the car for my kid and as a project car. I purchased it without the motor running and don't have much background info on it.I ran a compression test ( both wet and dry ) but not sure what to make of the results.

Dry test Wet test
Cyl 1 =68 92
Cyl 2 =60 90
Cyl 3 =80 90
Cyl 4 =68 90

The previous owner said he thought that the motor might need a valve job. Can anyone tell me what these numbers are really telling me and is the engine worth messing with or should I just replace it. FYI Fuel pressure and spark all seem ok. I just can't get the thing to start.
 

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Hey, here are the specs; from the service manual:

Compression Check:

Specifications New: 10 to 13 bar (145 to 189 psi)

Wear limit: 7.5 bar (109 psi)

Maximum permissible difference between all cylinders: 3 bar (43.5 psi)


Here is the compression test procedures; if you want to look them over (click "next" for other pages):

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Beetle L4-2.0L (AEG) (2000) > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information > Specifications

Based upon the above specifications; it would seem you are under the "wear limit" of 109 psi; so, you would be considered as "low compression". When you say "wet" vs. "dry"; are you referring to adding oil to the cylinders? If that is the case; traditionally, that would point to rings (if the compression went up). I think; what I would do next, is use a leak down tester, to determine... WHERE the problem is. These can be rented or purchased from most auto parts stores or places like harbor freight. You do need; access to compressed air to use the tool.

This will pinpoint; the problem and you can make your repair process decisions, from there.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=leak+down+test

On the "no start" issue; have you checked, for correct fuel pressure?

Here are the testing procedures; for fuel pressure. (click "next" for other pages):

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...essure_vacuum_and_temperature_specifications/

Also, before all of that; I would scan the car for trouble codes with a volkswagen compatible scan tool. You can get some cheap ones on amazon or go all the way with VCDS from Ross Tech.

(low end code reader VAS450 under $50, higher end: live data/coding capability Foxwell NT500 $200)

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...d-keywords=vag+scanner&rh=i:aps,k:vag+scanner

VCDS: Ross Tech (the industry standard in factory VW level scan tool; clone of the VW 1552 factory scan tool $250-$350) Note: requires Windows based PC to run.

http://www.ross-tech.com/index.html
 

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I ran a compression test ( both wet and dry ) but not sure what to make of the results.

Dry test Wet test
Cyl 1 =68 92
Cyl 2 =60 90
Cyl 3 =80 90
Cyl 4 =68 90
When you ran the test, was the battery fully charged? If the battery is not strong, the engine will turn over too slowly and you will get a low reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, the battery was fully charged for the test. I'm going to try a leak down test and see what that tells me. If the rings are bad I should get air out of the oil fill tube right?
 

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This post might be helpful; the problem might be a bad head gasket. I would ask the previous owner when the timing belt was done last; worse case, they let the timing belt go and the valves are bent. A complete rebuild for a 2.0 cylinder head cost between $500 and $800. If it were me, I would go ahead and pull the head, rather than waste time and money testing for a bad cylinder head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I finally got some time to work on this. I did a ******* leakdown test by just hooking up an air line to each cylinder. I put about 40psi into each cylinder and each time was able to hear and feel air coming out of the oil dip stick tube. I was not able to tell if any was coming out of the air intake or the exhaust but I don't think there was. My assumption is the rings are bad and probably best to replace the engine. Any thoughts or suggestions? I don't want to dump a ton of money into the car so I am thinking an new (used) motor is the way to go and try to swap it myself. I have never done a motor swap but I feel that I am fairly handy and know how to follow directions and use a wrench. Again, I truly appreciate any thoughts, ideas comments or suggestions.
 
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