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Invest in the hardtop. I bought the one from robins the guy above was talking about, but the problem with that is if you go to a carwash it will take off the natural coating and then you have leek problems like I do now. I have some black mold issues in the trunk now I have to take car of. So, do I buy the wedding ring? Or the top?
 

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Are you using a vw scan tool or a multimeter?


Here is a video showing vcds live data; indicating the switches working correctly:



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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Btw, I have both the rear side panels that house the flaps off , will that keep in convertible top from operating? Obviously, I know I will get error messages relating to these.

Robert


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Good question, we have had the flaps continuously break on the convertibles, later vw deleted these. So, many have removed the flaps but left things plugged in and in those cases are able to have the top function (so things are plugged in; not disconnected).


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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
As expected the f171 was faulty and has been replaced, but I have some minor repairs to do with the rear panels so I can't say either way if the problems are all fixed at this point. Right now the top won't go up or down, but that could be because the flaps and panels are disconnected.

Hence my original question



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Well, i would do a hard reset of the ecu and hook electrical things back up, even with things taken apart, like door panels removed and try testing from there.


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Although I know the F171 switch was bad, I still can't open the top. Of course, I still have the side panels with flaps disconnected and I suspect it's from the flaps being disconnected. In the process I found this plug with a broken wire that plugs into the right flap solenoid. Does anyone know a part number to order pins?

Plug 6q0972706

Maybe 000979255E ???

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Your VW dealers parts dept, can sell you a yellow “repair wire”; which VW provides for factory style repairs, the repair wire, comes with two crimped terminal ends, on one wire. You can remove the old wires from the plug housing and insert the new terminal wires and use a butt connector to finish off the repair.


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Actually, I had a jumper wire left from a previous repair that has the terminal attached. Thanks for the idea, I just have one wire to repair and I really didn't want to replace the whole plug.



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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think I finally found the real reason for some of the issues on the convertible top.

It seems a really stupid previous owner didn't take the time to replace the female pin in the plug I'm fixing. Instead, they stripped an inch of insulation and shoved the wires in the plug. The male pin must of connected ok for a while.

In the photo below, you can see the stripped wire. Also note that the other wires are insulated with painter's tape.

Robert
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