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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to fix gf's blue bitch, thats what i'm calling this thing cause EVERYTHING is a bigger pita then it needs to be. SO this little plastic hose seems to go in with just an oring thats 20x3mm? I've seen some say you can just slide it out and replace the ring without having to detach it from around the block where it connects, is this true or will just lead it to leak and likely crack as i do? IS this just a leak from the ring or does the whole pipe have to be replaced? $3 fixes are a lot nicer then $100 ones.
 

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I do not know the 2.0l very well, but from the picture and knowing what I know about German cars, if the tube is plastic, plan on replacing it. Plastics under the hood after 10+ years really get brittle and end up breaking either when you remove it or of course about 6 months after you replace the O-ring.

Note that usually you put the O-ring on the tube then carefully insert the tube, suggest you buy at least 3 O-rings in case you cut an O-ring when installing the new tube.

You might see if this link has the O-ring sizes and use this link to see if you can find the best pricing on a pipe. Although an Audi part pricing tool, this part may be used on an Audi and VW.

OEM VW Parts & Accessories | Volkswagen Parts 2GO

BMW Part Number Price Comparison for Windows & Mac
 

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When installing coolant o-rings, my dad told me to use a tiny bit of plumber's grease on the o-ring before installing. Make sure to use the kind safe for rubber o-rings. It helps the o-ring slide into place without tearing. A small container of this stuff costs a few dollars from the plumbing section of a hardware store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finally got around to it this past weekend. That was a lot of fun. As it turns out the hose was actually metal. It was just the ring as i replaced it and its sealed up for 3 days so far. The original oring was shot so got one from the dealer N 903 653 02 about $2.50. Just a quick how to going off memory.

tools:
6mm hex, 5 mm hex
10mm socket, 13mm socket 15mm socket.
oring safe lube.

start by disconnecting the secondary air pump hose, careful mine were brittle and actually broke one.
remove the 3 10mm nuts around the secondary air bracket, they connect to rubber bumpers that were all old and torn. dormant sells a replacement set on amazon for $16 vs $30 at auto zone/ orielly.
use 6mm hex to remove air pump bracket, 1 on front 2 on side
unplug ignition coil wires and harness (more plastic that can break)
remove ignition coil (3) 5mm hex bolts
follow the metal pipe and on the side you will find a little 10mm nut hidden away next to the plastic distribution pipe that holds your temp sensor.
remove the 3 bolts and 1 nut on the ignition coil mount (the nut holds the hose in place) longest bolt goes on bottom
now it should be free and able to slide back. Be gentle here as its going to push up against the plastic housing. To much pressure and you may break that or bust its seal to the block which means more work.
At that point i was able to back the pipe out enough to get the old oring off and new one on with a little jewlers screwdriver. (here you may have clearance issues with he knock sensors. they are just a singe 13 or 15mm bolt) pretty easy to remove and give you more space.)
Apply lube to oring and put it back in the hole.
reassemble in reverse and congrats, you now hold coolant again.
 

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Cool, glad you got it fixed! If you don't want to spend the typical $50-$75 on the air injection hose; you might consider some hose that looks/acts pretty much identical (called "sump discharge hose"), from your local hardware store. I swapped out mine; as they kept cracking on me and they have been fine, ever since and it only cost me $7! Check out this thread; for more info:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/104617-what-hose-part.html
 
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