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Discussion Starter #1
I have a massive coolant (runs out as fast as you can fill it.) at the engine oil filter/cooler unit. To remove it I had to remove the front clip (per instructions for radiator change out). I finally removed the offending unit only to NOT find an obvious gasket breach of a size to explain the coolant loss. Connecting hose was intact. Before buying a replacement unit, any thoughts? Much thanks. BB
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Billymade: Thanks for the prompt reply. Although I have the equipment to do so, I felt that after observing water exiting the block beneath the oil filter/cooler at the same rate I was introducing it to the surge tank @ 2 gal/min, the hope of building air pressure to detect a possible hissing seemed a fool's errand. As I posses large and unwieldy hands I abandoned trying to remove the assy with the rad in place. Using rad r&r guidance I removed the front clip, detached the core support and pitched the rad assy fwd. I removed the 5 fasteners and hose to the cooler and removed the unit. Though the O ring seals no longer stood proud of the machined surface, I could not imaging water leaking past the sealing surface at the prodigious flow rate I witnessed.
Thoughts?
Much thanks
BB
 

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Is this the assembly area; you are referring to?

I would assume; the needed seals, would be #3 and #15, in the exploded view?

 

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My only other thought; is that the waterpump is leaking out of the weep hole and it looked like it was coming out of the oil cooler/block. I guess, after you replaced the seals, everything back together and get the coolant filled; you could do a cooling system pressure test and see if the leak is still there. If it is, then; at that point you would want to pinpoint the location of it and I would see, if it is coming out of the waterpump, weep hole, where coolant comes out when the internal bearing/seal are worn out/damaged.

Service Bulletin: weep hole and waterpump replacement procedure:


Let us know, the results of your seals/gasket replacement and we can go from there. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your thoughts. As the possibility of a 2 gal/min leak from the water pump weep hole, which it located a good 12-14 inches from the point where my eyeballs observed the waterfall cascading from behind and below the oil filter/oil cooler assy, I will put that theory to bed. I will replace assy and/or piece #3 and will advise.
Regards
BB
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Any updates?
Hello again, Billy: I believe it is incumbent on those asking advice to do a follow up. Here is mine. Before that, I want to state that I understand that those offering assistance must assume that the party seeking advice must be assumed to be a newbie. In my case, I'm a retired govt executive that has been wrenching for over 50 years as a source of relaxation and to maintain some mental balance. So...
As stated, the leak was traced to the oil filter mounting assembly. To remove the assembly, my research indicated that the 'replace radiator' scenario would be required to access the oil filter assy. I find that each hour of research might well save several hours of stabbing blindly in the dark. Resources like NEWBEETLE.ORG. are a Godsend and responders sit with the angels. So, to access the oil filter assy, I needed to remove the front clip (not as onerous as it sounds). Get out your Torx bits a 12 point bits and an hour later the front wings, grill, wheels, wheel wells, headlights should be in a neat pile on the floor. To access the side of the engine, remove 6 bolts retaining the core support and bumper shock absorbers, bonnet release cable (more on that later) and rotate the assy forward, Remove one electrical fitting, one water feed hose, one vacuum hose, and the 5 fixing 12 point fasteners, After freeing the assy, look for obvious O ring failures. Don't despair if there isn't a failure that jumps right out at you. As I mentioned earlier, the O ring assys were hardened and failed to stand proud of the oil filter assy mounting flange. Here is where it gets interesting. Searching Amazon, I found a complete OEM assy for less than $100 U.S.which came complete with the O rings. I contacted Timmons VW in Garden Grove Ca. and requested an estimate to R&R (remove and replace) the failed piece ( They estimated $2600 with $1100 of that figure going toward replacement parts. This included $650 for the assy and $140 for the O rings. The O rings come with the $650 assy, so I'm sure it was just an oversight when they attempted to double bill for the O rings (not!). So, to wrap it up, with 8 hours labour ( 5 to research and 3 to wrenching and cursing) the car is back to it former sweet running self) Here is the promised postscript regarding the bonnet release cable. If, like yours truly, you disconnect the cable at the bonnet catch and then close the bonnet, welcome to Hell. After several hours of the aforementioned stabbing blindly in the dark trying to trip the release, I eventually dreamed of the solution. Prize off the bonnet emblem, then, using a 3 inch hole saw, bore out a hole in both the bonnet and sub-structure. Trigger the now painfully obvious release tab, install the cable, and hot glue the logo/ornament back in place. Now is the time to show your rebellious side and glue it in upside down :)
So much thanks again. Hopefully my lessons learned will be of some help to future adventurous wrench monkeys
With gratitude
BB
 

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I much enjoyed that story. Thanks for letting us know how it turned out and the solution, Wrenching can be both a love-hate, relaxation-frustration past time.
Now you're all set to help the next guy.
 
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