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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my brake light came on in my 99, and with the fluid up to snuff and no other obvious issues, I am going to assume that the front brakes are in need of replacement as the wear sensors are probably tripped.

As such, I am looking at doing a brake job in the next couple of months. I know ECS tuning has several good kits for front and rear (and I know other companies do as well - I have simply ordered several things from ECS so they are familiar to me).

One thing that popped up was the cross drilled and slotted rotors you can get. I am certainly going with the Hawk HPS pads, but the rotors - do they really make a difference?

For me, the car is a daily driver. With that being said, I live in Seattle. Lots of hills, lots of traffic... Lots of stopping. So stopping is important to me, but it's not like I am racing it on a track or anything.

So I was wondering, how much of a difference do the rotors really make?
 

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Yay!! Finally got a Bug!!
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Something that jumped out at me about this - as far as I know Beetles don't have wear sensors . You might want to check further into the light before just replacing brakes!!
 

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From the New Beetles and VW's I have worked on; they do: (some may not; I don't know if this is related to the trim level or not)

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Beetle L4-1781cc 1.8L Turbo (APH) (1999) > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pad Wear Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instruction

Here is a diy; for the front brakes. If there is a sensor; it is on the left (drivers side) disk brake pad:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...ms-new-beetle/56822-front-brake-pads-diy.html

@ 1:55 you can see the wire/connector for the wear indicator:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1tGngg8omc
 

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Yay!! Finally got a Bug!!
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That's why I said as far as I know . My old 98 didn't have the sensors . I do know about the sensors as I worked for a short period at Land Rover . They all had the sensors and I had to replace them every time I did brakes (which on a LR is quite often!!) . The newer ones may have added them and ididnt know about it .
 

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Gustav
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Honestly Cross drilled and slotted have advantages as well as disadvantages. They stop faster and help disperse heat and gasses from the rotor but they are not able to be re-surfaced "turned" and when drilled they are prone to stress cracking from heat.
I have a performance built and tuned Beetle Turbo S and I have drilled and slotted brakes installed. I do not drive it daily and when it's driven it is mostly quite spirited driving: high speed quick braking from 100+ down to 30 mph on twisting road race courses.
When I drive my wife's Beetle Convertible with stock brakes I do notice a difference but they work very well.
Would I install drilled and slotted brakes on my wife's Beetle?
Simply no as it is a daily driver and not driven hard enough daily to justify the upgrade.
You know your driving style and if it's worth it to you go for it, but for a daily driven Beetle in Seattle traffic it really won't make any noticeable difference in stopping as you are not over heating the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the heads up guys. Yea, it sounds like slotted and cross drilled are not for me. Better braking is always good, but in this instance probably not necessary.
 
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