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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning to replace speakers in my 99 NB. Looking to get infinity kappa 5 1/4 component set for front.

Question: is there a crossover in there already? Can I just stick the new woofer in the door and tweeter in the pillar to factory wiring and call it good? The infinity component set will come with a crossover of course, but can I just skip it and just replace the speakers only?
 

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Does your beetle have Monsoon audio?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It does not have the Monsoon system. Had std factory audio, but replaced the head unit a few years ago but never replaced the speakers. Now I’ve got a dead door woofer and just plan to replace all 6 speakers.
 

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In that case I would go with the passive crossover that comes with your components. With the factory radio gone and no monsoon amp you don't have anything protecting your tweets (and woofers to be frank) from frequencies they shouldn't be handling.
 
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what i did with my 99 with a added bluetooth deck
for the tweets just get ones with built in crossover, i got 2 ways for the doors, and woofers (with built in crossover) for the rear and added tweets to the back...
the built in crossover is usually just a frequency diode/capacitor that only lets certain frequencies through (you can even add the diode/capacitor thats set to the frequency you want to go to the speaker)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If I use the crossover that comes with the infinity speaker set, I assume the front speakers need to be rewired? Does the factory wiring just simply split off to both speakers in the front circuit (tweeter and woofer) and no factory crossover or equivalent?
 

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If I use the crossover that comes with the infinity speaker set, I assume the front speakers need to be rewired? Does the factory wiring just simply split off to both speakers in the front circuit (tweeter and woofer) and no factory crossover or equivalent?
its not split at the radio connection, nor at ether speaker from what i saw, i figured its split somewhere behind the dash cluster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I was able to answer my own question:

Taking the speakers out I see they are both wired to the stereo and each front speaker has its own built in crossover.

My solution to the issue was to get some Rockford Fosgates with the tweeter having a built in crossover then I don’t need to worry about rewiring the front speakers to accommodate a formal crossover.

I’m sure they are not the best speakers but should be good enough, and better than stock.
 

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@GranTorinoSport

Thanks so much for following up on your own post and answering your own question, I'm caught in the same predicament, wondered the same thing, and found your posts helpful. Might you be able to tell us which Rockford Fosgate woofer/tweeter component set you bought? These ones seem to have the same built-in crossover.

UPDATE: The surrounds tore away from the cones on my New Beetle's door speakers. For replacements, I purchased Rockford Fosgate R1675-S R1 components, which also have the integrated crossovers as the ones I mention above. The New Beetle's tweeters were still fine, so I left them in place and only swapped the door speakers out for now. The driver side speaker wires weren't working prior to this swap, so I ran a new pair of wires to the door and from there I ran another pair of wires up to the tweeter in the A-pillar. I reused the existing driver side door speaker spacer by tearing out the old speaker and prongs attached to the spacer. The spacer remains then fit the R1675-S R1's like a glove. Here's a before pic:
Automotive tire Camera lens Camera accessory Digital camera Reflex camera

and after picture:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Bumper
 

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Capa are good speakers, over priced. The RF speakers are good too. Personally, I would replace the tweets too. Why buy good stuff and only use half of it. The factory tweets are very cheap and won't take much power. The RF tweet is designed to be used with the set. Clean sound from your doors and the factory tweets are muddy and won't keep up with the RF. Use the crossover that came with the speakers. You can see what I've done with mine. Mines a little bit more than replacing the factory speakers 😉 I had to do a Lot of research on the car. 2015 beetle hatchback. Before I got into it. If you ran a new wire for the tweets, I would of replaced them while it was apart? Weird that you couldn't use the factory wire's. You should of been able to use it. Did you connect the factory wire to the input on the cross over? From there you can use the factory wire going to the factory tweets and just run a new wire from the crossover to the door speaker. Also, IDK if that model of RF has an adjustment on the crossover so you can dial in the tweets. Make them softer or louder. Something like + - but I don't think that that model has that option. Did you use a harness to put the new radio in? Or did you cut into the factory harness? You will notice a lack of bass by replacing your speakers. Those RF don't really have good mid bass. I have DS18 component 6.5's , that's the factory size inside the car for the front and back speakers. In the rear I have DS18 3 way 6.5. there's tweeters also back there. I didn't use them because I have 3 way. I am going to be replacing all the inside speakers with 8" component set's. Idk what brand of speakers I am going to put in it when I do. But they won't be from a brand that specializes in SPL, bass competitions are only for a brief burp. Loud, yes. Handle a lot of power, yes. But the crispness and sq isn't there for me using those everyday daily driver. There's plenty of room for the 8" speakers. I just have to make an adapter for them. I know I sound like I know everything, I've just have experience with the radio system. I have had to make a lot of things myself because it's just not on the market. The Jetta stuff doesn't cross over like some clam. I've tried. But you can see what I've had to do for mine. I will have to run new wires for the inside speakers. The factory wire's won't handle the power that I'm going to be running next year. I have a goodie list going. I've waisted a lot of money trying to get the sound I want because I didn't have a plan really. But if you need anything, holler. O. I'm going to be running an active crossovers for the inside speakers. That way I have control over each speaker and tweeter. So a DSP is what I'm going to use. It will be a 6 channel output for the front speakers. That's a channel for each front speaker which will be a 3way set up up front and I'm really not sure what I'm going to do with the rear speakers. Those are just mainly for fill in. But I am running a SQ, sound quality, system and not for bass only. I can make your vision blurry with the bass, but I don't really listen to it that way. More of a balance between the highs, mids and lows. If you have the option to set your crossovers up. Set the drop off hzs from the sub and match that to the drop off point of the sub. Example... Say your sub is set so nothing above 80 Hz plays on the sub. Now set your cabin speakers to pick up we're the sub stops at 80hz.if your RF came with paper work. It should be in there. If not, you can look at those speakers online and find out the specs for them. So you don't have dead spots in your bass because you aren't getting those Hz in-between the sub and the inside speakers. To find what Hz is best for your inside speakers to play. Then go from there until you get the sound you want. Also. If you have an eq built-in to the radio. I would set that how you want it. Then slowly turn the HU up until it starts getting distorted and sends a clipped signal to the speakers, bad thing. It's like sending a dirty signal to the speakers. Just listen to the sound difference as you turn it up. Once it stops getting louder, the rest of the volume is just trashy signal. If you have an amp, I can explain that to you if you need it. I can also tell you how to get more mid bass out of your front door speaker's. Once you find that point on your HU. You can adjust the EQ to for the best sound quality at the loudest point on the HU before it clips. How ever, if you never listen to it that loud, find the volume you like and set it up for that volume. But if you hear that song and you want to jam louder than you have it set for. It's not going to sound good and will more than likely be sending a clipped, dirty signal out because the speakers won't hold up to that. It may take you a few tries to get it set for the music you listen to. And a lot of people say just do the upsidedown EQ setting. That's were the far left, bass and the far right side of the EQ is all the way up and when you get to the center of the EQ. It's down like an upside down triangle. You don't have to. Put the EQ on the flat setting and go from there. Everything is flat and not tuned. Once you find that volume point on your HU, you can adjust each one up or down until it sounds good to YOU. You drive it. Not the one's telling you what they like 😉 it sounds like a bunch of junk to do, but you can tell the difference between the two setups. Most won't/can't tell the difference between the two setups because they are so use to the factory radio sound in car they drive or they don't care and just want to make it louder. But I'm very picky as you can tell. But as long as it sounds good to you, that's the most important thing. And you don't have to break the bank to do it. In the end, it's all about what you want out of your radio. You may not like mine. But to me, I like it. So don't put something in that's not what you are looking for. Trust me, it gets expensive if you don't.👍 Remember that just because it says that the speaker is 80watts, doesn't mean that it will take 80watts all day long. That's peak power in short burst. Unless it says something like... 35watts normal with a 80watt Max. Also if you buy a set of speakers and the box says that they are 400watt speakers. That's the max power of the speakers. Now divide that by two. That's what each speaker will do. Then if they're component speakers, part of that wattage to that speaker is for the tweeter. So don't let the high wattage print fool you. Example. 400 watts. That's 200 max for each speaker. So you may only be getting like a 30/70 split if you have component setup. Then look at the recommendation from the factory on the speaker's to see what they say about it. Normal power handling and max power handling. If you run max power all the time, you'll trash your new speakers in no time. It's more than just putting new speakers in. Well to me anyway 😸
 

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Here's what I've done. I think that there's another thread I had. But they were basically about the same thing. So I just tried to stick with one thread. It's easier to keep it in one thread than multiple one's on the same basic topic. Plus the information is all in the one thread. So if someone is having a similar problem, all the stuff you've tried and found to work. It's all there. You can just keep updating the thread. 👍🙂
Right Billymade? 😆
 
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