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You can look up the codes; on the ross tech wiki:


For example that one; references, this:

Possible Causes
  • Battery Faulty
  • Charging System Problem

    So, I would do a hard reset; of the ecu and then, possibly, run down to a auto parts store and have the whole charging system tested, confirm everything is working as it should. As you noted, the trouble codes build up; they won't go away, until you clear them. Clear, test and take a test drive, then rescan, see what comes up.
I was getting the same ECU voltage code plus a few other's. But mine wouldn't do anything. If you remember. I tried replacing parts to try to fix it. Also. If he is replacing parts. Are they OEM parts or after market one's. I learned the hard way about non factory parts. I understand that he was having this issue before replacing parts. But could that cause an issue because even though the parts are new. The picky VW may not like it. Also, after I got a VW scanner. I was able to clear the code's and then read again for the same code's. Also with my 2015 beetle. When I disconnect the battery. I have some lights come on that go away after driving a bit. My windows won't auto up and down for a bit either. The others I have to manually reset. I wonder how much of the systems he can read and if he has live data reading. That will tell him what the load is on the system among other things with the charging system. His is an 08 and mines a2015. But it might help him out with out throwing parts at it like I was doing. But my fix was to replace the ECU relay. But I had to replace the whole fuse block under the hood because the relay is built into it. 馃槖
 

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Discussion Starter #23
With the battery drained and disconnected I imagine I am going to get more codes. Probably need to reset everything and recheck the codes
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Still very limited on time. Got a couple of guys off sick right now so I'm covering extra but I was able to check something else. Got home and charged the battery again. Car started up without issue. I disconnected the wire off the battery fuse box to the alternator and left the car overnight. Every morning the battery has been dead except this morning. Started up without any issue. So, I think y'all were right about the alternator. Probably a bad diode plate draining the battery overnight. As far as the dash lights going out, hopefully it's from the alternator as well.
250878
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks. I've watched the video. My problem is more than resistance though. I will probably change the cable too.
 

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Have you had the charging system tested; most auto parts stores, will do this for free. Testing with everything in the car and it running; is better, then taking parts off and having them tested. Your alternator cable, looks rough; this is a very common issue. VW sells new alternator charge harnesses ($100+?) but making your own, as shown in the video, is cheaper and you can make it a larger gauge, compared to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I haven't taken the car up to the parts store to have it checked yet. Schedule just hasn't permitted it. I was hoping to go today after work but it looks like a downpour as I get closer to home. I saw the video where he was talking about the cable. 'll just go to a hardware store by a cable and ends.
 

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Yeah, I am in the process, of making cables for my 1.8T; I went to my local Carquest/Advance Auto. They sell cable by the foot and raw cable ends; if you have crimping capability for the large cables. Some places like Carquest and Napa Auto; will crimp and make cables for you. I may, make new ground cables as well (aka: the big 3; upgrade); I'm trying to get rid of any resistance, degraded cables in a 18 year old VW and get my charging voltage, where it should be.

Some, have gotten custom made cables; from a place online called Innovative Wiring and they had positive, improved results.


Because, of the cost; I thought, I would try to make them myself.
 

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I believe that you said that you had a scanner. If it does live data reading. And it has the variables that tell you. You can see the whole charging system. Load % and many other variables that deal with the charging system. Just a thought. But if you are disconnecting it every day, then it might, I'm not sure, but it would seem to me that basically means that it's resetting it every day. I wouldn't know, but I would see/research if that might create a new issue or something. From what I've been seeing about the ground on VW is already really good. I know that I have a 0/1g ground from the battery to the body. I am also going to be doing the big 3, well 4 for me because I'm doing it for the audio in my car, so I'm doing the big 3 plus upgrading my battery to a yellow top battery. I will need to do the alternator when I can afford to have one made for my year car. But anyway, if you are curious about if the grounding point is good. You can check it with a mm. But the negative cable has to be disconnected so that the body isn't "live" by being grounded. I think that you use ohms to check it. I can find out if you are interested. But your ground should be as close to .0 as possible. I have a main ground that reads .01 ohms. Well you have to subtract what the mm say's it has... IE.. mine show's .02. so when I test ground. It's .03 - the .02. so .01 is the reading for that spot you are testing. O, bear metal 馃ぃ. Anyway. Just an idea to look at. Keep us updated on how she's or he's doing 馃憤
 

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Discussion Starter #31
My scanner is a cheaper one so it does do live scanning. And yes, it is resetting each time I disconnect the cable. Everything is pointing towards the alternator and I believe I have some days off this week so one way or another I'll get it back on the road.
 

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My scanner is a cheaper one so it does do live scanning. And yes, it is resetting each time I disconnect the cable. Everything is pointing towards the alternator and I believe I have some days off this week so one way or another I'll get it back on the road.
馃憤 does it do the charging system? Like what the load % is and stuff like that? Live voltage being put out? If it does do the load %. I would turn everything on high and see what it is. Everything. Lights on high beam. Ac high, if you have heated seats. High. Everything. See what the load is with everything turned on. And what's on normally when driving every day. I know that our cars are different years. But the max load on mine with everything on high plus the radio system up high, is about 32% + - . Normal is around 28 % + -. And around 13.6 volts at idle. Not sure what you should have, but may give you a reference to look at.
 

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Where do you live? There might be someone around there that might could help you. I know that we have a thread for that topic. But I don't know if it's active or not. Good luck with the Bug 馃挭. Keep us updated. 馃憤
 

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A alternator pull, is a decent amount of work; if you can, get the car down to a auto parts store, for a whole charging system test. I would recommend that first, before a total tear down (leaving the car disabled); a test of everything is best, rather then, having to keep remove things and not find the problem.
 

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I haven't had much of a chance to read through it yet. If I get a day off, I'm pulling the alternator and having it checked.
If it's possible. I would take the car to the auto parts store and have it checked out. Like billymade said, it's a pain to get off. No since in taking it out and just have to put it back in if it's good.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I understand what y'all are saying and I appreciate the help. I realize it's a big job, so much so I'm considering having someone else do the job. But what else is in the charging system? Alternator, belt, and wire from alt to battery. The test at an auto parts store will check volts and amps under a load and at idle. I know how it works, I worked there for 16 yrs and we even had a better tester than what they use now. Yesterday at idle, I had 12.3 volts. When I turned on the AC, it dropped to 11.9. Plus, the battery drains overnight with the alternator wire attached to the battery. When I removed the wire overnight, the battery didn't die. The tester at AutoZone or O'Reilly's won't tell me any more than that. At this point with low voltage to the battery, I need the alternator separate from the car. On a bench, they can tell me if a diode plate is bad. Or at least it used to. The only other test I can see to do now is check directly at the back of the alternator to tell the voltage but that doesn't rule out the battery drain. Plus I haven't found a way to get to the back of the alternator safely with the car running
 

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Ya it's tight down there. Sounds good 馃憤. That is low for the voltage. Even with nothing on. I understand the reasoning behind taking it off now. This sounds like a bunch of work, but you could take the tire off and the inter fender liner to get better access to the alternator.. the liner comes out pretty easy. But that gives you better access to it. Just FYI 馃槈 馃榿
 
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