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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Well the congratulations appear to be premature; I have developed a leak on the passenger side :rant2: and it only does it after it has reached normal operating temperature.

So I either I did not fully the seat the water pump before bolting it in or the "new" pump is bad. Tonight I will take it all apart again. :banghead:
 

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Well the congratulations appear to be premature; I have developed a leak on the passenger side :rant2: and it only does it after it has reached normal operating temperature.

So I either I did not fully the seat the water pump before bolting it in or the "new" pump is bad. Tonight I will take it all apart again. :banghead:
NOOOOO

say it isn't so! :calvin:
 

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Man,You have the worst luck. I think Murphy does'nt like you.

Hopefully its something simple and you will be done with this car. I think you would enjoy driving it for a while instead of working on it.:D
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Man,You have the worst luck. I think Murphy does'nt like you.

Hopefully its something simple and you will be done with this car. I think you would enjoy driving it for a while instead of working on it.:D
Yep, he/she has shown an interest in me and I believe that he/she works for the "Adjustment Bureau"...

... anyway the rectangle in the pic is where the coolant is coming from and the circle represents where on the oil pan it is dripping from. The hotter the coolant gets the faster it leaks. It does not leak until the blue goes out. Tomorrow I begin the tear down one more time.
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Got the new, new pump put in last night. Even though it is a metal impeller, a point of failure has been designed into it.

Apparently when I put the first pump in I did not seat it properly and a portion of the o-ring got pinched between the block and water pump housing; which once it got hot, the edge of the block cut through it.

I will post pics of both tonight.
 

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Bummer...

But I have had bad luck with aftermarket pumps with metal impellers, all started leaking.
I replaced three (one Graf, one Hepu, one NAPA) within one year in my daughters first beetle before I went back to OEM VW pumps and have only used them since.


Krash
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
OK, been driving it since Sunday and there are no leaks and no warning lights; so I would now like to call this project finished.

So my next project is a TB/WP Kit for my son '99 2.0L.
 

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OK, been driving it since Sunday and there are no leaks and no warning lights; so I would now like to call this project finished.

So my next project is a TB/WP Kit for my son '99 2.0L.
You can do that one with your eyes closed and one hand behind your back....:D

K
 

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OK, been driving it since Sunday and there are no leaks and no warning lights; so I would now like to call this project finished.

So my next project is a TB/WP Kit for my son '99 2.0L.
Well after this project you can do your son's car blindfolded and with one hand tied behind your back :D
 

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leaking pump

Glad to see you are officially now successful..LOL :D I kinda saw that when I did my water pump this past Fall that there was a design flaw in the o-ring or it could leak , so I just took it slow and seated the pump adjusting the screws real slow.I think that if you put some kinds of lube sealant on the o-ring it might help out for next time. Also if you smooth out the hole where the pump go's into it helps out to make the o-ring slide in strait I think- just a few fyi suggestions for the next guy doing his water pump. I am just glad mine didn't leak, not yet atlest. :eek:hnoes: It could have happened to any of us.
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Glad to see you are officially now successful..LOL :D I kinda saw that when I did my water pump this past Fall that there was a design flau in the o-ring or it could leak , so I just took it slow and seated the pump adjusting the screws real slow.I think that if you put some kinds of lube sealant on the o-ring it might help out for next time. Also if you smooth out the hole where the pump go's into it helps out to make the o-ring slide in strait I think- just a few fyi suggestions for the next guy doing his water pump. I am just glad mine didn't leak, not yet atlest. :eek:hnoes: It could have happened to any of us.
You are right, my problem was where the o-ring seats to the block; it was not smooth. I ran my fingers around the hole surface and could feel what was probably left over o-ring material from the original water pump. After using some very fine sand paper, the new, new pump slid in without any difficulty.

And yes, I can now do any TB/WP with one hand tied and one eye patch on either eye! :rolleyes: ;) :D
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
OK, I have the door handle replacements to replace the broken factory originals and I got the pricey ones from Dieselgeek ... the weight of just one surprised me.

Here are the Diesel Geek numbers ...

L/H and R/H Set $ 269.00
Shipping $ 13.90
Total $ 282.90

You can get either the left or right hand for $139.00.

For those looking for an more cost effective solution; perhaps this door handle solution is what you are looking for and here is the link for the door handle covers. Diesel Geek also has the DIY's so you can install them yourself.
 

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D2Beetle, any update on your long term use of these aluminum door pulls? They look like a extremely well made and designed piece; all the hardware/brackets look top notch! How have them been for you; in day to day use, do they ever get TOO HOT to handle (pardon the pun! I couldn't help myself)? :confused: I live in New Mexico and the desert out here gets crazy hot (especially, when the windows are rolled up in the hot sun); I wonder if I would get fried from the metal! Any info, issues with heat or comfort concerns (ribbed machines finish), grabbing day to day and experiences, appreciated! :)

(P.S.: I've been lusting after a number of diesel geeks products (wish I had an extra $1k lying around): e.g.: panzer plate, aluminum door pulls, sigma 6 shifter, etc.)
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Have not installed them yet; too many yard activities and I am remolding the upstairs bathroom due to a leak. :( They are next on my "To-Do List".

Although that is something that I will check and the weather has not been hot enough anyway; low to mid 80's currently. Need to get closer to July; however I do believe that if they are in direct sunlight, for any length of time they should get hot.
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well the Beetle Saga continues ... I am sure many of us have had to deal with the SAP (Secondary Air Pump) Hoses (Plastic Tubes actually). These plastic tubes are a pain because I cannot find them at any parts store around here and GAP told me they are a dealer part. So I went to the dealer and had a partial coronary, here are the part numbers and dealer prices ...

Small Tube 06A-131-372 (from Pump to Combi Valve)
List Price: $76.41
My Price: $69.00

Big Tube 06A-131-126 (from Pump to Air Box)
List Price: $81.93
My Price: $74.00

I also noticed that the small "L" shaped vacuum hose (in this pic) that comes off of the intake, was split and here is its part number and dealer price ...

Hose 06A-133-264-S
List Price: $54.33
My Price: $48.75

So my parts total after taxes was $209.49! :crazy:
 

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I have replaced a couple of these hoses and seeing how I live in the desert, they get brittle quickly and break. Every VW of the Mark IV era and beyond; has these hoses breaking and falling apart! So far; I have used a combination of "foil tape" and electrical tape to keep them functional and kept the SAI system sealed; while, I look for a third party or alternative hose of some sort, that will actually hold up to the heat! I have gone to some auto parts stores; looked online and there are some aftermarket "hoses" that look like they might work (I just have to figure out how to connect the proprietary "ends" that are in the system: by the way, the system is made by Pierburg, I wonder if they sell the hose by the foot or if you can buy the ends by themselves?). I also; was thinking of going down to my local hydraulic hose shop and see if there is something that could work, once and for all. AN fittings and braided hoses are expensive; probably overkill since we aren't actually holding any high pressure fuel or coolant... BUT I would really like to find a solution, that will fix this issue once and for all! I am still researching possibilities; with the price of the stock hoses, I think we could get creative with some well made hoses or braided type of hoses, still be cheaper than the dealer prices. In the auto parts aftermarket; they are selling some silicone hoses that a accordion type of characteristic to them and also light hoses with a kind of braided covering on them, that might work as well (again, the ends are a issue).

Maybe; we should contact the company, that made this crazy system and tell them, we need better hoses! LOL! :)

Pierburg GmbH

Alfred-Pierburg-Str. 1
41460 Neuss
Germany

http://www.kspg.com/en/divisions/mechatronics/pierburg/
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I to am researching a permanent fix for the SAP Tubes. The two issues that are problematic are the proprietary ends and the 90 degree bends. The only way to extend the life of the tube is to wrap it in some type of insulation tape; which insulates it from the engine heat, slowing the brittle process.

Regarding the door handle install; that is scheduled for this weekend. Had to get a new DIY camera; my old one was killing the batteries; would not hold a charge for long.
 
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