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DIY alternator cable and replacement

6559 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Thejarhead
I've been having problems with the ABS and traction control lights coming on the dashboard. I read this could be a problem with the alternator cable not providing enough power due to corrosion.

This weekend I replaced it with parts from the local auto store. Since the threads I found didn't provide actual sizes, I decided to post it here for your reference. 4-guage alternator cable (mine was labelled 'Starter to switch cable'). This should come with a 3/8" ring terminal lug on both ends that bolt onto the alternator. I measured my old cable to be 49" and they do infact sell 49", but since you need to clip off the other 3/8" ring terminal to crimp on a 1/4" ring terminal lug; I decided to get a 60" cable just in case. I used bolt-cutters to cut the cable to the right length then crimped the 1/4" lug using some large pliers. Then I used heat shrink on both sides to protect the copper wiring.

As far as removal/installation; you need to remove the battery and the upper radiator hose (it isn't necessary to remove the hose, but it makes it a lot simpler because you need to remove the small nut securing the alternator clamp to the alternator. Once the battery tray is removed, you will have access to the alternator cable. Once this out, you need to CAREFULLY cut the cable covering that secures the alternator/AC control wires to the alternator harness and tape them to your new one.

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All you had to do was remove the wires of the 3 wire connectors from a sleeve that holds them with the alternator charge wire?! Are none of the wires in the sleeve tied into the actual alternator charge wire electrically?! Would this mean I don't have to remove my harness at all. If the 3 connectors are just held with the charge wire I should be able to just cut the old charge wire without effecting the 3 connector wires?
I’ve not had to perform this particular procedure but that’s what it looks like to me.
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