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I wish I had a shop
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Discussion Starter #1
I had posed the question earlier this week, but as the forums were locked the next day I will pose it again.

In reference to this thread http://forums.newbeetle.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=43730

I was curious how many other people have done this. I can't get myself to pay 140 for the dieselgeek short shift or 150 for the B&M so I think I am going to get the $40 TT shift linkage and then cut down the shifter for a little more reduction.

Does this sound stupid or does it makes sense to do this?
 

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DIESL PWR
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354 Posts
I can't speak for other people, but I did it like two years ago, and I've never looked back. The shifting isn't any rougher, and it certialy doesn't look ghetto-rigged.

Only drawback is, believe me, that sawing is going to take a lot of elbow grease :D
 

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my turbo is bigger!!!!!!!
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looks like u need a saws all
 

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Premium Member
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Shifter

I've had Audi TT shifters on both my NB 1.8T's as well as
The B&M short shifter.
Some say the B&M is just a chopped down shifter, but I have noticable improvement in all factors relative to feel and throw.
Definitely get a TT shift weight - just remember to get the correct part for your car.
 

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my turbo is bigger!!!!!!!
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but the b&m rules bc of the pull up lever
 

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Premium Member
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I don't remember it taking much elbow grease at all, esp. since the middle is hollow.

I plan to do mine tomorrow, by any chance, can I remove the shift boot from my turbo S shift knob? I got a knob off a porsche 911 turbo I want to put on there...but was hoping to use the factory boot.
 

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Registered
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5,793 Posts
That's why I don't like the B&M. :( It ruins that 1 unique vw characteristic of pushing down to get to Reverse.

KC, I believe that would indeed work great. I've got a homebrew shift weight and it works just wonderful.

Deffinately be sure to read this though:
http://dieselgeek.com/a_word_about_transmissions.php

If you're gonna make the mod; you should know what the cons are. It's nothing major, I just don't like sending people in w/o the full knowledge.

Another little thing you can do is get a heavy knob. That'll help reduce the harshness a bit. The increased mass will increase the force delivered.

& the B&M is deffinately not just 'chopped down' if I remember correctly they moved the fulcrum, really making less motion... and shortened the top.

If you have one, I'd recommend a dremmel tool; beats usin' a hacksaw. :p
 

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I wish I had a shop
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Discussion Starter #9
finally did it yesterday. Not a huge difference as I only cut about an 1" off the shift lever. Would recommend a dremel cause even with it it takes a bit. I could only imagine how long it would take with a hacksaw. Ideally I would like to get it low enough that I can rest my hand on the console and shift at the same time. Its still too high to do so right now.

I haven't used glue or pipe clamps to hold anything in place. I don't see why it was needed as nothing moves as it because it was such a tight fit. This way I can take it back off and shorten it a little bit more, maybe another 1/2", and then put it back on.

Definately not what I would call a short shift, but more like what I would have hoped for from the factory.
 

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I'd be careful taking any more than an inch off the shifter inside the car. I have heard of instances where once too much is removed you lose the mechanical advantage of the shifter and its very difficult to engage gears, even a little extra effort in that point will increase chances of missing a gear and buring up some synchros. Just a word of caution is all. ;)

just keep in mind all it is, is a lever, so you need to keep some leverage.
 

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I wish I had a shop
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
ok so I have the TT shift linkage in my hands, but I have been looking for writeups of how to install. The Neuspeed instructions seem over simplified, but seem applicable since it is basically the same part, with different geometry. I read the instructions for the dieselgeek and they seem a lot more involved. Which one is applicable to my situation.


EDIT: Nevermind: Looked at Autotech's site (exactly the same part) and their instructions have better detail and a picture :)
 
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