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Discussion Starter #1
I haven't been able to find out if other people are having this issue.

When you open the door, the glass is supposed to drop ~1" to clear the upper window lip that covers the glass. Here in Chicago, we get a lot of freezing rain, and whenever this happens, the glass will freeze in the closed position and will not drop when you open the door. Then when you try to close the door, the window will get stuck on this upper lip and not seal properly (since it's supposed to be tucked underneath)

I talked to a VW service rep, and he told me it happens occasionally on these Beetles, and on the Passat CC's that have a similar window operation. There is no fix other than spraying the window base with ice-melt and waiting for it to thaw.

Is anyone else having this problem or is it just us? It seems like a nice idea, but being that Volkswagen is a German company, one would think they would expect this sort of thing in that country. Or maybe it was designed with North America in mind where half the country doesn't get these issues?
 

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Normal, unless you take action to counter it, you will have a challenge.

I have a 2003 Beetle Convertible and a 2006 BMW 330 Convertible and both of these windows need to drop to clear the top. If you get ice on the window, it cannot drop, nothing but physics here.

SO, you either have to scrape the ice, or cover the base of the window so ice/snow will not build up on the bottom edge of the glass.

I would not use ice melt as it may damage the paint?

I would scrape the ice carefully or you have to be proactive and roll up a trash bag in the window to shield the base of the glass. Where you have wind, you also have issue so you may need a weight, string or tape to keep the bag from blowing around. The other option might?? be able to get a 2" roll of blue painters tap and put it along the base of the glass when you park the car.

The other option is to drop the glass slightly so it will clear the edge of the top, but then you may get rain or snow in the car because of the crack at the top of the window.

The issue is convertibles are not really cold weather cars!! Most are garage queens and only driven when the weather is nice. If you daily drive the car, you will have to get creative.

Scotch Blue Painters Tape FTW!

Good luck.
 

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I think Walmart carries (or most auto parts houses) carry "Prestone Ice & Frost Shield" It's a simple spray onto the glass when you're done driving for the day. It seems to help repel frost and ice. We've used it for several seasons with success on our older trucks. Not sure about how it would react to paint(s)? Best to aim for the glass.

If nothing else? It should make for ice removal easier.

S-
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I see, didn't know that about convertibles too! Thanks I'll try those methods if it becomes a further problem, but its my sister's car so I'm not always around to help her fix it.
 

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Anybody try the Prestone Ice and Frost Shield spray or the Prestone Windshield De-Icer spray? Both say they won't hurt the glass or paint finish.
 

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I'm certainly glad I got over my desire for a new beetle when they came out. My 98 in winter I'd say that 3/4 of the time I cannot go through a drive thru window because the windows are frozen shut.

It's ugly anyway, no vase... wtf...

You could paint naked women, beer, guns, and chewing tobacco on the side of the beetle and it still won't be manly and appeal to the manly mans that lap up the garbage from Chevy and Ford they call muscle cars.
 

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Anybody try the Prestone Ice and Frost Shield spray or the Prestone Windshield De-Icer spray? Both say they won't hurt the glass or paint finish.
I've used the Prestone Ice and Frost spray for the last few years on our Bronco. No complaints other then it washes off quickly. The de-icer spray and I do not get along. It tends to add a 'fog' to the inside windshield.

S-
 

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My 3 step process for keeping windows from sticking.

Thoroughly clean glass with Stoner automotive window cleaner from your favorite local autoparts store (better than windex without paint damaging Ammonia). This preps the glass.

Apply Rain-X or Autopel (available at www.tirerack.com). This makes the glass ulter slippery and helps prevent water from bonding to the glass. It also makes removing ice much easier so much so that I've been able to peel sheets of ice 1/4" thick off my windows.

Wipe seals with 91% rubbing alcohol to remove previous oils and dirt build up. Then wipe down with silicone. The fresh rubber will greedily absorb the silicone now that it isn't just being applied on top of a layer of grime. Which prevents water from soaking into that dirt layer and then bonding with your glass making it nearly impossible to lower your windows.

I have been doing this since the 80's on dozens of cars and have had really easy time cleaning my glass all winter long. This winter has been excessively cold and snowy so I was expecting that my prep work would be overwhelmed greatly but even after a foot of snow and -17F morning. I went outside to discover my side windows had no snow or ice build up with my needing to only brush off the back light and windshield.
 

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Hatch won't Latch

I have a similar issue, only with my hatch. The temperature is currently below -30 C and my hatch refuses to latch. My manual says the hatch may have issues latching when below 32 F (0 C!!!). So this MAY happen anytime it dips below freezing? SO UNFORTUNATE! I currently have underground parking, so icing isn't an issue, but when I parked my car outside for an hour, came back & put stuff in the hatch (my dog), it refused to latch - lame!
 

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happened to my '12 about a week after I bought it...had snow, then a warm up, then super cold all in about 4 days....window would not go up all the way after car was shut off....not knowing if there was a problem...took it back to VW where it sat indoors for a few hours and thawed out.....was fine after that.....I doubt there is a true fix for this other than a garage...maybe let it run and warm up enough to heat the door tracks? good luck!
 

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Hatch and Window problems

I have experienced both the hatch and window problems in NJ this winter with my 2014 R-Line I bought in November. Before our first big snow I got in the car, turned on the ignition and ran the wipers up the window and then shut off the ignition so I could flip the wipers off the windshield. Then I got out of the car. This caused the passenger door to roll down its window the 1". Then the passenger window wouldn't go back up but I didn't notice. Next day after about a foot of snow there were snow drifts on the passenger side in the front and rear footwells. Great. Since the window motor couldn't roll up it got in to that mode where it always stops 1" shy of the top. The manual has instructions about reprogramming it so I did that.

I also have had the problem where I can't open the trunk occur 3 times. When I get this, what happens is that I'll push the trunk button on the remote, or I'll flip the trunk latch and the motor won't make the sound to indicate that it is releasing the latch. It is just silent. When it warms up it starts working again. I don't know what to think of this - I didn't know the manual addressed it. If so that is a really pathetic latch design. I was wondering if lubricating the latch motor with silicone would help but you would think the VW engineers would have thought of that.

I bought the Prestone Windshield De-icer on Amazon and tried that last week when the window didn't roll down upon pulling the door handle. Specifically: The car has touch entry so I touched the inside of the handle and it unlocked then I pulled the handle but the window didn't roll down. I didn't pull hard enough to open the door. Then I got the spray and thoroughly wet the edges of the window all the way around. Then I waited about 5 minutes and pulled the door handle again. No difference - the window didn't roll down. However, what I don't know at this point is maybe since the motor couldn't move the window the first time, it didn't try the second time. A this point I pulled the door open and started the car. With the door open I then rolled the window down and back up and it worked fine after that. I didn't have to reset the upper limit.

We are rapidly moving out of winter here but I am thoroughly disgusted with this car's cold weather performance. Luckily I still love the car anyway.
 

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Thanks for the 3-step tip. Can you tell me how often you have to do this during the winter to keep the windows from freezing shut?
 

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Window getting stuck in freezing weather

I have a 2014 vw bug. I have asked at the maintenance service if Volkswagon has any solutions to this problem of the window getting froze and door not shutting properly. The only fix is
Getting an automatic starter and have your heat on full blast and starting your car a bit before you leave. Although they charge almost 600 dollars to do this at VW. So I am contacting VW to
See if this amount can be reimbursed as it is an expensive car to
Have this problem.
 

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Sorry, COMMON problem on almost all convertibles and coupes that have the window drop feature.

A remote starter and trying to heat the glass may help, but is not a "real solution".

Most convertibles are "Garage Queens" and are not daily drivers. I have 2 daily driver convertibles and live where we have ice and snow.

You either prep the windows like mentioned.

Garage the car.

Scrape the ice along the bottom edge of the glass.

Might be a spray wax that you could spray right along the bottom edge of the glass as well but not sure if it would cause issues with the weather strip??

Drape a trash bag or some other plastic over the window that extends below the window and close the door. Assuming there is not any wind (could could use a few magnets on top of the plastic to keep the wind from blowing in the wind).

Do not expect VW to have a solution for you. As I mentioned this is common on most German cars and likely most an car that has a window drop feature when opening the door.
 

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Same problem with a 2014 convertible Beetle

I have had the same issue twice this week. I have a 2014 Beetle and live in Virginia. I cant get the windows to drop so I can open the door, if they do drop then they wont go back up and are stuck open. Both times there has not been frost, ice or snow to scrape, the windows appear dry so not sure if that prep with deicer would even do anything.
I took it to the dealer the first time and they said that there is a sequence you can do to reset the windows so they will go back up again. Sadly that lasted all of about 3 days before it did it again.
Really wish I had known this before I bought it. I love the car otherwise, this is the first real issue I have encountered.
 

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I have a 2013 Beetle convertible and live in snowy, icy upstate NY. My fix for the frozen window is to carry a small grocery store swipe card. In the morning, I slip the tip of the card into the bottom window channel at one end, slide the card to the other end of the window, and the window always drops when I grab the door handle. If there is snow I brush the snow away before the card trick. My car is kept outside in all weather and the swipe card works every time. When I arrive at wherever I'm going I also make sure I wipe along the top of the window glass with my gloved hand before I close the door to help dry up any moisture that might freeze the top edge. If I hadn't come up with the swipe trick I'd have traded the car in, but honestly it works every time.
 

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2013 TDI- window/door issues in SoCal

My 2013 TDI has been in the shop twice now for the same issue. I'm also having problems with the windows/doors... My problem was that I was not able to close the door once inside, because the window would drop and then go right back up as soon as I let go of the outside handle. Once that happened, I realized my power windows no longer worked and the buttons on my steering wheel also stopped working at the same time.

It's almost always 70-80 degrees here, so climate was not causing the problem. The first time in the shop, they took everything apart and replaced a module and a switch. This fix worked for about a day before the original problem was back. My car is currently back in the shop and I just got a call from the service department saying that they now believe the problem is a bad body control module. From what I've read online, it's an expensive part to replace. Thank goodness for warranties! They are replacing it today and doing an extended test drive (keeping it an extra day) to make sure that this is the right fix this time.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

My mileage is approximately 12,500. I purchased the car new in September 2013.
 
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