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Discussion Starter #1
My wife's 2001 Beetle 2.0 stopped running properly and was throwing a Cam Position Sensor error. On top of it started leaking radiator fluid. It also always had a problem slowly burning oil.

So I decided to pull the head, had it milled, replaced the valve stem seals, replaced the head gasket with new bolts and torqued properly. Replaced the CPS and timing belt tensioner and water pump and timing belt. New gaskets on the exhaust and intake manifold and valve cover. Replaced the rubber gasket on the water albatros thing on the driver side of the block.

Put it all together and it fired right up. Drove it 8 miles and it ran perfect. The next day, the wife starts it up and all is fine. Goes about 200 yards and it dies in the street.

Had it towed to the house and put it back on the lift. My first thought was that the timing belt jumped. I checked it and it looked good.

Its symtoms are that it starts right up and shuts down after 2 seconds. It revs up to about 1100 rpm, seems happy for a second and shuts down.

My thought was that it acted like it was not getting gas. But the odds of a gas problem are about 1000 to 1 since I worked on so much. I replaced the fuel filter and saw the pump throw gas.

I checked the error codes with my Actron scanner and found these codes even though the check engine light was not on.



P0506 - Idle control system RPM low (Bogus code I think)

P0321 - Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input CKT Range/perf

P0135 - O2 sensor Heater Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) (I did disconnect the O2 sensor to pull the head)

I am not sure what to do next. I have double checked everything and can find nothing wrong.

Any thoughts are appreciated. :confused:

Obie
 

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Hmm, you did quite a bit there, well done!

I think it could be a few things to start with.


1. A simple vac line came lose when you put everything back together, you can test this by starting the car and giving it gas, does it still die?

2. Perhaps a throttle body problem, it might be gunked or not properly adapted to handle all the new goodness you put in. Although unlikely it would kill the car.

3. A timing problem, if this is the case you're going to have to open it back up because there will be valve damage, although I find this unlikely because you drove it before it died but if say the tensioner wasn't properly tightened and got lose and it jumped a tooth then you're in trouble.

4. An ECU problem, again, start the car and give it gas, does it rev cleanly or go up and down up and down?

Thats all I can think of for now, keep us posted!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The car does not respond to pushing the gas pedal. I pump it and it does not respond, It goes up to 1100 and settles for a second and then shuts down.

I do have one problem that I need to fix, but I do not think it can be causing this problem. But I have to address it. When I had the car apart, I noticed that the hard plastic vacuum line which runs to the brake booster was cracked/split at the booster connection. I pulled it off and put on a rubber hose. I notice today that the rubber hose I put on was not strong enough to to hold vacuum and is collapsed. It must be under vacuum as I write ,because the hose is as flat as a pancake.

Could this possibly be confusing the ECU? Grabbing at straws
 

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The car does not respond to pushing the gas pedal. I pump it and it does not respond, It goes up to 1100 and settles for a second and then shuts down.

I do have one problem that I need to fix, but I do not think it can be causing this problem. But I have to address it. When I had the car apart, I noticed that the hard plastic vacuum line which runs to the brake booster was cracked/split at the booster connection. I pulled it off and put on a rubber hose. I notice today that the rubber hose I put on was not strong enough to to hold vacuum and is collapsed. It must be under vacuum as I write ,because the hose is as flat as a pancake.

Could this possibly be confusing the ECU? Grabbing at straws
If it were a brake booster leak, it would respond to gas but die when you let it go, if the line is closed completely it absolutely could be choking the engine, unplug it and start it then give it gas, if it responds to gas, thats your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I cut the line going to the brake booster between the booster and what I assume is a check valve.

I am able to make the car run but I can't say for sure that it is the brake booster line.

I discovered that I can get the car to run if I start it with the gas pedal to floor. I can hold it at around 3000 rpm and it runs. It may be the booster line but I never tried to start it floored. I always turned the key with my foot off the gas and then I tried to give it more gas which it did not like.

I am going to try and repair the booster line to night with a 3/8" vacuum hose.

I though it was not getting gas but now you guys have me leaning toward a vacuum leak or too much air.


Thanks for the support.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It was not the brake booster. I double checked the timing and it is right on.

I am at a loss.

I hate to pull it apart because it seems to be running ok. When I turn the key, it starts right up and sounds good for the first two seconds. Then it craps out.

:mad:
 

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Did you by chance disconnect the battery? You need to hook up an external 12 volt power supply to keep the computer memory alive.You may need to find someone close to you with the VAGcom to get you running smooth again.I used an extunal supply (battery booster box) on mine when I did my clutch job about three weeks ago_Other than my MAF sesor being dirty,I had no drivability trouble after everything went back together.Good luck to you!!! :D:D
 

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Not true. I swapped out my battery and had it unplugged working on things before and never had any issues after connecting the it back up and no external power source.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did disconnect the battery and I am reading that I need to disconnect the ECM harness anytime you add new parts. Of course I do not have a manual that is any good (bought a CD version that absolutely sucks). So I don't even know where the ECM is hiding.

I took MAXS advice and unplugged the MAF sensor. Low and behold, the car runs. It is not totally happy about it but it keeps running. About two seconds after I plug the harness back in, the beetle craps out.

I am testing without the serpentine belt on which is different than before. But it seems to act exactly the same.

I looked as the MAF a couple weeks ago and it looked nice and clean to me. But obviously something is wrong.

I think reseting the ECM is important. MAXS, what do you think?

Thanks to all.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I disconnected the MAF and the car runs!!!! It had to think about it for a few seconds and then straightened out. I reset the ECM with the same results.

But if I plug the MAF back in, it dies. It is not happy about plugging in the MAF.

It still is not 100%. A few of times (a time means turn off and back on) it runs perfect at 825 rpm. A couple of times it vacillates between 600 and 800 rpm (up to 800, down to 600, upto 800, down to 600).

I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake manifold just to make sure I was tight. It is tight.

But it would be drive-able.


MAXS - Does this mean it is the MAF or did you have something else in mind?
 

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I disconnected the MAF and the car runs!!!! It had to think about it for a few seconds and then straightened out. I reset the ECM with the same results.

But if I plug the MAF back in, it dies. It is not happy about plugging in the MAF.

It still is not 100%. A few of times (a time means turn off and back on) it runs perfect at 825 rpm. A couple of times it vacillates between 600 and 800 rpm (up to 800, down to 600, upto 800, down to 600).

I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake manifold just to make sure I was tight. It is tight.

But it would be drive-able.


MAXS - Does this mean it is the MAF or did you have something else in mind?
Its the MAF
But it must be a MESSED UP MAF!! I have never ever ever seen a maf that would choke an engine so quickly. Was the car a salvage or something?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
We bought the car at 30,000 miles 8 years ago. It has given us no major problems (except I hate that center console). Now has 102,000.

The only problem I have replacing the MAF is that I have a hard time believing that it went bad the day after I rebuilt the car. What are the odds of that?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Problem Resolved - Thanks so much and a beer for MAXS

I bought a $7 can of CRC MAF Cleaner and cleaned the MAF. Started the car up as usual. Then plugged in the MAF sensor. The computer was adjusting and all of a sudden it was perfect.

Who would have ever thought that you pull the head, have it milled, change the valve stem seals, CAM position sensor, water pump, TB tensioner, new gaskets, torque it all up and you drive it and it runs perfectly. The next day (about 16 hours later), the car craps out on the way to church. Had it towed home.

Who would have ever thought that it was totally unrelated to all my work. You should have seen my face when I read MAXS comment to unplug the MAF (I thought where is this guy coming from)

The fact is, it took more time, worry and energy to figure out that it was a dirty MAF then it took to rebuild the car. I almost pulled the head to see what was inside causing the problem.

But I new it ran well the day before so I let is be.

Thanks to all. Obie
 

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I bought a $7 can of CRC MAF Cleaner and cleaned the MAF. Started the car up as usual. Then plugged in the MAF sensor. The computer was adjusting and all of a sudden it was perfect.

Who would have ever thought that you pull the head, have it milled, change the valve stem seals, CAM position sensor, water pump, TB tensioner, new gaskets, torque it all up and you drive it and it runs perfectly. The next day (about 16 hours later), the car craps out on the way to church. Had it towed home.

Who would have ever thought that it was totally unrelated to all my work. You should have seen my face when I read MAXS comment to unplug the MAF (I thought where is this guy coming from)

The fact is, it took more time, worry and energy to figure out that it was a dirty MAF then it took to rebuild the car. I almost pulled the head to see what was inside causing the problem.

But I new it ran well the day before so I let is be.

Thanks to all. Obie
I was once working on a concorde replacing the radiator, I put the radiator in, filled it with coolant, turned it on and it worked fine, turned it off and that was the last time it worked! I spent about a month trouble shooting it, turned out that at that EXACT time the starter went out. Really pissed me off.
 
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