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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

My wife has a 2004 convertible and it just started having the issues that the driver side window will NOT move..either up or down (stuck up). Here is a list of things I know that are not working and I have checked:

1.Driver window will not move with key in door handle on outside Pass side does (drop 1/2 inch)will not lock/unlock doors.

2. All windows except driver side will go up/down with large master switch on driver side (individual switches for windows do NOT work)

3.electric mirror control does not work as well as door lock on driver door. (pass side works)

4.interior lights/door chime come on when driver door is opened so I have ruled out door switch.

5.key fob will lock/unlock doors and pass side will drop the 1/2 and go back up as usual.

I have read all the stuff about the window regulator etc but am not sure this is the issue since the mirror thing and door locks are not working. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Brian H
 

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Well I am just tossing out some guesses here initially.

I also assume you cannot open the top at this point either?

The first thing I would suggest you do is check fuses and also check the fuse box on top of the battery for any melting or signs of over heating.

Then the next thing is the "Convenience Module" that is somehow part of the driver door motor as I recall may support/control a lot of these features????

The last, but most scary item is possible broken wiring in the door jam. I would leave this to one of the last possibilities
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi,

Thanks for the response, oddly enough I tried the top last night and when I unlatched it all the windows went part way down like normal except the drivers side front and the little electric flaps by the back windows activated and opened. I did not try the button to retract the top but assuming the windows went down and flaps opened it might work. I will try the top when I get home. I asked my wife and she tells me the problems started when the door got slammed hard (kid did it by accident).

Brian
 

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If the windows dropped and the rear wings opened, the top should open. I would not worry about trying to open it at this point.

What door was slammed? Drivers or Passenger?

The door latches are problem, but the drivers door has the Convenience Module is located in the driver door as I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
jfoj,

The drivers side door was the one slammed and now not working. When I unlatched the top three windows dropped except the drivers side front which is the one stuck in up position. I noticed the door light comes on when driver door is opened so I assume door switch is working. Could all the other strange things happening ""no power mirrors, no door locks and no vanity lights under sun visor working and also only large master switch on passenger door opens three remaining windows.....individual window button on drivers side door will NOT open any windows. very strange indeed. Maybe window motor itself (with control module on it?).

Brian
 

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http://newbeetle.org/forums/new-bee...passenger-door-stop-functioning-properly.html

I think at the end of the day you will have to open up the drivers door, which is not the easiest thing to do.

The question is the window motor or the convenience module??

There have also been problems with the wiring in the door jam breaking as well.

You may want to get a VAG401/VAG405 or VCDS and see if you can read any codes to get some ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
jfoj

I took the door apart and see nothing wrong with the window regulator all cables look good. I have to assume the door switch is good at this point too since the red door light came on when the door was opened? Can anyone out there confirm the correct motor for the window as I have seen several different ones posted. I have the motor in my hands and part # on it is 1Y1959801C, I have seen 1Y0959801C posted as correct too.....is there any new updated part # for this? Thanks.

Brian
 

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Not sure about the part numbers, they are often updated, but be careful as the convertible window motors are MUCH different then the coupe window motors.

I would probably go with an ebay motor because a new motor will be VERY expensive.

POWER WINDOW MOTOR 1Y1959801 VW BEETLE CONVERTIBLE 03-04 FRONT LH DRIVER

Might check with these sites for a more update part number:

VW Parts | Volkswagen Parts
Find Genuine Volkswagen Parts Online - VW Parts 2GO - VW Parts with diagrams and part numbers
PartsBase.org - Catalogue of Auto Parts
Genuine Volkswagen Parts & Accessories - Discount Prices | VWPartsCenter.net

Also be careful as many 2003-2004 convertible had upgraded 2005+ motors and regulators installed under warranty. Most of these will drop the window(s) with the keyfob, where the original 2003-2004 did not drop the window with the keyfob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
jfoj,

So I decided to buy a new window motor (upgraded part number) and also a door latch. I want to do this once and be done. I cannot find any video or such to show the latch removal and replacement. I have read a couple things about plactic rods holding part of it in and to tell the truth I do not see any sort of the part where they say about pushing the plastic rivets out I have the inner panel off the door...there is not attachment of this inner door to the door latch.

Brian H
 

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There is a good bet given the age of the car, someone has been inside this door more than once.

There is a plastic mounting arm that connects the door latch to the inner metal door vapor barrier that is somewhat critical to allow the metal inner vapor barrier to be installed with the door latch hanging/mounted on the metal inner vapor barrier.

I assume this can be skipped, but I have always used this black plastic piece with the 2 rivets that to though the inner metal vapor barrier.

I also had a dealer butcher also drill the rivets and not replace the parts and used wire ties instead of the correct parts.

If you look closely at the 2nd picture in the 3rd link above, you will see 2 holes, about 3/8" diameter horizontally spaced about 2 inches apart just under the door release cable at the rear of the door. These are where the 2 plastic rivet are on a convertible, not show on the coupe in the picture. I recall you can use a punch and just tap the center of the rivet in about 3/8" or so and the plastic bracket will release from the inner metal vapor barrier.

You might be best to just unbolt the door latch from the door before trying to remove the inner metal vapor barrier. Note that the screws for the door latch are known as "Triple Square" or XZN screws.

http://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-T...e=UTF8&qid=1446569794&sr=8-1&keywords=xzn+bit
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
jfoj,

There is no plastic mounting arm (I assume missing or broken by previous owner) the inner door panel was NOT attached to the latch. I do see the two plastic rivets where they should be but there is nothing attached to them. When I removed the inner door panel it was not attached to the door latch and came right off easy. What is the significance of having the door latch attached to the inner door panel? There is a ton of room to install the latch by reaching in (with window in up position). What am I missing here? It does not seem that big a deal.

Brian H
 

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Yep, the plastic mounting arm was broken, this is pretty common. There is supposed to be a single pop rivet that secures the plastic bracket to the latch assembly.

It is have a few years since I was last inside the door, but as I recall it made it very easy to have the door latch mounted to the metal inner door vapor barrier, you could connect the wiring and then just install the metal inner door vapor barrier and then the latch would be hanging in the proper location to start the screws.

I think it also cuts down on rattles and supports the latch somewhat.

NOW, you need to be careful with the small cable that attaches to the outer door handle. This is kind of tricky to get set properly. The latch actually has an special spring to preload the arm so you can easily set the cable position in the outer door handle. There is info on this in one of my links. Kind if an ingenious set up.

Additionally, you have to be careful about the bracket that holds the door handle to the door and the lock cylinder. I recall you can screw something up where the bracket or something on the handle can hit the glass.

Sorry, its been about 3 years since I was inside of one of these doors. However, I could do this blind folded at this point without a lot of thought in probably under 1 hour!

Get ready to replace the rear window regulator cables, one of mine just failed about 2 months ago, I will replace the other as a preventative measure. I have the part here on the table now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
jfoj,

Thanks for all the help I installed the new latch and upgraded window motor and all is working as is should, only piece I messed up was the dam red interior door light broke upon removal so I just ordered a new one. I must of got lucky with the latch as the outside door handle opened up the door fine with minimal adjustment. I did not buy a new plastic clip held on with the rivets as there was not one on it when I took it off and it seemed to work for 4 plus years no trouble. The thing only has 39k original miles on it(does not get driven in winter months)...it is a 2004 so I am thinking the door latch must have failed early in it's life before I got it. Thanks again.

brian
 

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Many, many of these New Beetle convertibles were butchered by both the dealer staff and Indy shops. The dealer broke the drivers window in my car when they were working on the door latch or window regulators at some point. As I mentioned my plastic latch support rivets were drilled out and 2 black wireties were used to reassemble the door at one point.

Freaking butchers!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
jfoj,

Well sad news the repair worked for two days and then the window regulator cable let loose!!!! Oh well so I buy a new regulator (genuine VW part whole thing rails and all) and get it all installed and window lined up. One problem now.....window drops when door is opened like it should, window goes up and down smooth etc but when you close the door when you get in it does not go up the 1/2 inch and close completely. Roll the window up tight from inside and open door and it drops like it should close it, it will not go up. Did I miss something in the install of the regulator..adjustment up and down height need to be done? Thanks.

brian h
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
jfoj,

The light does go out when the door is closed, I put in a brand new door latch and window motor. It is only the drivers door that will not go up the 1/2 inch when closed passenger side works as well as everything else as it should. Strange it all worked before the cable let go.

Brian
 

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Similar problem

Hi,
My 2007 VW New Beetle Vert driver side window will not roll down. The buttons (on driver side door) will also not work to roll down each individual window in the car.. the ONLY button that does work is the "all 4 window button."

Convertible top WILL NOT roll down either...

Also last night my passenger side window rolled down 3 times for no reason while I was driving.

My dad checked fuses and all is good. It seems like something is wrong with the door panel? If so what can I do on my own? I am on a limited income.

Thanks <3:p
 
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