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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
00 Tdi, 5MT, 193k miles.
No CEL. I did scan with authentic RossTech VCDS and hex-net cable. Scan posted below.

Drivers door window quit working. I thought it might be the switch but can operate the passenger window with either switch, on the drivers door by changing the plug on the back of the switches.

Using the key in the door lock, the drivers window also does not work, passé window goes up and down as expected. I'm pretty sure that means my door lock module is good. Door lock module (drivers) replaced two years ago.

After this troubleshooting, I replaced the window motor with a used part. Was told that it tested as good prior to buying it. No change. Still does not work. I used a motor with the identical part number 1J2 959 802 C.

When actuating the switch, there is an audible "click"; seemingly from the motor. It does this with either motor (old and new, and passenger).

I believe the only fuse for the windows is by the lower relay box and is a common fuse for both windows. There are many pins on the door motor plug, and I haven't found a pin out for them.

I did the troubleshooting steps for resetting the window according to the RossTech wiki.

I need help. Luckily the window is in the up position. With the motor out, the window could be moved by hand up and down, so I don't the ink it's the regulator.

 

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I'm sure you have seen these:

01331 - Ross-Tech Wiki

00932 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Have you checked; the classic problem with the wiring harness, from the body to the door, in the ribbed, rubber sheath? This is a common failure point; that can kill a number of things in the door. I would be checking; all the wiring harness and plugs for damage.

Good thread; showing take apart and harness:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...le/109049-window-regualtro-door-lock-diy.html

Here is some good background info; about the ccm:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...comfort-control-system-information-topic.html

Measuring Value Blocks (MVBs) in VCDS; might help and may give you some clues, as to what is going on.

Control module: 46-Central Conv.: 08: Measuring Blocks:

How to test window operation using VCDS

Ross-Tech: VCDS Tour: Measuring Blocks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Billy, thanks for your detailed answer. You always take the time to help and your insight is something that I truly appreciate.
Tomorrow I will check the wires at the door jamb. I will also dig into the measuring blocks of the Central Convenience Module. This was a sudden situation. The motor went down and up fine. One morning it failed to go down. I tried it again and it worked, and then immediately stopped working again.ill keep digging!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update: last night I pulled the boot that protects the wiring harness off the door and body so I could inspect the wires. Indeed there is at least one broken wire, heavy gauge red with with stripe, and a couple that don't look so great. I buttoned everything back up until the weekend, at which point I will have more time to proceed with repairs.
 

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no window op

cha2- yeah let us know what you find. My passenger side window doesnt work although the loose connected motor did work in a different Beetle. In my car the motor just clicks. Pretty sure my switches are good. I'm gonna pull that boot (maybe both) on Saturday. Hoping to find some broken wires in there... Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will. I'll try to take pics as well but I'm usually bad at that. I don't think about it until the job is done and then I can't go back!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It was in fact the 12V power wire in the door jamb that was broken. I fed a new wire and used a butt splice. Had to split the boot as I could not feed the wire through without damaging other wires. Not ideal but will work. If I have more problems I will replace the harness. I taped up the boot when I was finished but didn't get a picture.
 

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Hey, that's a "Bingo"! So, everything works now? :confused: This is a terribly common problem; just think, how many times, that wire has been flexed over the years! :) Because of moisture and exposure to the elements; you might want to consider, the new heatshrink and adhesive lined butt connectors, by 3M. They seal everything out and really work well! I got mine at Walmart:

3M™ Scotchlok™ Butt Connector Heatshrink

3M Heat Shrink Splice Connectors: 16-14AWG, Blue, part #: 03881NA

https://www.google.com/search?q=3M+...&ie=UTF-8#q=3M+Heat+Shrink+Splice+Connectors+
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, everything works. I actually tried to find heatshrink butt splices but had no luck locally. I will definitely be ordering some to put in my supplies.
Again, thanks Billy for your guidance and encouragement.
Beetle on!
 

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window wire

cha2- Hey that's great news! Thanks for the pics. i'll pull mine apart this week, bet i've got a broken wire or two also. Dave

ps- what ya gonna do about the cut boot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I didn't cut the ends of the boot. I only slit it between the grommet ends. That way it could still seal against the body and the door. I then wrapped electrical tape around it.
 
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