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Discussion Starter #1
The Drivers side lock/unlock feature does not work. So I can't use my key to unlock or lock my car! Are there any other ways to get the remote to program?

Another problem I have is that my headlights wont turn on. Both of them and the fuse is good. The Brights turn on and everything else does too. I don't know how long this has been a problem since I just bought the car and the owner did not mention this problem.
could I just take out the knob and see if turning it manually without the knob makes them turn on?
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Do your daytime running lights work? I'd say check the bulbs as far as that goes.

When you say the lock feature doesn't work, do you mean that the remote doesn't work? Can you use the key in the actual door? Or does that not work either?

As far as programming the remote, I know there is a way to do it, but you need a second key.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do your daytime running lights work? I'd say check the bulbs as far as that goes.

When you say the lock feature doesn't work, do you mean that the remote doesn't work? Can you use the key in the actual door? Or does that not work either?

As far as programming the remote, I know there is a way to do it, but you need a second key.
I'll check the DRL's but my mom said that the headlights flashed on a couple of times while she was driving.

The remote is not programmed so it does not work at all. and the key in the lock does not work. All I get is this turning and turning in one direction with no success. :confused:

I bought the car for my wife because I heard and read they are great for both safety and gas mileage. Once I got inside of it, I felt like I was in a bubble and could see everything, so I know that minimizes the blind spots for her.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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How about the passgenger side lock? You have a '98 so you should have a lock on that side. Does the unlock button on the inside of the car work?

So you can only turn the key in one direction? Does it just spin? Might need a new lock cylinder.
 

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This is a start!

Here's an excellent link for programming and key, parts, fob purchase.
sidewinderkey.com

Here is current thread addressing the same lock cylinder issue, except your in good shape, he can't open the door, to get to the cylinder!
http://newbeetle.org/forums/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/48259-key-stuck-door-will-not-open.html

If you can find an AUTOMOTIVE locksmith, I must reiterate, AUTOMOTIVE locksmith, this may be your cheapest solution, as to get a new lock cylinder if has to be ordered by a Dealer from Germany. An automotive locksmith may be able to repair yours or rekey a new one. Removal of the cylinder is easy, there is a DIY around somewhere from a few weeks ago. DON"T REMOVE THE SCREW IN THE DOOR STILE THAT YOU LOOSEN TO RELEASE THE CYLINDER.

Get the cylinder issue taken care of and GET A SPARE KEY POST HASTE! You don't want the expense involved when you have none! And when you get, or the cylinder is removed by someone else, get the 4-digit code. A Dealer can get it with the VIN, but will probably charge you for that simple task.

As to your headlights, could be loose plugs at the headlight assembly/harness connection. The question about your DRLs was excellent. They are the same bulbs fed by a different power source. You can not due what you were inquiring about with the switch, it's not that type of switch. If you pull it out, all that is there are contacts. That is not to say that it is not the switch. If you do have to replace headlight bulbs (hopefully someone hasn't "modded" the car with aftermarket HIDs, because then you will have all kinds of other issues), always replace bulbs in pairs. Halogens deteriorate with time, thus decreasing brightness. You car will use H1s unless someone has played games with them.

Keep us posted, there are several of us around here who can walk you through the diagnosis and solutions.

Funny how Sellers forget about the little unimportant things, like not having headlioghts or the ability to lock a car, when they are selling.

You are also going to have some very pressing, important service due issues to deal with, right away. But these are the most pending issues. One thing at a time!

MORAV
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Here's an excellent link for programming and key, parts, fob purchase.
sidewinderkey.com

Here is current thread addressing the same lock cylinder issue, except your in good shape, he can't open the door, to get to the cylinder!
http://newbeetle.org/forums/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/48259-key-stuck-door-will-not-open.html

If you can find an AUTOMOTIVE locksmith, I must reiterate, AUTOMOTIVE locksmith, this may be your cheapest solution, as to get a new lock cylinder if has to be ordered by a Dealer from Germany. An automotive locksmith may be able to repair yours or rekey a new one. Removal of the cylinder is easy, there is a DIY around somewhere from a few weeks ago. DON"T REMOVE THE SCREW IN THE DOOR STILE THAT YOU LOOSEN TO RELEASE THE CYLINDER.

Get the cylinder issue taken care of and GET A SPARE KEY POST HASTE! You don't want the expense involved when you have none! And when you get, or the cylinder is removed by someone else, get the 4-digit code. A Dealer can get it with the VIN, but will probably charge you for that simple task.

As to your headlights, could be loose plugs at the headlight assembly/harness connection. The question about your DRLs was excellent. They are the same bulbs fed by a different power source. You can not due what you were inquiring about with the switch, it's not that type of switch. If you pull it out, all that is there are contacts. That is not to say that it is not the switch. If you do have to replace headlight bulbs (hopefully someone hasn't "modded" the car with aftermarket HIDs, because then you will have all kinds of other issues), always replace bulbs in pairs. Halogens deteriorate with time, thus decreasing brightness. You car will use H1s unless someone has played games with them.

Keep us posted, there are several of us around here who can walk you through the diagnosis and solutions.

Funny how Sellers forget about the little unimportant things, like not having headlioghts or the ability to lock a car, when they are selling.

You are also going to have some very pressing, important service due issues to deal with, right away. But these are the most pending issues. One thing at a time!

MORAV
I'm working on the spare key and I did not find an automotive locksmith. :( would there be a way to activate the red light sensor on the door without the key???

Smiley-
The passenger side does unlock and yes I can spin it in one direction and it just spin.

Edit: I found this link.
http://newbeetle.org/forums/technical-how/15442-how-fix-lube-sticky-door-lock.html
It's the only thing I saw in the DIY's but I don't think that's it.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Are you able to lock the car from the passenger side? Not sure if that would set the alarm, but I'd imagine so.
 

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I did not find an automotive locksmith.
I don't recognize your location, but you may have to go to a larger city like Seattle, or which ever one might be close.

:( would there be a way to activate the red light sensor on the door without the key???
I'm sure it can be done, but you would have to get into the electronics in the door, either the door control module or the series of microswitches and do a by-pass. Much easier to change the cylinder out with a used different cylinder/different key, so you can at least program a fob, and then work on getting the correct cylinder for a final replacement. Probably someone on here doing a part-out that can help you real cheap.

Edit: I found this link.
http://newbeetle.org/forums/technical-how/15442-how-fix-lube-sticky-door-lock.html
It's the only thing I saw in the DIY's but I don't think that's it. I could not find the explaination of the removal I was looking for either, but ... Send a p/m to BUGSTUFF, just search him in the "Members List" (in the bar above), by searching his name to the right. He's a real helpful poster and has done this and can walk you through the cylinder removal.
See red injected notes above! It may not be the cylinder at all, it may be what retains the cylinder, either loose or broken, possibly even the screw in the edge of the door that you loosen for cylinder removal, being loose. JUST DON"T REMOVE THAT SCREW! I'm not familiar with the screw location, but I assume it should be on a level line with the cylinder. You might check it for tightness. It could also be what has broken off, allowing the cylinder to turn freely. BUGSTUFF may have a better idea.

MORAV

POSTSCRIPT: I sent BUGSTUFF a p/m, asking him to take a look at this thread and see if he could be of assistance. He should respond today during real people hours!
 

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Maybe someone can post this as a "Sticky"

Near the door lock mechanism on the inner "rear" of the door is a rubber plug or clear piece of vinyl covering a hole. It will be even with the outside door lock cylinder. Carefully remove the plug/cover. I think you will need a Torx bit to LOOSEN (do not remove!!!) the screw. You can then remove the cylinder.

On the inner end of the cylinder, there is a "thumb" or a "castle." The cylinders are like a cast pot-metal and over time, for whatever reason, that thumb breaks off. I assume ours did because for the last few years, we can only use the key to lock and unlock the driver's door. When this happens, the cylinder will spin freely, and unless it is in the correct position, you will not be able to remove your key. The "thumb" is what "leverages" the locking arm mechanism into the "lock" or "unlock" position. I had to manually lock the driver's door from the inside (by pushing down on the button) and then crawling out the passenger side. To unlock required pulling the inner door handle twice to open the door. It could not be locked or unlocked from the outside.

As far as I know, the dealer is the only one that can order a new cylinder for your car, as it is coded to you VIN. Ours was less than $100 but it took three weeks to come from the manufacturer in Germany, as they were closed for the Christmas holidays.

Installation of the new cylinder is a bit more complicated, because it requires the "thumb" to be lined up with the associated slot in the mechanism when sliding it back into the hole. You then carefully tighten the set screw and replace the plug/cover.
 

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The red LED on the driver's door will only be activated if the alarm is set - the hood, hatch and both doors must be completely closed and locked.

The only way to completely lock the car, without arming the alarm, is to lock the doors with the passenger side interior door lock switch, after the driver's door has been closed. I don't think that just pushing down on the passenger side lock knob will electrically lock both doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't have a torx bit driver but I'm going to buy one this weekend. I was out of town for a couple of days and that's why I did not respond.

Is it possible to switch the cylinder from the passenger side door to the drivers side door?

When I loosen the bolt should I only go like 4 full turns and the take out the cylinder?
 

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Can't answer your side to side question. There are different size Torx bits, similar to an allen wrench, no clue as to which one. It may not take four turns, but I would certainly think no more. With each turn, attempt to withdraw the cylinder, using some jiggling!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just noticed that it has a major leak :(

This was suppose to be a nice car to drive =/ but I guess I am going to have to do some mechanical work too and buy some tools:mad:
 

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What kind of leak? Oil, coolant?

Not sure how many miles are on it, but keep in mind that its a now 13 year old car so its going to need some TLC to keep going. But its worth it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
it's oil.

I would of responded earlier but I have 4 exams this weeks and I have been studying/ sleeping and taking them :p

oooh and the hood is messed up, do you think I should upload pics to get some advice on how to repair it???
 

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99 Beatle Door Lock Problem

I am also having problems with my beetle, Drivers side"...
When i use the key, the cylinder just spins.
The Dome light does not work when i open the drivers door.. Is this associated with the same problem Cylinder/door latch? if so how much to replace?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i was thinking of switching my drivers side to passenger until I had the money to get a new cylinder lol
 

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driver side door look

The red LED on the driver's door will only be activated if the alarm is set - the hood, hatch and both doors must be completely closed and locked.

The only way to completely lock the car, without arming the alarm, is to lock the doors with the passenger side interior door lock switch, after the driver's door has been closed. I don't think that just pushing down on the passenger side lock knob will electrically lock both doors.
I am going to work on my door this weekend. When I bought her, a month ago, the window screeched bad on the drivers side, they did something to it and it stopped screeching. I found out what they did when I took her in to get her windows tinted. they must have greased it up something cuz it took forever for them to get the tint to stick on the driver side. Thinkin that the probs I have had with the drivers side MIGHT be because of oil/grease used to stop the screeching window. the window will dance while I have the door open, i click the unlock and the window will come down a bit (i have a vert) but then go right back up, the auto lock will not lock that door, I have to use the key.

I really hope it is just cleaning up the oil/grease and that will fix it.
 
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