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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please help!

I have a new code,

p0302-Cyl. 2 misfire detected.

I just checked #2 coil pack by switching it to another cyl, and still got the same code.

I installed new NGK plugs about 20k miles back but pulled them to look at them and they all still look great.

I also had 3 other new codes but they are no longer there after erasing codes. They were:

p0171-sys. too lean bank 1 (i have had this code for a while now- just an occasional go dead at a red light)

p0456-Evap Emissions Sys. leak- Very small leak

p0442 Evao Emiss. Sys. leak -small leak

I don't think it is a cat problem, because I do not smell rotten eggs!

Which would be next on the top of the list from the following?

O2 sensors?
Fuel injectors?
Burned exhaust valve?
poor compression?
defective computer?

I am hoping you say the O2 sensors, because I am guessing that's all i would be able to deal with here at the house w/o a diagnostic machine.

The 2010 VW Beetle 2.5 auto.BPR now has 109297 miles on it.

With all of that said, and trying one last time to stay away from the $$$$$-sucking shop, does anyone out there know what a
"want-to-be mechanic but ain't one"--- might be able to check next?

Thanks! Any reply will be appreciated!
 

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Here are the definitions; of your trouble codes: (read each one; for ideas, on what problems, to check for)

16686/P0302/000770 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16555/P0171/000369 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16840/P0456/001110 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16826/P0442/001090 - Ross-Tech Wiki

If you are serious; about fixing your own car, I would recommend getting a VW scan tool: check out the VAG 401, Foxwell NT500 from amazon or the Ross Tech VCDS. A non VW specific scan tool; is the ELM 327 on amazon which is a wireless obd II adapter (wifi ios/apple, bluetooth for android) and a app like OBD II fusion, that runs on ios/apple or Android devices.

It seems; you have some misfires, a history of a lean condition and evap leaks. At 109k, it would seem; you need to do some work on your car and at that mileage, it is not unexpected.

For the misfire at cylinder #2; that seems pretty specific with only one cylinder showing this problem. You have swapped locations; for the coil pack, so that would rule out that specific coil pack. When you checked the plugs; you could swap the plug location as well. At this pont; I would also look at the coil pack harness and plug; many times, the wire insulation cracks, the plug locking tab breaks, plastic plug housing get brittle, cracks and these can all cause misfires. If you find; that the plug will not lock onto the coil pack; you can use a zip tie, to keep it in place until you replace the plug housing. The VW part # for the plug is: 4B0973724; you can order these online or from your local vw dealer. If you find the wiring harness insulation is cracked; you can also get a coil harness repair kit, that splices into the wiring loom and replaces the plug and bad wires.

Volkswagen Ignition Coil Connector Repair Kit
https://www.google.com/search?q=Ign...Volkswagen+Ignition+Coil+Connector+Repair+Kit

The only other issue; I can think of would be compression, ecu issue or a dirty/bad injector (you can use the swap technique for that or start with a "noid" light for Bosch injectors, to check for a pulse: a light flashes as the pulse come on). Any vacuum leaks; would be a good thing to address, before tearing things apart and those leaks, can cause misfires. Noid light kits, are available for sale or rent; from most auto parts stores, like Autozone.

vw bosch noid light
https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...rome..69i57.5366j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

How would you say; the car runs with this misfire code?


One issue; that is common for the 2.5L engine, is vacuum leaks; one classic culprit is the pcv diaphragm will get a tear in it and cause all kinds of codes, dying and drivability problems.

Read more about it here:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-5-liter-gas/65633-re-2-5l-pcv-valve-failure-solutions-dorman.html

The kit is cheap and is a easy install; check online, for best prices.

I would also, look and check for split, broken or disconnected vacuum hoses. Any hissing noises; while the engine is running, can be a way to try to find leaks. Smoke testing, is the "pro" way to find leaks and there are diy home methods to do this as well (check youtube for videos). Another common source of leaks; is the vacuum hose, that comes from the brake booster and this hose is plastic, which gets brittle and cracks from heat.

Now, that doesn't specifically; address the evap leak problems, which can be hard to diagnose. In the code definitions; it DOES mention, a bad seal at the fuel cap being a possibility. Since, this is a cheap part to replace; you might want to start there and see if that helps fix the evap leak code. That would be the easiest and least expensive route to go and driving around for a couple of days, to see if the evap code comes backing.

If they DO come back: finding evap leaks; can start with a visual inspection for any obvious physical damage and then, a more in depth process of elimination. Here are some videos; discussing evap checking techniques: https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...rome..69i57.5718j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

One classic issue; is the evap canister purge valve, this can throw a trouble code and also, when you fill up the fuel tank, cause starting problems. Have you noticed; any issues, when the fuel tank is filled up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You said"I would also look at the coil pack harness and plug;"

That jumped out at me because:
I just went back and checked the plugs real good for cracks and moved #2 to # 1, erased the codes and cranked it and rechecked the codes. So i have really been moving that harness around alot, but it does appear to be in good shape as all the plugs even still click. Unless you think i mia have stressed a wire or two removing the plugs so many times?
With that said:
NOW I HAVE--- the 0300 random cyl mf, 0302, & 0304.
All the other codes are not showing up again yet, but all i have done is crank it and rev it up to about 3k rpms.

As for the running? So bad I can not even drive it! Terrible. It will eventually go dead if no gas is pressed, but seems to level out when i reved it, but the daughter said when it started she could not drive over 30mph because it jumped so bad.
I don't even think i could drive it the 30 miles to the VW shop.

That was a lot of great info you gave me. I am going to have to figure out if i am up to buying a machine you mentioned and the Bentley repair manual, or just use that money to pay a shop bill?
I guess being an amatuer i am just afraid i will end up having to pay for both.

I have already replaced the pcv. But i bought just the pcv repair kit and not the entire valve cover and gasket.

The NGK plugs only have about 20k on them as i replaced them but not the coils.(i set them @ 0.040. Is that correct setting?)
And torqued them to 15 ft. lbs.
There was no oil down in there around the plugs it looked dry.

Would you think it could also be in need of a good carbon cleaning?
Which has probably never even been done? I don't really know how to do it either?
Would i just pull the valve cover and see what needs cleaning in there?

I already cleaned everything else like the MAF,throttle body and air filter already.

Also replaced the fuel filter which was located in the tank thru a portal under the back seat. Done that about 5k ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are the definitions; of your trouble codes: (read each one; for ideas, on what to check for problems)

16686/P0302/000770 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16555/P0171/000369 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16840/P0456/001110 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16826/P0442/001090 - Ross-Tech Wiki

If you are serious; about fixing your own car, I would recommend getting a VW scan tool: check out the VAG 401, Foxwell NT500 from amazon or the Ross Tech VCDS. A non VW specific scan tool; is the ELM 327 on amazon which is a wireless obd II adapter (wifi ios/apple, bluetooth for android) and a app like OBD II fusion, that runs on ios/apple or Android devices.

It seems; you have some misfires, a history of a lean condition and evap leaks. At 109k, it would seem; you need to do some work on your car and at that mileage, it is not unexpected.

For the misfire at cylinder #2; that seems pretty specific with only one cylinder showing this problem. You have swapped locations; for the coil pack, so that would rule out that specific coil pack. When you checked the plugs; you could swap the plug location as well. At this pont; I would also look at the coil pack harness and plug; many times, the wire insulation cracks, the plug locking tab breaks, plastic plug housing get brittle, cracks and these can all cause misfires. If you find; that the plug will not lock onto the coil pack; you can use a zip tie, to keep it in place until you replace the plug housing. The VW part # for the plug is: 4B0973724; you can order these online or from your local vw dealer. If you find the wiring harness insulation is cracked; you can also get a coil harness repair kit, that splices into the wiring loom and replaces the plug and bad wires.

Volkswagen Ignition Coil Connector Repair Kit
https://www.google.com/search?q=Ign...Volkswagen+Ignition+Coil+Connector+Repair+Kit

The only other issue; I can think of would be compression, ecu issue or a dirty/bad injector (you can use the swap technique for that or start with a "noid" light for Bosch injectors, to check for a pulse: a light flashes as the pulse come on). Any vacuum leaks; would be a good thing to address, before tearing things apart and those leaks, can cause misfires. Noid light kits, are available for sale or rent; from most auto parts stores, like Autozone.

vw bosch noid light
https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...rome..69i57.5366j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

How would you say; the car runs with this misfire code?


One issue; that is common for the 2.5L engine, is vacuum leaks; one classic culprit is the pcv diaphragm will get a tear in it and cause all kinds of codes, dying and drivability problems.

Read more about it here:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-5-liter-gas/65633-re-2-5l-pcv-valve-failure-solutions-dorman.html

The kit is cheap and is a easy install; check online, for best prices.

I would also, look and check for split, broken or disconnected vacuum hoses. Any hissing noises; while the engine is running, can be a way to try to find leaks. Smoke testing, is the "pro" way to find leaks and there are diy home methods to do this as well (check youtube for videos). Another common source of leaks; is the vacuum hose, that comes from the brake booster and this hose is plastic, which gets brittle and cracks from heat.

Now, that doesn't specifically; address the evap leak problems, which can be hard to diagnose. In the code definitions; it DOES mention, a bad seal at the fuel cap being a possibility. Since, this is a cheap part to replace; you might want to start there and see if that helps fix the evap leak code. That would be the easiest and least expensive route to go and driving around for a couple of days, to see if the evap code comes backing.

If they DO come back: finding evap leaks; can start with a visual inspection for any obvious physical damage and then, a more in depth process of elimination. Here are some videos; discussing evap checking techniques: https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...rome..69i57.5718j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

One classic issue; is the evap canister purge valve, this can throw a trouble code and also, when you fill up the fuel tank, cause starting problems. Have you noticed; any issues, when the fuel tank is filled up?
Billy,
I was just thinking, since the car went down hill abruptly like it did, could it still be that I should go ahead and replace all of the coil packs?
and maybe even the plugs(even though they only have 30k on them at the very most?)

Even though I have been carrying the p0170 code for almost a year now, the car has always run really good then all of a sudden it will barely run!

So what would you think about replacing them and hope that gets it back on the road, then immediately start servicing all the other things?

If so, i am seeing 3 different packs out there that I am looking at and was wondering which one you recommend?

The OEM ones are supposedly the latest version coils. Not sure about the bosch?

OEM (Audi R8) VW 2.5cyl - 06E-905-115-E
OR
OEM VW 2.5 CYL - 07K-905-715-F
OR
Bosch 2.5-Liter Audi Volkswagen

Please let me know today if possible. The bad thing this time is I have got to get it back on the road for the daughter fast.

Thanks again for trying to educate me here!
 

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Well, I cannot guarantee; that replacing the coil packs and spark plugs; would solve your problem but as you know, coil packs are known to fail. It is also possible; to damage the coil packs, when removing them if you pry them out with a screwdriver or treat them rough, bending the tops causing internal damage.

There was a coil pack recall; on some of the 2.5L engines but I don't know, if your car would be covered under that recall (you could call your local vw dealer service dept; ask about any open recalls with your vin #). Some dealerships; did a "silent recall"; under a misfire condition and with a customer courtesy type of scenario; again, I don't know if this applies to your car, you could ask and see what they could do for you.

16684/P0300/000768 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16686/P0302/000770 - Ross-Tech Wiki

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16688/P0304/000772

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0170

Now, if you want to replace the parts; using the “Shotgun” Approach to Troubleshooting, here is what parts I would get:

1. coil packs, the latest version from your VW dealer; finding the correct ones by your vin #. You can use the VW part website and your VIN # to find the parts or call your local VW dealer with your vin # and see if they have them in stock.

http://parts.vw.com

I WOULD NOT, buy coil packs from your local auto parts store; as typical aftermarket coils, do NOT last and just wastes money, time and prematurely fail, causing drivability problems, thus you would be back to square one.

2. spark plugs; you could save some money here by looking up the correct plugs, on Bosch's website and buying the recommended "oe" spark plugs.

3. for good measure; you might pick up a new gas cap and see if that fixes your evap leak issues. It's cheap and worth a shot.

Look them up here: www.boschautoparts.com (pep boys and advance auto parts: have 20%/30% off online coupon codes listed on top of their websites; that you can use online and then, choose "pick up at the store"; instead of "ship to home" option @ checkout). I just bought my NGK plugs @ Pep Boys and they had them in stock. From the photos of the genuine VW spark plugs; it looks like your particular engine's "oe" plug, is made by Bosch.

The shotgun approach: is to "replace all major components that usually are the source of machine problems. This is the most expensive way to repair a machine, and it doesn’t always work. The “shotgun” approach to troubleshooting is not entirely a bad thing. You just have to recognize that there are pros and cons. Sometimes, pulling all of the major components is ideal for getting a system back up and running, provided you’ve taken some basic troubleshooting steps first and decided to accept the risk of this method. "


I cannot guarantee, that this will fix your problem but if you have decided to go this route; that is what I would do, to get the best quality parts and replace them.

For gap and torque; here is what is listed for a 2007 2.5L model; you might confirm, this elsewhere but this is what I am seeing here: Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle Convertible L5-2.5L (BPR) (2007) > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications

Here is a website; showing parts listed for a 2010 but I would confirm, the correct part #'s based on your vin: (click on the coil pack and spark plugs; for installation videos by deutsche auto parts on youtube).

https://deutscheautoparts.com/make-.../beetle-convertible/2006-2010/engine.html?p=2

After you replace the parts; let us know, how things are running. If you still have problems; I would be looking for vacuum leaks or issues with fuel delivery, checking fuel pressure, could be a direction to go for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
P0302

Billy,
OK----I got some new VW coils and installed.
Still runs bad but the only code throwing at the moment is cyl.#2 misfire.
I am going to change the plugs out from the NGK back to the original VW plugs when i get them in, but i have already moved the plugs around and checked for cracks.
I have ordered a few tools that are on the way as i am going to try to learn my way around this car and do my own work.
I should get the Bentley's repair manual tomorrow. ----incase anyone needs one--this is the cheapest I could find @ $79.00 @ https://www.bookbyte.com/textbooks/...beetle-repair-manual/9780837616407-0837616409
This is about $20 cheaper than ebay!

I also have a noid light kit coming with a spark/coil tester included in a storage case @ TYLERTOOLS.COM!(part #-36350) FOR THE CHEAPEST I COULD FIND PRICE OF $42.00 and you get FREE shipping on your first purchase!

Got a new OEM gas cap coming
.
And a cheap FOG MACHINE i plan to use as a smoke tester!I watched a dude use one of these on a yt video. Got it at a music store i buy all my guitar equipment from called MUSICIANSFRIEND.com! They had an open box special w/a pint of juice for only $27!
-----Hurricane 700 Fog Machine
-----Item #620353002000000

I think I am about to get the VAG-401 machine you mentioned.

NOTE: I also seen a VAG-450.https://www.amazon.com/Scanner-Diag...e=UTF8&qid=1469872030&sr=1-2&keywords=vag-450
Is that one better than the 401 or not?

While I am at it I wanted to see if you think i should get a compression tester?
>>>>>>Or what about a CYLINDER LEAK DETECTOR ?
And what's the difference?

Would this one be ok?---------http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Compression-Gauge-Test-Set-Perfect-for-Engine-Cylinders-Diagnostic-Tester/272099474030?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37577%26meid%3D9404b0a243fb471b99b7c709a0442727%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D171699167838
OR
New Cylinder Leakage Leakdown Leak Detector Engine Compression Tester Gauges | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Billy,
Forgot to mention I am going to replace all the o2 / Air Fuel Ratio Sensors too.

I think the hardest part has been shopping for the darn thangs!XD

can you confirm these are the correct 3 o2/Air-fuel Ratio sensors BOSCH part numbers? And make sure i have identified their location correctly?
FRONT(BEFORE CAT)
CENTER(AFTER 1ST CAT)
REAR(AFTER 2ND CAT)

17182- FRONT-Before CAT--- VW#(06a-906-262-CN)
(cheapest price so far is---$95.09 on EBAY)

16702-Downstream/CENTER/After Primary(1st) CAT/ called the Center one(i think?) -
(VW#-06A-906-262-CM)
(cheapest price = $61.46)

16738-DownStream/After 2nd CAT/ VW#-06A-906-262-CN
(cheapest price = $95.93)

Please also let me know if I should save money and get the BOSCH brand UNIVERSAL? (The ones you have to crimp the wires on?)
OR IF YOU KNOW OF A CHEAPER PRICE SOMEWHERE ON THE BOSCH BRAND?

I will be around all day today, so if you have time i will be checking my messages!

Thanks again Billy!
 

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For compression testing; a leak down tester is better, in that you can figure out (where) the potential leak(s) are coming from but you NEED a source of compressed air to use it (air compressor). There are lots of videos online; showing the use of a leak down tester:

https://www.google.com/search?q=dif...ome..69i57.12006j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

https://www.google.com/search?q=dif...id=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=using+a+leak+down+tester

As for the 02 sensors; I would confirm with your VIN # and/or you engine code by looking up here:

www.boschautoparts.com

This is the results; that I got:

Premium Oxygen (O2) SensorsBosch invented the automotive oxygen sensor, which is also referred to as an O2 sensor or lambda sensor. Our Premium Oxygen Sensors are thimble and planar switching sensors that are designed to meet or exceed OE specifications.
Engine Designation: BPR, Body Type: Convertible,Hatchback, Position: Downstream,Downstream Front

Installation Restrictions: Actual OE part, Located After Primary Converter

Part Number:
16702
View Product
Premium Oxygen (O2) SensorsBosch invented the automotive oxygen sensor, which is also referred to as an O2 sensor or lambda sensor. Our Premium Oxygen Sensors are thimble and planar switching sensors that are designed to meet or exceed OE specifications.
Engine Designation: BPS,BPR, Body Type: Convertible,Hatchback, Position: Downstream,Downstream Rear

Installation Restrictions: Actual OE part, Replacement item, Located After Secondary Converter

Part Number:
16738
View Product
Premium Wideband A/F Oxygen (O2) SensorsWideband/Air-Fuel sensors perform the same function as a regular O2 sensor, but they precisely measure the amount oxygen in the exhaust rather than just switching between rich (too much fuel, not enough oxygen) and lean (too much oxygen, not enough fuel). Our Wideband sensors use a more sophisticated sensing element that provides a signal to the vehicle’s ECU that is proportional to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust.
Position: Upstream

Installation Restrictions: Actual OE part

Part Number:
17182
View Product
Universal Oxygen (O2) SensorsPremium Universal Oxygen Sensors with OE SmartLink are quick and easy to install. Each sensor has two-feet length of sensor wire to allow maximum replacement of worn harnesses.
Engine Designation: BPS,BPR, Body Type: Convertible,Hatchback, Position: Downstream,Downstream Front,Downstream Rear

Installation Restrictions: Located After Primary Converter, Located After Secondary Converter


Part Number:
15733
View Product
Premium Oxygen (O2) SensorsBosch invented the automotive oxygen sensor, which is also referred to as an O2 sensor or lambda sensor. Our Premium Oxygen Sensors are thimble and planar switching sensors that are designed to meet or exceed OE specifications.
Engine Designation: BPS,BPR, Body Type: Convertible,Hatchback, Position: Downstream,Downstream Rear

Installation Restrictions: Actual OE part, Available while stocks last, Located After Secondary Converter

Part Number:
16704

I would not get the "universal" style o2 sensor, get the "oe" and they will be the same as your originals. Some of the 2.5L's seem to have TWO catalytic converters and THREE 02 sensors, so I don't know what your situation is, you might need to visually inspect your car or remove your old sensors and inspect the old part numbers, to figure out the correct parts you need. Note: the bold sections above; which indicate their positions, in relation the cats.

pep boys and advance auto parts; have discounts for 20%-35% off online coupons; that brings the price down cheaper, than anyone I have seen online. You can order it online and then, pick the parts up at your local store.

It sound like you are "arming for bear"; in diagnostic tools and service manuals. While, it is a investment; I'm sure it will be cheaper, in the long run, than having a pro shop do the work for you. I'll be interested, in hearing about your experience and reviews of the tools you buy; especially, the "smoke machine", which is pretty cheap, compared to what they sell for cars! :)
 

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Originally you mentioned the presence of Evap. related fault codes that you subsequently erased, you also stated that the car is not really driveable due to how poorly it runs.

1. Never judge the condition of a spark plug solely by it's appearance, a spark plug can look beautiful yet be bad.

2. I would not forget about those evap. codes as they could be the core of the issues that you are having, leaks somewhere in the system.

3. Another misfire code appeared, this could be related to the original evap. codes, and/or this could be caused by additional vacuum leaks elsewhere.

Consider your MAF sensor as a possible cause as well, but I would suggest that you start by first diagnosing what is causing the codes you have received already.
 

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Re Misfire

Real good info for this guy Billy...Really good on the mark full blown info!...curious what the results are...any conclussion?...thnx
 

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Yeah, I mentioned that in the beginning; he said: "I have already replaced the pcv. But i bought just the pcv repair kit and not the entire valve cover and gasket." So, unless it failed (again); I don't know.

Hopefully, he will see these questions and update the thread! :)
 

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Saw this video on youtube; a different evap code but shows, how to do "output" tests on the evap system and how to replace the evap purge valve, on the 2.5L engine:

(Note: this is on a rabbit but is similar):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiwLSz-O1b8
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Saw this video on youtube; a different evap code but shows, how to do "output" tests on the evap system and how to replace the evap purge valve, on the 2.5L engine:

(Note: this is on a rabbit but is similar):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiwLSz-O1b8
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks I am about to watch that video!

The battery is dead now due to it sitting the past 10 days or so, so i need to charge it.

*********Is there anything I should know about the proper way to charge this battery? I have always just jumped the old ford truck off, but just want to make sure about these VW electronics that Idk much about?------should i remove the cables if i put a charger on it or just leave it like it is and charge it? I doubt that is the proper way, but please don't tell me to remove the battery from the car, because that ain't gonna happen, after it took me around 1 hr to install it! lol!-----------

I got the Bentley manual in ,one of the 3 o2's, one fuel injector, ignition coils and VW OEM plugs. (replacing the NGK's)

Been having a bad back problem so as soon as my son can help i will let you know what codes it reads as we replace things.

Oh i also got a new VW oem fuel cap and put it on, hoping that may have been an evap problem itself, as the cap did have quite a bit loose play in it.

Anyway, will let you know as i go.
Thanks again for all the info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Saw this video on youtube; a different evap code but shows, how to do "output" tests on the evap system and how to replace the evap purge valve, on the 2.5L engine:

(Note: this is on a rabbit but is similar):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiwLSz-O1b8
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Billy, after watching the video, and since i had the code p0442 -small leak, and the n80 purge valve is only $12 from ECSTUNING.COM---
Mfg Part --#06E906517A
ECS Part-- #ES#2574950
Brand--Bosch

SO WHAT DO YOU SAY ABOUT GOING AHEAD AND REPLACING IT BEFORE TRYING TO FIGURE THAT ONE OUT?
 

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Well, as far as the battery is concerned; charging it with a proper automotive battery charger, is better than jump starting it and having the car's alternator do the work. Aside, from that; I don't know of anything "special" to do.

As for replacing the purge valve; it is a known issue and the part isn't that expensive, so you could go ahead and replace it. See, if the codes; come back. Get a genuine Bosch part; stay away, from aftermarket junk.

When it comes to gas caps and purge valves; they are BOTH not expensive to purchase, common culprits for evap fault codes and cheap. If the codes, don't come back; then, you haven't spent much money to fix it. I generally don't recommend throwing parts at a problem or using the shotgun approach to troubleshooting but in this case, not much money is involved.

If they do; then, you are going to have to spend the time to diagnose the problem or pay someone else to troubleshoot, diagnose and fix it. Under $50; to replace those two parts, probably wouldn't even pay for 1/2 hour of labor to diagnose the issue! So, I think; it isn't a bad place to start. :)

PS: if you replaced the Dorman PCV kit; I think, they have a lifetime warranty so you might contact Dorman about this if it failed on you. They have "live" tech support; through chatting online or calling them. Their tech support is good; I have chatted with them and they answered, all my questions! :)

http://www.dormanproducts.com/Pages/Home_pg/Warranty.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Gotcha!

Yeah, on the battery I was just making sure that my charger would not do any damage to anything if i charged it while it was still connected to the electrical system. You know, I have heard all kind of things, like remove the neg cable first, or never charge a battery w/o removing from the car first, blah,blah,blah..........
But i have always done it like you just said, and never had a problem with my 97 Ford Lariat.
Thanks
and I am going to go ahead with the purge sensor for the $12.
I will be in touch.------ You don't have to worry about that! lol:)
 
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