NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up my Ross-Tech VCDS software and cable today. I
So far I'm very impressed and very glad I made the purchase!

Now for some new codes, the likes of which I haven't yet seen on newbeetle.org:

Address 01: Engine
4 Faults Found:

17965 - Charge Pressure Control
P1557 - 35-00 - Positive Deviation
16487 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0103 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent

Address 02: Auto Trans
1 Fault Found:

01316 - ABS Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

Address 03: ABS Brakes
1 Fault Found:

01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)
16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications

Solving these issues should keep me out of trouble for a good amount of time, but I'm definitely gonna have some fun. This is therapy...getting one's hands greasy.

I welcome any and all advice from the good folks on this forum.

Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
DTCs & More

Just picked up my Ross-Tech VCDS software and cable today. I
So far I'm very impressed and very glad I made the purchase!

Now for some new codes, the likes of which I haven't yet seen on newbeetle.org:

Address 01: Engine
4 Faults Found:

17965 - Charge Pressure Control
P1557 - 35-00 - Positive Deviation
16487 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0103 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent

Address 02: Auto Trans
1 Fault Found:

01316 - ABS Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

Address 03: ABS Brakes
1 Fault Found:

01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)
16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications

Solving these issues should keep me out of trouble for a good amount of time, but I'm definitely gonna have some fun. This is therapy...getting one's hands greasy.

I welcome any and all advice from the good folks on this forum.

Cheers!
Okay so I realize that when I disconnected the battery terminal while I worked on the car last, it must have generated the code 18010
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #6

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
665 Posts
Hey bme,

no I haven't had a jump or a dead battery since my daughter bought the car last August.
It looks like I was writing my post while you were updating yours. The battery could have caused some of those faults.

If you have time, maybe you can clear the faults, reset everything and see what comes back before you go chasing a ghost. That is what I would personally do.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
DTCs & More

It looks like I was writing my post while you were updating yours. The battery could have caused some of those faults.

If you have time, maybe you can clear the faults, reset everything and see what comes back before you go chasing a ghost. That is what I would personally do.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Thanks bme, I cleared the codes Wednesday night. I'll do another scan Saturday and see what's there. I did notice a bit of corroding on the positive battery terminal when I was working on the car previously. I'm thinking that there will be more on the ground connection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
DTCs & More

Spent Saturday disassembling the battery and removing the battery tray. Also spent a few hours under the car making sure those low lying components were okay (it's a long story).

Friday we got hit by that eastern snow storm system and it dumped a foot of snow on us. So my wife drives the NB to work and back, but returns home less the driver's side engine splash shield and the bottom shield dangling by one screw. It was at just the right angle to scoop up all the snow and spread it around the various nooks in around the transmission and oil pans. I still can't believe that it didn't get torn right off along with the other panel. I could cry sometimes.

Anyway, after removing the battery tray, I noted that all wiring was good. No signs of corroding at the main chassis ground connection at all, pretty clean actually for 14 years old.

Gotta pull the codes again today though and see what has popped up. Drove down to local VW dealer to order replacement engine splash shields and still noted the limp mode during hard accelerating (EPC light on and loss of power). That's the 17965 code I'm sure confirming the positive deviation. From what I've read, the turbo is over pressuring so controls are kicking in to prevent engine damage. I just gotta figure out which valve and/or hose is the cause.

Having said that, I can't figure out which vantage point is best for working on the turbo, above it or under it? I can't get my head in far enough to see the turbo from above. I know it's there.

Updates to follow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
We got about the same amount of snow across the lake here in Rochester. I had my wife leave the NB home on Friday and took our Vibe instead. It has better ground clearance and being automatic was better suited for the 2 1/2 hour, 15 mile drive home!

If the turbocharger is overpressurizing, then either the wastegate itself is stuck, the pressure servo is bad or the control solenoid is not working. I'm not sure if you could use compressed air in the wastegate servo pressure line and then look for movement. Maybe someone with a turbo engine could answer that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
DTCs & More

We got about the same amount of snow across the lake here in Rochester. I had my wife leave the NB home on Friday and took our Vibe instead. It has better ground clearance and being automatic was better suited for the 2 1/2 hour, 15 mile drive home!

If the turbocharger is overpressurizing, then either the wastegate itself is stuck, the pressure servo is bad or the control solenoid is not working. I'm not sure if you could use compressed air in the wastegate servo pressure line and then look for movement. Maybe someone with a turbo engine could answer that.
Thanks red99, I was testing the turbo diverter valve last night with my vacuum pump and it opened and closed smoothly. Checked the resistance on the waste gate control valve...it was 29 Ohms. I read in another thread that the correct range is30 - 100 Ohms, so I'm gonna replace it regardless. I noticed that it was pretty old and rusting, probably original.

What else, gonna get me one of those remote mirrors and hopefully use it for a visual inspection of the turbo and wastegate servo. I managed to get my hand in behind the engine and could feel the servo housing with my hand (still couldn't see it from above). It felt old and rusty, although the steel rod felt smooth.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the servo is still good and it's the wastegate control valve that's toast. Otherwise, it's off to my local VW independent shop for a chat and some soul serching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
DTCs & More

Thought I would post a pic of the turbo on my daughter's car. This is looking up from underneath the engine. That's one old looking waste gate actuator, not to mention the rest of the components.

I thought it was tight in the upper engine compartment! If I have to replace the turbo, I think I'm going to have to disconnect an engine mount so that I can tilt it to gain access. Or worse, pull the engine. But maybe pulling the engine wouldn't be so bad?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
DTCs & More

Well I had to break down and take the Beetle into my local VW specialist. I tried everything to find a vacuum leak in the hoses, installed clamps on all vacuum hose ends and still get the positive deviation (P1557) code along with the mass air flow sensor - signal too high (P0103). I'll post the final result when I know something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
DTCs & More

Well it's official, and not what I wanted to hear, my turbo is toast. Wastegate servo is seized. Now the decision to fix or to sell.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
DTCs & More

How much will it cost you? Seems like it will be a tough sell with a bad turbo. Maybe you can go with used turbo.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
I can pick up a new turbo locally for $850. My mechanic said he needs a day to do the replacement. It's a big job. A day's labor is likely $600 - $700. So all in, likely around $1,500.

Also, my mechanic advised to avoid used turbos. I'm not sure if they re-manufactured turbos though. Gonna look into that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,068 Posts
We have had good luck with these guys; definitely can save money over new...

Turbo City - Rock-It Parts

Reman unit or you can send yours in for evaluation and rebuild; ours needed a new center section as it was damaged, you will need to send it in to them to know for sure... then they will call you with info, pricing on what can be done on yours.

Purchase rebuilt unit:

http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?cPath=15_18&products_id=844

Rebuilding service:

http://www.turbocity.com/default.php?cPath=47
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
DTCs & More

We have had good luck with these guys; definitely can save money over new...

Turbo City - Rock-It Parts

Reman unit or you can send yours in for evaluation and rebuild; ours needed a new center section as it was damaged, you will need to send it in to them to know for sure... then they will call you with info, pricing on what can be done on yours.

Purchase rebuilt unit:

Turbo City - Rock-It Parts

Rebuilding service:

Turbo City - Rock-It Parts
Thanks billymade, I'll definitely go with a reman unit. That doesn't bother me at all. There's no difference in the warranty either. I can pick up a KKK (which is Borg-Warner) reman turbo locally, Toronto, for $720 with all gaskets and parts, plus installation. Taxes included it's a $1,500 job. Welcome to Canada eh! I'd love to give it go myself but I really think you need a hoist to be to stand while working.

I'll have them do the oil pick up, change the dip stick and maybe even the auxiliary water pump, if it wasn't changed with the timing belt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
DTCs & More

We have had good luck with these guys; definitely can save money over new...

Turbo City - Rock-It Parts

Reman unit or you can send yours in for evaluation and rebuild; ours needed a new center section as it was damaged, you will need to send it in to them to know for sure... then they will call you with info, pricing on what can be done on yours.

Purchase rebuilt unit:

Turbo City - Rock-It Parts

Rebuilding service:

Turbo City - Rock-It Parts
Wow it kills me that the same turbocharger in Canada costs $300 more than the US. Thank you free trade!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Turbocharger Diagnosis - Update

Well it's been a few months now since I last reported that I needed to replace the turbocharger on the '99 Beetle. I was ready to do the job when I decided that I'd get a scond opinion from another trusted mechanic.

Well the outcome of the second diagnosis was that it was just the blow-down hose needing replacing. So a $75 hose was a much welcomed solution than a new turbocharger. Not sure how after all the hours I spent under the hood of the car I wasn't able to spot the defective hose, but whatever.

I can't believe the difference the repair has made as well. The car drives so much better, is so much more responsive and has none of the cold start hesitation issues that previously existed.

I'm so thankful that I just wanted to share the good news with everyone.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top