NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
I'm not a dude.
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am pulling my hair out STILL trying to figure out why my car is having trouble starting. It only happens when it is warm outside. If I didn't find the problem, it will start just fine around November when it cools off and start having problems around March. Been going on for 3 years now. Several batteries, 2 alternators, and a melted fusebox later, it is still happening. My check engine light appears to be either burnt out or missing as it is not on, has never been on, and doesn't light up when I start the car. Now that I think of it, I don't think I've ever seen the airbag light either. But anyway.. Here's what I've come to:

1.) It is a combination of things, one being the stereo. I believe it is causing a drain. I have an alpine head unit and kicker speakers, and after 3 years of ownership, just found out my car has the monsoon system a few weeks ago. :banghead: It is my understanding the monsoon amp does not have a turn on wire (which is why I assumed it didn't have an amp when wiring up the head unit) but instead it reads a signal off one of the speakers to turn on. I have read that aftermarket stuff interferes with everything and can cause the amp to not turn off, ever. I left my car in the 70 degree shop at work, and 5 hours later, the amp was hot to the touch when it shouldn't have been. SO, until I can wire the speakers to the head unit and bypass the amp completely, I pull both radio fuses and it keeps it from being drained in a matter of hours. Does this sound correct? Or am I crazy?

2.) My auxillary water pump is nuts. After being parked in the shop for hours, I will walk by only to hear it running randomly. :confused: what controls it and how do I check for functionality?

3.) An example of what happens daily: Provided I took out both radio fuses the night before, the car (usually) does not have much trouble starting in the morning before work. I hop on the highway & drive 10 miles and stop at a gas station. Run inside, grab a drink. When I come back outside, the car STRUGGLES to start. It's like it doesn't have enough cranking power but does eventually start (usually). There were times I'd turn the key and absolutely NOTHING happened. I'd sit for a few minutes, try again and again and eventually it'd start right up. I replaced the ignition switch and that problem hasnt happened again (as well as the static coming from the back speaker after I pulled the key out. That seems to be fixed too.) I am VERY new to anything electrical, but from what I have gathered, this could possibly be a bad ground. I am terrified to mess with my battery for fear of electrocuting myself :eek: but that said, I do have a multimeter and pretty much everything I could possibly need to track this down. I install car audio so I have a lot of tools at work for my disposal, I just need someone to tell me what needs to be done. My coworkers hate anything German and refuse to help with my car. Any help here is appreciated.


Now for the codes...



Well ok... Since I'm using my work computer and my laptop with the codes doesn't want to connect to the internet, I'll just retype the summary of them and copy and paste the whole shebang later.

Engine, 3 fault codes found. (Ignore these... these are because I am currently driving around with a crushed vapor canister due to someone plowing into me in a parking lot.. I haven't had the money to buy a whole new fuel tank so I havent been able to put the new canister in yet.. long story.. but these starting issues happened WAY before this did. So it's ruled out.)P0420- Catalyst System, bank one. Efficiency below threshhold.
P1476- EVAP leak detection pump: malfunction/insufficient vacuum
P0441- EVAP emission control system: Incorrect flow.

Auto Trans- None

ABS brakes- None

Airbags- 2 faults found. (I have seen these before, so these are recurring)
00591 Seat belt switch, driver (E24)
32-00 Resistance too high

00532 Supply Voltage B+
07-10 Signal too low, intermittent.

Central Conv., 8 faults found :eek: Never seen this many....

00849 s Contact at ignition/starter switch
25-00 Unknown switch condition (may be fixed by ignition switch)

01330 Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 Supply voltage too low, intermittent

00955 Key 1
09-10 Adaptation Limit Surpassed, intermittent (perhaps why the key fob wouldn't unlock but would lock the car? luckily I had my spare set with me. only happened once though.)

01331 Door control module, driver side (J386)
35-10 Supply Voltage too low, intermittent

01332 Door control module, passenger side
35-10 Supply Voltage too low, intermittent

Rear spoiler, no faults found.


help.. please. I am so desperate. :cry:




edit: newer scan.




Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWV.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 EM
Component: 1.8l 5VT NB AG4 G 3594
Coding: 00003
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 6DDF37160D01

5 Faults Found:
16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
P0441 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17884 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Malfunction / Insufficient Vacuum
P1476 - 35-00 - -
16500 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Implausible Signal
P0116 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - 35-00 - -
17511 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low
P1103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0100

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 JT
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4835
Coding: 00012
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 8B1BD98E93D5

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 D
Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103
Coding: 0018945
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 2B5BF90EF395

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 A
Component: 25 AIRBAG VW5 0E 0004
Coding: 12853
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 356FDF7625D1

2 Faults Found:
00591 - Seat Belt Switch; Driver (E24)
32-00 - Resistance too High
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1J0 959 799 AR
Component: 7S Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
Coding: 00256
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 8E1DD09AE0C7

Part No: 1J2959802C
Component: 7S Tõrsteuerger. FS0002r

Part No: 1J2959801D
Component: 7S Tõrsteuerger. BF0002r

5 Faults Found:
00849 - S-contact at Ignition/Starter Switch (D)
25-00 - Unknown Switch Condition
00953 - Interior Light Time limit
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4)
35-00 - -
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5)
35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 54: Rear Spoiler Labels: 1C0-959-733.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 733 B
Component: Heckspoiler 0002
VCID: 2A55FC0AFC6F

No fault code found.

End --------------------------------------
 

·
I'm not a dude.
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Anyone? I pulled the car in to the shop today and hooked up the multimeter just now. 13.5v running, but as soon as it shuts off, I sit there and watch the voltage drop. It's been about 5 minutes and I'm at 10.2v. :(

If anyone could help me use this stupid thing..


bah. :(
 

·
squirreljuice
Joined
·
388 Posts
I don't have any solutions for you, but I just wanted to let you know that I'm having some of the same problems with my bug as you are, so you aren't alone!
 

·
I'm not a dude.
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Come on guys, surely SOMEONE has had similar issues..

Storm front came through today so instead of the usual 115 degrees it was 70.. car started up just fine. :banghead:

at this point with no solution, I am ready to pack up and move to antarctica where it will be cold all the time and my car will have zero starting issues..
 

·
member
Joined
·
253 Posts
Oh, Randi!
Sounds like you have let too many problems go on for too long. The auxiliary water pump is probably draining the battery - someone else on this forum is having the same problem. My guess would be the relay for that pump but I don't know where it is.
 

·
I'm not a dude.
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Oh, Randi!
Sounds like you have let too many problems go on for too long. The auxiliary water pump is probably draining the battery - someone else on this forum is having the same problem. My guess would be the relay for that pump but I don't know where it is.
I know, 3 years is a long time.. :(

But, that was my guess too. I'm going to start unpugging it when the car is sitting. Hopefully I'll get to order a bentley today so I can figure out what controls it. I've searched everywhere and there is no definitive answer. Relay somewhere under the battery?

//edit

A friend of mine mentioned I should check out the AIT and I'm assuming he means this: http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_8_29_449_3924&info=Meyle_06B905379AMY_Air_Intake_Temperature_Sensor&products_id=3449

Is that something I should look into?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,753 Posts
Your going to have to excuse my stupidity, "auxiliary" water pump? I find no such animal in my Bentley. By definition of auxiliary, this would be a supplemental or secondary water pump. Are you possibly confusing this with something else? I have a Bentley and would be glad to help with the electrics involved, but need to know what it is you're talking about. The engine's water pump is mechanically driven by a belt, and is not electric.

MORAV
 

·
5/23/10 <3
Joined
·
10,918 Posts
I think its specific to the 1.8T. I know the VR6 engines (not a stock NB option of course) have an auxiliary water pump as well. I've seen a number of threads about this water pump being a cause of battery drain.
 

·
I'm not a dude.
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Your going to have to excuse my stupidity, "auxiliary" water pump? I find no such animal in my Bentley. By definition of auxiliary, this would be a supplemental or secondary water pump. Are you possibly confusing this with something else? I have a Bentley and would be glad to help with the electrics involved, but need to know what it is you're talking about. The engine's water pump is mechanically driven by a belt, and is not electric.

MORAV
Yes, the secondary water pump. the one that runs after the car is shut off the cool down the turbo. It's supposed to run for like 8 minutes or something like that. Mine runs randomly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
Info that I know on the secondary water pump...

It's actually called the "After-Run Coolant Pump"
Should run for 10 minutes after shut down - Approximately
Fuse 16 is the one that it draws power from
Fan control module runs/controls the pump

Easy checks -
Using a test light unplug the connector on the back of the pump, connect test light to pins in side connector, switch ignition on and off again, test light should light up.
(paper clips or similar item work good as probes if you need something small to insert into the electrical connector)
Using jumper wires apply power directly to the pump to insure its good also.

K
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,753 Posts
Yes, the secondary water pump. the one that runs after the car is shut off the cool down the turbo. It's supposed to run for like 8 minutes or something like that. Mine runs randomly.
I'm sorry, but I have been all through the Bentley 1.8Turbo Section and find nothing of a secondary water pump. There are, however, coolant supply and return pipes (one each). I have no idea how a secondary pump would work as the cooling system is pressurized and pumped through the water pump. Perhaps you have this all confused with the intercooler, which has to do with air and not water. Going to look at the wiring schematics section next. The Bentley also makes mention of the fact that the turbocharger is cooled and lubricated with engine oil.

Hoping someone knowledgeable in turbos will come on here and clear this up.

M.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,753 Posts
Info that I know on the secondary water pump...

It's actually called the "After-Run Coolant Pump"
Should run for 10 minutes after shut down - Approximately
Fuse 16 is the one that it draws power from
Fan control module runs/controls the pump

Easy checks -
Using a test light unplug the connector on the back of the pump, connect test light to pins in side connector, switch ignition on and off again, test light should light up.
(paper clips or similar item work good as probes if you need something small to insert into the electrical connector)
Using jumper wires apply power directly to the pump to insure its good also.

K
Yes, I am seeing Fuse Position 16 - "A/C clutch, electric water pump" in the fuse identification table for both 1998-05/2003, and 06/2003 - on. I also see this fuse as a check fuse # for failed cooling fans which indicate they are also powered through this circuit. Not finding anything else on an electric water pump in the Bentley. Yet. But still looking.

M.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
From the eBahn reader


Repair Manuals / Engine Mechanical, Fuel Injection & Ignition / 1.8 liter.../19 Cooling System.../After-run coolant pump, checking

Wiring Diagrams / Year / Air conditioning, 1.8L.../ Coolant fan control (page 3 of 5)
V51 - AfterRun Coolant Pump / comes off of J293 which is the fan control module.

K
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
You cannot electrocute yourself by touching your battery, go ahead and try it grab both the positive and negative post and see what happens. I can tell you absolutely nothing will happen. Now if you grabbed both posts with a bare wire in your hands you would find that the wire would burn you. But without a conductor between the post it will not electrocute you.

Check for excessive draw with everything off, simple to do. Disconnect positive cable from battery. Let car sit for about 10 minutes. Set voltmeter to amps if you have a spot on your voltmeter for 10 amps use it. Put 1 test lead on battery and one on positive cable, you should be showing minimal amps should be around .030 or below might be higher but should be a very low number. If it's showing something like 5.7 amps then you need to start unplugging stuff to figure out what is creating the battery drain issue.I would start with the radio personally just from the info you provided about the amp being hot to touch. And as far as your co workers refusing to work on anything German just tells me they have no idea about electrical systems. Automotive electrical is pretty much the same regardless of manufacturer.They have no interest in learning, what a waste.......any trained monkey can install a stereo, don't take it personal. But you seem to be at least willing to try and learn how to fix a problem.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top