Does anyone wonder what it will cost to maintain our NBCs after the warranties have expired? My opinion is that there will be a glut of 4 year old NBC's on the market beginning in 2007. I think it's easy to love our cars when we are not pouring money into them, but once we have to pay to replace a top or a computer or any of the other thousand things that have gone bad in our cars we may change our minds.
End of Warranty
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I haven't changed mine. Of course, I never let them touch my car for warranty service except for a few times.
It's funny (not really) how everything that seems to break never seemed to be covered by warranty except for those couple recall items or 'extended warranty' items. (isn't that a rip off? they know the windows were gonna go bad, but if they don't go bad in the first 70K miles you're on your own?!? Just saving themselves the $ from doing a full recall... very scandelous)
The only warranty work they've done for me: replace the instrument cluster at 1000mi; and fix a broken window regulator.
It's funny (not really) how everything that seems to break never seemed to be covered by warranty except for those couple recall items or 'extended warranty' items. (isn't that a rip off? they know the windows were gonna go bad, but if they don't go bad in the first 70K miles you're on your own?!? Just saving themselves the $ from doing a full recall... very scandelous)
The only warranty work they've done for me: replace the instrument cluster at 1000mi; and fix a broken window regulator.
this is a sore spot with me.
I had a job last year driving 40 miles per day. so I was fast approaching the 50k cut off. I bought an extended warranty to 100k for $1400. I got the "gold" package.
so my tension cable broke. I take it in. well I had it replaced last year w/ the recall. it seems, you can't get a recall piece replaced again EVEN IF THE REPLACMENT IS CRAP TOO. so we check the extended warranty. reading the fine print, that only covers the convertible motor. so, if the top breaks or tears, the release button breaks, the tension cables break AGAIN or anything else, I’m hosed. I was originally quoted $750, but got out of there around $300.
so when shopping for extended warranties make sure it covers EVERYTHING!!!
I had a job last year driving 40 miles per day. so I was fast approaching the 50k cut off. I bought an extended warranty to 100k for $1400. I got the "gold" package.
so my tension cable broke. I take it in. well I had it replaced last year w/ the recall. it seems, you can't get a recall piece replaced again EVEN IF THE REPLACMENT IS CRAP TOO. so we check the extended warranty. reading the fine print, that only covers the convertible motor. so, if the top breaks or tears, the release button breaks, the tension cables break AGAIN or anything else, I’m hosed. I was originally quoted $750, but got out of there around $300.
so when shopping for extended warranties make sure it covers EVERYTHING!!!
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That sure sounds like a Ford or GM product to me, based upon my past experiences!noR said:
I am seriously concerned about the long-term post-warranty costs of this car. Ours has almost 20k miles on it, and it has been brought in for:
I've only owned Honda/Acura cars in the past, and nothing broke until at least 100k miles. I'm also extremely anal about having everything working perfectly, so I make full use of that warranty and bring the car back for the slightest imperfection.
My solution now is to simply treat it as if it were fragile. I make sure that no one slams the doors. All the buttons need to pressed with a soft touch, and you should never yank open the door without waiting for the window to drop. The motion of having the door move while the window drops seems risky.
- rattling top
- broken window regulator
- numerous rattling in driver door
- broken alarm LED on passenger door
- melted driver side headlight wires
- broken rear cupholder
I've only owned Honda/Acura cars in the past, and nothing broke until at least 100k miles. I'm also extremely anal about having everything working perfectly, so I make full use of that warranty and bring the car back for the slightest imperfection.
My solution now is to simply treat it as if it were fragile. I make sure that no one slams the doors. All the buttons need to pressed with a soft touch, and you should never yank open the door without waiting for the window to drop. The motion of having the door move while the window drops seems risky.
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We took our NBC in for a driver door rattle. It turned out to be the "lock" mechanism, toward the back of the door, that was rattling. It couldn't be tightened, so it was ordered and replaced. All is rattle-free now! (Except, when I took it in for install, the car got hit and runned while at the lot somewhere, but that's another story.....)schen72 said:
If your rattling issue hasn't been fixed, show them the lock.
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