VW Beetle Forum banner

engine drags after timing belt & cylinder head replacement

4K views 54 replies 4 participants last post by  Devil 
#1 ·
I replaced the timing belt and cylinder head on my 2003 convertible but when I tried to start the car it turned over a few times but wouldn't start. When I tried again it was just dragging as if I had a dead battery. tried 3 different batteries but it would barely turn over. Any idea where I might have made a mistake? Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Did you turn everything over by hand before you started it up the first time? Starter connected?
 
#4 ·
Is this the first time; doing a timing belt on the 1.8T? The first time, can be a challenge and it is possible, to install things, like the belt pulley, that is tensioner by the hydraulic tensioner {wrong}, which in turn, could cause things to bind or be cockeyed. I would double check things and confirm; that all your timing marks are in phase and the head/cam timing is correct as well.


If you have been down in the weeds on a repair like this for awhile; it is easy to lose your objectivity and overlook something, in your install/timing phase process. If you have a friend or family member; that is mechanically inclined, you might bring them over and have them check everything with you, having a 'fresh pair of eyes", has solved many a issue, when working on a more involved project, like a rebuilt cylinder head. I don't know, how many times; I have been stumped or others have been stuck on something; then, they look at something you have been starting at for hours, days or weeks, the issue is obvious to them, which fixes things and you then, can move forward. Just a thought and an idea; from my own struggles with fixing cars over the years.
 
#5 ·
Actually, I've been able to turn it over but now it is almost too fast as if there is no compression. I don't have a compression tester but I will borrow one this weekend.
And I still haven't been able to actually start it.
In regards to your suggestion I already had a friend look at it but he hasn't been able to come up with anything either so far.
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
No compression.
But I found the culprit. Bolt on camshaft sprocket had loosened and the woodruff key was sheered off. so when turning the engine by hand it was okay but when turning the engine fast by starter the sprocket was just turning on the part of the cam that it attaches to. So now I have to take everything part again to the timing belt again on top off fixing the cam... Something that should have been more time consuming than difficult has now turned into a massive job!
This is probably going to take a few days but I will post again when the cam issue is fixed and the timing belt is all set up.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Always look up trouble codes; on the ross tech wiki:


This seems like a odd code; i don't know if this applies to our vw engines, a vw scanner might give you a factory vw code vs. a generic obd code:


P0354 VOLKSWAGEN - Ignition Coil 4 Primary/Secondary Circuit

 
#12 ·
P0413 VOLKSWAGEN - Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve 'A' Circuit Open



Trouble codes, tend to build up over time; you might clear them, take a test drive, rescan and see what has come back. Let us know, what comes back and we can go from there. Thanks.
 
#13 ·
I'm glad to hear; your head swap worked out ok and everything is working as it should. If you have any info, about the new/used/rebuilt head you used, needed parts, special tools you needed to purchase, repair cost or possible issues you had to deal with, in doing this pretty involved repair process. Please share anything, that might help others needing to do the same head swap; it would be greatly appreciated! It is always good to hear about people's repair experiences; especially in the deeper level ones, like this.Let us know. Thanks. :)
 
#14 ·
Had all the codes cleared but one came back PO442. Maybe I damaged the canister when I was putting the engine mount back on. That mount was a nightmare. But it had to come of since the timing belt loops around it. It was easy when I got the cylinder head at the wrecking yard. I got it from a passat , I think . They have the engine going from front to back so I didn't have to take the mount off. But on the beetle you do. It took me 2 days just to take it off and to put it back in. Raise the engine-lower the body, then the opposite , back and forth. The other thing was the bolts from the exhaust manifold to the turbo. The first 2 were no problem but the last one, the one closest to the head was tricky. It is very shallow so I had to grind down a 17mm socket. The bolt is slightly under the top edge of the head so the socket kept slipping off it. I also had to use an extension that was ground down to were it would slightly wobble in the socket> Gotta go...
Cylinder Tool socket Tool accessory Socket wrench Metal

I got to get that code cleared today so I can get it smogged on Monday...
 
#15 · (Edited)

As noted above, it could be something as simple as a leaking seal in the gas cap; you might replace it with a new one, clear codes, take a drive and see if the code comes back. I think the gas caps; don't cost much, so that could be a cheap fix.

Beyond that, more work maybe needed; a visual inspection, pressure or smoke testing, etc. to find he source of the evap leak.

Let us know, how things go and we can go from there. Thanks.
 
#18 ·
Like the sound it makes when you do not completely disengage the handbrake. My sound comes on every time I hit the accelerator. I am not sure why. I only have that one po code and the check engine light is on and a yellow triangle with an exclamation mark and an arrow looping all the way around the triangle. Don't know what that one is. But the beeping is super annoying....
 
#19 ·
Ok, well, what are the current trouble codes you are getting? Based upon the codes you are posting; I'm assuming, you have a generic obd II scan tool. To read ABS and other possible related problems; you probably, need a VW specific scan tool, like VCDS by Ross Tech or equivalent (OBDEleven, other VAG scan tool, etc), to read those specific VW factory trouble codes, which can narrow down the issue. If you get more codes; and/or a scan with a VW compatible scan tool, please post any codes you get and we can go from there, to figure out why you are having the "beeping" issue and the various lights are on, in the speedo cluster.

You have already, "gone deep down the rabbit hole"; in during in depth repairs on this Volkswagen, further diagnosis and troubleshooting, pretty much requires the use of a VW specific scanner with factory level capabilities, like VCDS by Ross Tech, it is a investment @ $199 but totally worth it, I have been using it, since 2007, when my factory VW warranty went out and it has saved me thousands in repair costs and my car literally, would not be on the road today without it.

At the end of the day, either you pay someone to diagnose things; and they will be using a VW factory level scan tool, costing you most likely more then buying VCDS or you fix it yourself with your own equivalent tool; VCDS, enables you, to gain control of your diagnostic, troubleshooting and repair process, which finally, completes the missing capability to truly "see", what the onboard VW proprietary diagnostic system sees and this is a very powerful way, to finally stop "flying blind", eliminate the guessing, speculation, about what is going on with the car. This will help you to finally, allow total access; to all the live data, factory vw codes and ultimately, hopefully, fix your car. When you get the tool; you can tell us the factory VW codes, that are coming up and then, do more in depth testing and if needed, look at live data, do output tests, etc. Let us know, how you want to proceed with your diagnostics, troubleshooting and repairs (get access to a vw scan tool allowing you to diy, take it to a pro shop, have then handle it or "punt", etc), we can go from there. Thanks.

 
#21 ·
Sounds good; let us know, what you decide
to do with the vw factory scan tool issue and when you get trouble codes, post them and we can continue the diagnosis and troubleshooting process with you. Thanks.

PS: the best bang for the buck is probably the latest version of the ross tech vcds cable;


VCDS[emoji2400] HEX-V2[emoji2400] Enthusiast @ $199:

-
 
#22 ·
I looked into it but I simply can't afford it. But there is something weird about the codes I am getting. I got 3 or 4 codes which I erased. Then, after running the engine for a bit I checked the codes and now I have 1 code that was there before but 3 other that were not.I erased them again. The next time I tested it I got no codes and my mil disappeared. After running the engine again and testing again because the mil came back I get 4 completely different codes (2 of them pending). Weird, right? And somebody was telling me that a bad ground connection might be to blame for those everchanging codes. Could it?
 
#23 · (Edited)
There are other cheaper tools; Obdeleven is a sub $100 tool and so that is a cheaper option and it runs on android devices, then the latest version will be ios/apple compatible (in beta now with basic scanning; more full features coming later). The old version is white (android only); the new one is black (andoid/ios).


There are other handheld "VAG" scan tools; ranging from a basic vw code reader for $20 and up (sold on amazon, ebay, etc), it is recommended to get a scanner that has advanced capabilities like live data, output testing and coding ability, to really take advantage of a scan tool, to diagnose, test and repair your volkswagen. The downside of many of these cheaper Chinese made scan tools is; lack of support, limited capability, lack of consistent software upgrades to remain compatible with the latest cars, poor documentation, clunky interface design and at times, odd trouble code results from poor software quality control/development (as the saying goes; "you get what you pay for").


If you have a android device to run obdeleven; it seems to be the best bag for the buck and be convenient to use your phone or tablet, you already own.

Ultimately, the investment in a vw scan tool with advanced capabilities like vcds or obdeleven; can save you thousands of dollars in repair costs by enabling you to do many repairs yourself. Bottom line: invest in the correct diagnostic tools to do your own repairs or spend even more money, by having a professional shop do the repairs for you.

Let us know, what scan tool you are currently using; we can see its capabilities (brand, model number).

As to your current trouble codes being thrown; please, post the code numbers, we can go from there. Thanks.
 
#24 ·
After fixing a somewhat loose ground cable I tested again then erased and re-scaned after driving a bit and at the moment i have no trouble codes and the MIL hasn't come back (knock on wood...).
But I have 3 i/m that are flashing which I believe means that those monitors have not yet met the right conditions for a self test. Those three are the CAT,. EVA and AIR. Does that mean I am going to have to drive around until they turn on? And what do I do if they dont come on?
I am cool with the mechanical stuff but this damn smog stuff is way above my pay grade!
Also my airbag light has come on (maybe that has something to do with that annoying beep that comes on for 5-10 seconds every time I start from a complete stop (doesn't happen after a rolling stop).
Scanner I was using is a matco tools, qik scan+, md1032.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Well, sounds like you are making progress; it sounds like your "readiness" monitors, are in the process of going through their required drive cycle, then will typically show, "complete" or "pass", when done. This is another things, that the VCDS by Ross Tech; can do, is "force" these testing to go through their testing without needing to do the drive cycle and that way, you can tell if any related repairs were successful.

You can read more about vw readiness routines and probably more info, then you ever wanted to here:

snapon manual: VolkswagenAudiReadinessCodeCharts.pdf

There are also videos; showing VCDS procedures for forcing the readiness testing procedures; which is a huge time saver and a great feature, if working on a customers car and need to confirm, all the testing will pass:


As to the beeping noise; I would assume, there should be a vw trouble code, related to it? Does your Matco scan tool; have a German/European/VW coverage, software package, installed on it?


Looking on Matco's website; it says "import/domestic coverage" but doesn't really go into much detail about european car coverage:

Product Features



  • OBD2 Mode 1 to 9 coverage
  • Displays Enhanced OBD2 Live-Data (J1979 & J2190) with data graphing
  • On screen code definition lookup library
  • Internet updateable and upgradeable
  • Comes with access to optional online Repair Solutions and VIN specific fixes
  • Works on all 1996 and newer cars, light trucks, SUVs and minivans – Domestic and Import
  • Links to all OBD2 protocols including CAN, Keyword 2000, ISO 9142-2, J-1850 (VPW & PWM) to decode “Check Engine” light problems
  • Displays Freeze Frame Data
  • Automatic refresh updates data every 30 seconds when connected to the vehicle – an easy way to verify repair completion
  • Features unique patented all-in-one backlit screen display and 3 color LED display for quick State Emissions readiness check and drive cycle verification
  • Diagnoses enhanced engine and transmission diagnostic codes
  • Erase button turns off ‘check engine light’
  • Includes Spanish and French Interface & Definitions (selected by a menu command)
  • 2010 model year compliant with 15 monitor coverage. Will work on heavy duty and diesel vehicles
  • Retrieves generic and manufacturer specific codes

    users manual here: http://matco.carscan.com/Content/Support/Manual/Manual_1032_E.pdf

    Ultimately, you may need to invest in a VW scan tool; in addition, to your Matco scanner. OBDeleven and/or VCDS; would be the two most popular options.
 
#26 ·
It only covers Toyota, Honda, Acura, etc but no German cars.
I have been trying to do the drive cycles but nothing so far, 3 i/m are still blinking.
But now a trouble code showed up PO442 but no MIL.
Could that annoying beep be caused by the airbag problem?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top