[CynicalJedi]

Hi all, new to the forums, I've just bought a New Beetle a week or so ago, it's the 2000 model and was modified somewhat by the previous owner

It has an aftermarket exhaust system and a huge pipercross induction kit, I was told due to the intake the MAF had to be unplugged. When it's connected anything over 2k revs and the engine sounds like it's choking out but it doesn't misfire, I've been driving it with the MAF unplugged so as not to damage the engine but every so often it will stall when slowing down with the clutch depressed (So the car is essentially in neutral)

It's nothing spectacular, the revs get to around 800/900 where it should idle and then just drops so the engine stalls.

I've got an OBD scanner en route in the mail currently, obviously with the MAF unplugged the traction control light is lit up on the dash, so that'll be an error that pops up.

Does anyone have any ideas what the cause of this is? Is it simply because the MAF is unplugged so because it's not reading the air intake it can't properly adjust the throttle to idle?

Second big question: Does anyone know whether the MkIV Golf air box is good to use on the New Beetle? Seeing as they're very similar and I can't for the life of me find any New Beetle air boxes to replace this intake kit. I'm in the UK, if that helps.

Edit: After reading a few more threads it seems this could possibly also be related to the engine speed sensor being wonky, hopefully getting the OBD scanned with reveal some more information, I've got a bluetooth obd scanner but unfortunately I can't find any apps on iPhone that support bluetooth obd, only wifi (I had an android phone before and used Torque)

Cheers guys

 

[CynicalJedi]

Also getting this issue when starting the motor:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR20baoXbo8

The video says it's cam gearing but different vehicles different issues I suppose, any ideas?

 

[Smileybug]

For the first issue, I'd say wait until you get your code reader and see what it says. Getting a stock airbox on as well may help things. A 2.0 isn't really going to gain anything from an intake anyway. Heck, my 1.8T came with a cold air intake and one of the first things I did after I bought the car was to put the stock airbox on. I now am tuned and still running the stock airbox. More than adequate.

As for the second, dirty starter. Pretty common issue. I had it in my New Beetle. It made noises like that for a year or two once it got colder out. Never had issues starting the car though so I didn't worry about it. You can clean it all up and make the noise stop though.

 

[CynicalJedi]

For the first issue, I'd say wait until you get your code reader and see what it says. Getting a stock airbox on as well may help things. A 2.0 isn't really going to gain anything from an intake anyway. Heck, my 1.8T came with a cold air intake and one of the first things I did after I bought the car was to put the stock airbox on. I now am tuned and still running the stock airbox. More than adequate.

As for the second, dirty starter. Pretty common issue. I had it in my New Beetle. It made noises like that for a year or two once it got colder out. Never had issues starting the car though so I didn't worry about it. You can clean it all up and make the noise stop though.

Cheers Smiley, it's not affecting the car starting so I'm not too worried about it either, is it a big job to clean it up? & I'm gonna hit up a few of my local recka's and see whether I can find a bug that's had an unfortunate and scavenge an airbox from that or if I can find a cheap MkIV Golf (I'm sure there's plenty of those.. Boy racers and all that) and see whether the airbox from that will play ball.

Would it be a bad idea to unhook the positive from the battery for 10 minutes and see whether it'll adjust to the intake that's on it or would it be better just leaving it for now and see what trouble codes pop up?

Thanks

 

[CynicalJedi]

Update: I was lucky and my code reader arrived in the mail today, I've just been out to scan the car and these are the faults currently showing in the order my reader showed them:

16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor
17978 - Immobiliser blocked engine start
16486 - MAF Signal Too Low (Unplugged)
16496 - Intake Air Temp Sensor Signal Too Low (Related to MAF being unplugged..?)
16521 - o2 Sensor B1 S2 Signal Too Low

I've never experienced an issue with the engine not starting, so I'm not sure whether the immobiliser code is prior to me owning the car unless that may be related to the car stalling, if anyone could shed some light on that?

Seeing the Camshaft sensor throwing an error I would comfortably assume that would be the cause of my bug stalling, correct me if I'm wrong.

Again the MAF is unplugged so that error is obvious, I presume the intake temp sensor is also related to that, unless I'm being stupid?

What would people suggest to get my bug up and running at her best again? Bearing in mind I intend on replacing the induction kit with the standard airbox as soon as I can

Cheers

 

[CynicalJedi]

Update the second:

It just dawned to me that the ECU may not have been cleared when it was serviced last so I cleared all the codes and took her to ASDA (Walmart) and back current codes:

16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) Implausible Signal
16486 - MAF (G70) Signal Too Low
16496 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor (G42) Signal too Low

01314 - ECM No Communication

So as I expected, no immobiliser issues, and the o2 was obviously cleared as well.

What would be the first port of call for sorting out the camshaft sensor? Just to replace it?

 

[billymade]

16725/P0341/000833 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16486/P0102/000258 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16496/P0112/000274 - Ross-Tech Wiki (on the 2.0L; the IAT sensor; is integrated into the maf sensor)

01314 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Each of these problems; should be tested to confirm that problem is the sensor or throw new parts at the problem and see if the codes go away.

Testing could be performed with a scan tool that has live data capability. Testing of the each sensor; can also be done by going through the service manual and following the troubleshooting steps.

camshaft position sensor:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ition_sensor/component_information/locations/

mass air flow sensor:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ntrols_silicone_sealer/lubricant_precautions/

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

article about testing the maf:

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/vw/1.8L/maf-sensor-tests-1

 

[CynicalJedi]

16725/P0341/000833 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16486/P0102/000258 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16496/P0112/000274 - Ross-Tech Wiki (on the 2.0L; the IAT sensor; is integrated into the maf sensor)

01314 - Ross-Tech Wiki

So the MAF/IAT codes are because the MAF Is current unplugged, I'm assuming the camshaft sensor is causing the stalling, meaning either the sensor is dying/dead or that the timing belt is out?

 

[Smileybug]

Probably the sensor itself. Pretty common fail point.

 

[billymade]

Either situation is possible; you might run a test to confirm, the sensor is bad and check your timing belt condition. Look at the timing marks to confirm everything is in time and that the belt isn't damaged (possibly jumped time or when it was replaced last, it was off a tooth or so).

testing procedure:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Beetle L4-2.0L (AEG) (2000) > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > With Manufacturer's Scan Tool > Page 3441

timing marks locations

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Beetle L4-2.0L (AEG) (2000) > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures > Page 1723

If you decide to purchase a new maf or camshaft position sensor; be sure, to get a high quality Bosch oem part. You can search for the correct part here: http://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com/en/?p_l_id=6837639

 

[CynicalJedi]

Either situation is possible; you might run a test to confirm, the sensor is bad and check your timing belt condition. Look at the timing marks to confirm everything is in time and that the belt isn't damaged (possibly jumped time or when it was replaced last, it was off a tooth or so).

testing procedure:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Beetle L4-2.0L (AEG) (2000) > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > With Manufacturer's Scan Tool > Page 3441

timing marks locations

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Beetle L4-2.0L (AEG) (2000) > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures > Page 1723

If you decide to purchase a new maf or camshaft position sensor; be sure, to get a high quality Bosch oem part. You can search for the correct part here: Vehicle Search - bosch.com

Unfortunately I don't currently have £600 laying around to spend on a Bosch MAF haha, it'll need to be cheaper brand but that's all good. I'm going to plug the MAF back in tomorrow and give it a run to check whether the MAF is actually damaged (It's reading low signal now because it's not connected)

I'll check the timing belt tomorrow as well though I'm fairly sure it was recently replaced and receipt was included in documents when I purchased, but I'll check regardless

Thanks guys, will keep you informed

 

[billymade]

Bosch aftermarket parts (not from the vw dealer); are not terribly expensive; when comparing them to Vw dealer parts and sometimes they cost less than other aftermarket brands of inferior quality.. Do not buy cheap, poor quality parts; they tend to not work correctly and what is the point of a part, if it doesn't work? This is particularly; important for sensors that control, how the car runs (mafs, cam/crank sensors, 02 sensors etc.). Look up parts; when you get the correct part number, then you can search online for the best prices.

 

[CynicalJedi]

After some fiddling I've got the MAF connected and she's running pretty well again, stutters every now and then when accelerating after a gear change, as well as overfueling a bit (Excess petrol being thrown into the exhaust system making wonderful pop pops when letting off the accelerator)

Next up is changing the Camshaft Pos Sensor, once that's done it'll be time to sort out the little niggly bits like the stupid lights above the sun visors falling out, and my central locking not unlocking the boot/trunk

I did find another site selling Bosch parts @Billymade the first I found was ridiculous, the one I've got now the parts are about a tenth of the price of the other one so bosch it shall be when needed

 

[billymade]

Well, good to hear you are making some progress; using high quality oem parts, like Bosch, is crucial to getting your car to run correctly. Not being from the UK; I don't know what the best auto parts stores are but these guys seem to be pretty popular: http://www.eurocarparts.com although; when I looked up a sensor for my car; the prices seemed high, I'm sure there maybe other places with better prices. Once you get the correct Bosch or Vw part number; you can search online for the best prices.


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