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I have a 2005 NBC 1.8 turbo with 70k miles. The engine will start, but immediately stalls and will start back and stall again and again. It acts like it is starved for fuel. The only engine work I've done recently was replace the battery. I have done the following trying to troubleshoot the problem. It is not out of gas, I replaced the fuel filter. The fuse to the fuel pump is good. I put an amp meter in the fuel pump circuit and the pump draws current (about 4 amps) for about 3 seconds when the key is turned on or when I start the engine, then it goes to zero current draw. Is it normal for the pump to only run for a few seconds then shut off when either the engine is not started or the engine dies?
Could the MAF cause the engine to stall or just run badly? I have manual the shows on the MAF connection that terminal 2 (from the right) should have 12 +- volts with the key on. Is this correct and where is that fed from?
Any help or suggestions on what the issue(s) might be would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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Are there any lights coming on in the dash? Sounds like it could be an immobilizer problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It appears to be a normal display of lights on the dash when I start it. The tach also does register for a couple seconds. What lights should I look for specifically?
What might cause the immobilizer to be activated?
UPDATE ON THIS POST. Yes the immobilizer light is on on the dash when the key is on.
I found this thread about the immobilizer that looks to explain it pretty well. I will post an update when I have gone thru it.
http://newbeetle.org/forums/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/142865-starts-then-stalls.html
 

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DO NOT KEEP TRYING!!!! Every time you turn a key in the ignition that is not correctly paired to the immobilizer, a "secure dash-lock" time in the computer is extended. Its a five minute thing to re-pair keys using software. However, you must have ALL the keys you wish to use present, or you will create a spare key that does what you are experiencing now.
The secure dash-lock prevents the reprogramming of any keys, and has to be cleared. You need to know how long the dash-lock time is, but assuming its 3 hours what you would do is:
Connect a battery charger/starter or another running vehicle to your vehicle's battery (jump start process), put your ignition key in the car and don't turn it. Leave the key in the on position for the 3 hours (or whatever time the lock is).
Your vehicle battery power must not drop below 12v during this process, or you will have to start all over again.
This process DOES NOT reset your immobilizer, it resets the on board computer that has effectively locked anyone with the correct equipment from sorting out your immobilizer issue.
This is very useful if you don't wish to pay VW or other garage for 3 hours (or whatever length of time) just to run a battery connected to your vehicle.
If you can, because you have a garage/driveway then leave it overnight.
Oh and one final and rather important tip... You need to know your vehicle immobilizer PIN number. Without this you can not reprogram your keys or immobilizer.
The PIN can be retrieved using VAG tacho software, and the keys can be reprogrammed using VCDS (Vag-Com) software.
If you are the original owner of the vehicle you should have the PIN on a black keytag that came with your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Dejaylulu for the great information.
Update: Before I received your response, I did the ecm hard reboot as described in the other thread by disconnecting the battery cables and touching them together for 10 seconds. It appears either this worked or one of my keys was causing the immobilizer. My "original old" key will now start the engine but the second key causes the immobilizer to activate again. So it looks like the newer key is my problem.
Should I do the reset of the computer board anyway as you described above?
Is there a procedure to reprogram the key myself?
 

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You immobilizer most likely got "confused"; when you installed the new battery. Low charging problems and low battery voltage issues; can cause this, so I would have your whole charging system checked for correct operation. A new battery alone, may not be your only problem; be sure to have your alternator checked as well, most auto parts stores will do this for free.

The next step is finding the reason; your second "new key" isn't working. Can you give us some history of this key? Have you added this key and had it programmed by someone in the past? Did BOTH of the keys work fine; until you swapped in the new battery?

Keep in mind; that ANY part of the immobilizer system can malfunction and cause the immo light to blink, thus the start/stall issue.

Having a VW specific scan tool (like VCDS by Ross Tech); would be helpful, to try and "see" if the computer, is letting this key be seen and given the permission to start the car. When there are "faults" in the immobilizer; you typically, will get codes for: ecu, immobilizer blocked, speedo cluster problem or key specific faults. A VW scanner would be helpful to read these codes and then, you would need to do some testing for the keys, try recoding them and at that point (if still not working) try a process of elimination to find the problem in the system. Known problems, have been wiring terminals at the reader coil with intermittent connectivity problems (adjustable steering column stretches/stresses the wires) and speedo clusters, that have failed onboard components, that randomly cause the immobilizer to kick on.

Most of the time, re-programming of the keys isn't needed; unless, you are adding new keys. One thing, that can happen; is if someone "adds" a new key; it can kick out the other keys on the list and if all the keys aren't added at once, the other keys will not be programmed, to work with the car.

To get a sense of the key programming process; check out this faq:

VW Key FOB Programming Guide and Secrets, Troubleshooting and Repair

Worst case scenario, many have chosen to have the immo "deleted" from their ecu; this can be done by a specialist, like Ian at reflect tuning for about $55.

https://www.google.com/search?q=reflect+tuning&oq=reflect+tuning&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l2j69i65j69i59l2.4282j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I wanted my immobilizer to continue to work; so, in my case I tried a number of different wiring repairs and various component replacement steps, until I found my speedo cluster was bad. If the problems continue, you might seek professional help, delete the immobilizer or if you want to troubleshoot things yourself, get or rent VCDS by Ross Tech, plus Vag Tacho to pull the secret key code (or "pin number), if you don't have it in your user manual.
 

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To reprogram the key you need VCDS software and a laptop solely for running it. Its probably better that you find somebody that has one nearby and can help you.
If you have used ANY key that causes the immobilizer light to flash you will have dash-lock time that needs resetting before you can reprogram your keys.
Remember you must have your immobilizer 4 digit PIN to reprogram or reset any key.
Since you referred to one of your keys as "newer" I would ask how you got this new key?
Unless it was from VW you are causing yourself ongoing immobilizer issues. Flip VW keys from the Internet are unreliable and the chips inside can cause immobilizer damage.
If you separate the remote button part of the key from the flip part, the remote should have detailed FCC/radio frequency information in Gray etching on the inside parts that are hidden when its slotted together. Sometimes this is in the actual side of the key, where the flip closes so you don't have to take it apart to see it.
Genuine VW keys will be etched in VERY CLEAR VERY FINE WRITING - no mistaking them, cheap copies will not.
If you have cut a spare on a cheap copy off the Internet, then buy a genuine used VW key on ebay and take it apart, replace the blank or used old key blade with the one that you had cut taken from the body of the fake key with the dubious immobilizer chip in it. That way you reprogram a genuine VW chip to your car immobilizer from the old used key you bought.
There are some pictures of the etching here.
Remember every time you try a key that triggers an immobilizer shut down of the engine, you increase the time that you must exhaust the dash lock by leaving the key in and another battery on your vehicle to keep the current at 12v.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The newer key I mentioned was purchased on the internet I had it cut and then programmed it using the "manual method" mentioned in the link provided above. The key worked for about a week then the immobilizer activated. The original key still works. Sounds like I need to purchase a genuine VW fob.
 

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What you might want to do; is check to see if there is a RFID chip, inside the key fob, if there isn't one then it won't work. You can buy the chip by itself; the key fob plastic case itself, has nothing to do with the programming aspect of the key.

Look at: "So what is an RFID Chip, anyway?"

VW Key FOB Programming Guide and Secrets, Troubleshooting and Repair

A new RFID chip from fixmyvw is only $11:

VW and Audi Diesel - Keys - Replacement Key Parts - AARodriguez Corp.

Your car is a 2005; so, it uses the immobilzer III (3) system; so, read up on that info in the faq section and pay attention to info about the RFID chip (note: one time use):

VW Key FOB Programming Guide and Secrets, Troubleshooting and Repair

If things are still unclear; call or email fixmyvw and they should be able to get you what you need to finish the job or call a auto locksmith or local vw dealer for help. As noted, the other option is ian at reflect tuning and do the immo delete for $55.
 

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The reason I mentioned the plastic casing was more to identify the key than anything else. Genuine VW keys have a silicone or resin glue that embeds the chip into the plastic making it hard to remove. Copied keys do not and the chip is loose and can be taken out easily. Its always better to have the genuine VW casing on your key because if you ever have to go to VW dealer they will serve you without question, while presenting a vehicle with a fake key will almost certainly get you sent away if its key or immobilizer issues you are seeking help with. So even if you purchase a used and cut VW key from someone else that perhaps no longer has the vehicle but has the key laying around, you can remove their useless cut key blade and put your own non VW key blade in the housing and VW will program the key for you and put it down to an error - as they have no idea what vehicle the chip inside was paired to previously.
VW dealer will not help you program or use a key that was not manufactured or sold by VW - simple as!
Most locksmiths will not either.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dejaylulu, when doing the reset, should I have the key in the on (engine not running) or off position? Also,maintain at least 12 volts at the battery?
 

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Yes, ignition on but no engine running. And another vehicle or a battery charger connected to the battery to prevent the voltage from dropping below 12v.
 
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