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Discussion Starter #1
I know this topic is gone over again and again but every situation is different. My mom in laws 2001 new beetle would randomly die and was sluggish in performance while check engine light and epc light and occassionally a flashing red oil light I think it is would be on. She said she took it to 2 shops spent about $800 @ each shop and it still ran like crap. I pulled the codes on it.
P0201 p0202 p0203 p0204 injector circuit malfunction fault and then p0103 p0113 p0322. Firstly I got a new battery because the old one tested at 6v, then I changed the crankshaft position sensor because that code says it was getting no signal. Tomorrow I intend to clean the maf sensor to see if itll get rid of p0103/p0113. So far with new battery and ckp sensor there has been no change in lights or performance. I'm wondering I dont know if its related or not... when I drove the car I noticed every now and then I would have no turn/brake lights or the turn signals would be sporadic on which side would work. I did t have any codes for that but could that be causing my issue. If I clean and ultimately replace the maf sensor and the epc light + check engine light dont go away does that mean my pcm is bad? What does the circuit fault on my injectors mean? They ant functioning properly? The actual wire circuit is damaged? I was thinking I'd just change the plugs and injectors to see if that'll change. Thank you for your input
 

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Well, first, always scan for trouble codes; (you already did that: good work!) and then, look them up, on the ross tech wiki or other sites, (if not listed):

https://www.engine-codes.com/p0201_volkswagen.html


(Note: on the 2.0L; the maf sensor design, has a integrated intake temp sensor, thus why you have the p0113 code)


16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal


First with the 1-4 cylinders injector "short to ground" issue; the odds of ALL four, of the injectors failing at the same time, is not likely. You probably have a power issue: remember, the fuel pump relay #409 provides power to the injectors; so, that might be the problem or check circuits for power with a noid light or start fuel injector testing procedures, as outlined in the service manual.


You have a maf code: you might use a scan tool and view live data. Confirm, it is working as it should (2nd gear @ WOT; to see max reading capability, note testing info link below):


We have had issues with the plug/terminal ends to the maf; having a bad connection and so, wiggling the plug to the maf, while observing live data, can confirm that issue (see if the data stream; drops out or changes). New plugs and terminal ends; can be purchased, at your local VW dealer or plug/pigtail bought online from ebay or amazon (I would recommend genuine vw parts; for a lasting and reliable repair).

If you end up needing a new maf; stick with oem Bosch and buy from a reputable source for parts, as there are many counterfeit Bosch parts being sold online, from sources such as ebay, etc.

To look up the right part #'s for your maf and other needed parts; look them up on the Bosch online catalog here:


You have a code, for the signal of the engine speed/crank sensor failing; I would assume, it is failing and/or bad. These tend to work ok, when cold and then, as the engine heats up ; the sensor will stop working and the signal will drop out ( the result: the engine dies or stalls; typically, will restart fine, then the failure mode starts over again).

If you need a new sensor; as noted above, stick with oem Bosch and that would be the best quality to go with and is the same exact part, as provided by VW originally .

As to the turn signals and brake light; the selector stalk, can get dirty, causing the signals to be intermittent. Sometimes, spraying some contact cleaner into the steering column/turn signal assembly, can fix that or if no change, it may need to be replaced.

I use QD CRC electronic contact cleaner with excellent results (cheap, under $ 5 @ Walmart in the auto supply area):

QD® Contact Cleaner, 11 Wt Oz - 02130 https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ACYBGNRzfcog3Jg--pxVPuSrC82xetKOTA:1570075255810&source=hp&ei=d3KVXdLvLYb-tAW7qq_ABw&q=QD®+Contact+Cleaner,+11+Wt+Oz+-+02130&oq=QD®+Contact+Cleaner,+11+Wt+Oz+-+02130&gs_l=psy-ab.3...0.0..541...0.0..0.0.0.......0....2..gws-wiz.&ved=0ahUKEwiSh4-Pmv_kAhUGP60KHTvVC3gQ4dUDCAg&uact=5

Also, we have also seen; where the flasher relay can go bad and cause a similar issue. The relay and button; are integrated together and are replaced as a unit.


For the brake lights; the brake light switch, is a very common failure and is easy to replace. Bad bulbs, loose connections in the bulb sockets are also very common; requiring replacement to fix those (stick with genuine vw parts; check ebay for a vw dealer selling parts under "quirkparts", they are cheapest I could find).


So, overall, keep in mind; that codes build up over time and may or may not relate to your current problems. Clearing codes and seeing what come back; after a test drive, is a good way to "clear the deck", as it were and see, if you can tell what hard failures or current issues are happening at this time.

You have some work to do but just start working down the list; obviously, getting the car to stop dying is the top priority and running right, would be first on the agenda and work on the other stuff later.

Let us know, the results of your testing and possibly, bad parts replacements (e.g. crank sensor), don't just replace a bunch of parts, waste time/money but confirm with testing, after doing the proper testing steps shown in the vw service manual links. Report back and we can go from there, thanks! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
billymade Thank you! Before I made this post I spent weeks scouring around, seeing what all people were suggesting etc. Your comment is the most in depth with links to actual real resources. Most I've seen is links to other people's posts or comment things like read the codes, google search it etc. You provided a real logical feedback. Super helpful. I have been doing my own testing. But you gave me a more narrow area to be checking. I never found those kinds of resources during my searches. So update: I changed the crankshaft sensor this morning and that code went away. During test driving I've cleared the codes and only 2 that come up are the maf and ait. I checked the maf by unplugging and plugging it back in while it's running to see effect on motor. Mine died as I plugged it back in. I checked the connector, I've done an ok initial inspection of the wire harness. I've checked all my fuses/relay/bulbs/switches all good. I pulled the hazard button from the dash housing and apparently a mechanic at one of the shops mom took it to didnt know wtf. When I pulled the switch out.... literally the wire harness connected to terminals on back of switch but someone removed all the internals of the switch except for the light.. wow.. so I got a new hazard switch/relay coming today at 15:30. Along with a new maf sensor. Looking into that hazard button/relay, blinkers and brake light run through that so I'm confident I'll have those functions back with the new one. Waiting on parts to see if my troubleshooting assessments have been accurate....I'll know in 2 hours 😁
 

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Great, you have make solid progress; great visual inspections and troubleshooting! You are working down the list and crossing them off, as you fix them, great work! :) Keep us in the loop; as you move forward in your repairs process. Thanks.
 

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Well excellent news. I installed the new maf sensor and both those codes cleared. The epc light and check engine light went off. I installed the new hazard button and now I have turn signals and break lights. I dont understand thought. I simply read the codes, cleared them to see which were the heavier of the codes as in the ones that wouldnt clear. Once I did that I bunched the codes up 2 had to do with the maf sensor, 1 was solitary crankshaft sensor, and the others were codes that didnt stick. I replaced 3 parts and fixed my mother's bug. Granted I am a maintenance person, I've done aviation mechanics when I was in the navy. I know my way around a motor decently in my opinion. I dont understand how she took it to 2 shops and someone that does mechanics EVERY day couldn't figure it out. I hope this helps anyone who's got these problems, Billymade your links to literature will definitely help those who need it
 

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Well, it sounds like you knocked it out, fixed the problems and got the job done; as I would expect a experienced Naval Aviation mechanic would! 👨‍🔧This may not be your case but I have had some trouble codes, remain persistent and not go way (confusing). In my case, it was the bank1/sensor1 02 sensor; after replacement, the code would not clear! A "hard reset" of the ecu, can clear problems and strange issues, you can sometimes experience. I did this and my 02 sensor trouble code; went away and stayed away, just a tip if you ever have any strange problems or need to clear all learned/adaptation settings. A hard reset: remove positive/negative battery cables; touch them together for a moment and reinstall on the battery (memory cleared).

Again, great work and glad to hear; you got things fixed for your mom! The Bug is back on the road! 🏁 Bravo! :)

PS: I don't know, why auto "techs" that work on VW's; can't seem to fix things or just do hack jobs, never seem diagnose problems correctly. Even, the VW dealerships, I have worked with, attempting to fix my car under the factory warranty; failed to fix many issues I was having and only after my warranty was out, did I end up fixing these issues myself with the help of VCDS by Ross Tech! I don't know why but VW's are the most rigged; neglected cars I have seen. Whether this is ignorance on the part of those fixing the cars, owners unwilling to keep scheduld maintenance/repairs up to standard or just lack of training, real troubleshooting skills for auto technicians, go figure. I'm afraid, many auto "techs", scan for trouble codes and just replace parts without doing the needed testing and troubleshooting, to successfully repair, actual problems (aka: throwing parts at the issue; shotgun or using the parts cannon). I do think, many feel lost working on euro/german cars but if you a competentant auto tech, it would seem you should be able to fix what people bring into your shop.
 

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Congrats SJM! Thank you for your service. I am equally baffled and hoped Billy had an answer about why we see this sort of thing with our VWs. I actually believe it's not just VW and all cars. I feel part of the problem is today's "techs" are not current with modern auto repair. IE code reading based diagnose. SIL husband is a great guy, auto repair his whole life and what he tells me blows my mind and he is a veteran. Another issue is people drive with CEL on until it dies and by this time there is dozen plus codes, more than one issue, and it really complicates the diagnosis. Alternately, many people I know maintain their cars well and just live with a CEL on because the shops cannot resolve. They can't even clear the code. That said, these shops here are mostly honest, do decent work, and often times their repair helps so they are still in business. I knew full well when I bought my daughter's Bug that I would have to be hands on but admit you have to be hands on everything nowadays. I am grateful for forums/sites like this and especially grateful for the folks who spend their time helping.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It boils down to how much money you got, how much your willing to pay. Personally with my cars I'm a freak about preventative maintenance. Everything has its scheduled time to put in a little elbow grease. I do most of services myself like oil change, ignition tune up, tranny fluid, even differential fluid. My grandpa taught me to work on cars, when I was 13 we built a dodge d100 series sweptline pickup. That thing crawled like no other. I learned to value my vehicle and now I dont miss services. I dont push the car further than i should. I dont typically go for the cheap **** either. I mean I like a good deal but if paying a few extra bucks gains this or that then so be it. Now a days you got young people that dont know anything but there to cheap ass to pay someone to do it and some how in their mind scrapping a car because of this little problem and getting a new car out weighs that. My moms like anyone this bug is her baby and I wanted to help out not because I'm getting anything out of it but because she talks about the car so richly and yet for the first year I moved up here (shes actually my mother in law) all I seen was the car rotting away because she was devastated she went to 2 shops and spent $1600 for literally nothing. Getting her car back to running I'm into it for $300 but after I give it the much NEEDED basic services new brakes coils plugs oil change I'll be into it for $600. Yea my pocket is feeling it but I just revived someone's baby (special car) that's good for me, I like to help people. I've been on the extravagant side of life and I've been on the street side. I had cancer and I beat that ****. It changed my hole outlook on life and now if I can help someone (within reason) I'm gonna give it a shot. Like Billymade linked in all that real understandable literature. That was a huge help. I searched and searched and couldn't find stuff like that. All I found was very vague descriptions. Most the time although I was looking up 1 code the info I could find related to repairing that code kept leading away into 3 or 4 other different codes saying this code means this but actually this other code here is a likely cause of that code.
 
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