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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings my fellow Beetle enthusiasts :)

I was finally able to get some codes read on Mrs. Beetle. The check engine light comes on and goes off at random. I have to disconnect the after-market radio to read the codes. Here is what is going on:

at 92452 miles, codes are:

P0441 EVAP Emission Control System Incorrect flow (could be faulty gas cap)

P2261 Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) Mechanical malfunction (could be something wrong with the turbo)

P0327 Knock Sensor 1 (G61) Signal too low static - no define (could be crappy fuel) (is this knock sensor buried on this model Beetle under the intake?)

Readiness all failed. Cleared codes.

at 92522 miles, codes are:

P0441 was gone.

P2261 and P0327 are still present.

Readiness all pass. This was after driving 69 miles after clearing the codes.

at 93230 miles, codes are:

all of the above codes are present plus a new one:
P0455 EVAP System: large leak detected static - no

For Readiness all systems pass.

Fire away! I've got my seltbelt on for the bad news--a five point harness for this!

--Mrs Beetle

P.S. I almost forgot. I replaced the fuse for the back up lights and it blew (again?). There is a short somewhere. Feel free to chime in on this too. Might as well.
 

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P0445 could be the expensive one, then again it could be the gas cap. There is a leak somewhere in the sealed fuel tank system. So, since this is the first time it has shown up, inspect the gas cap seal and make sure the cap is on tight every time you add fuel.

If it comes back it may be a crack in a hose or in the charcoal canister (somewhat common). But it will be harder to track down and could be expensive to repair or replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like two of the codes point to the gas cap. $35 whopping dollars at ECS tuning. I wonder if I should try a wrecking yard. ::sigh::

As for the knock sensor, I have no idea how to go about finding which one is the troubled part on my car. There are so many to choose from on ECS tuning's website! Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

I found that by just entering the codes and the basic description exactly as it appears on the scanner for the emission leaks onto the search engine, I get a really good diagnosis of what the problem is. Pretty cool! I'm gonna try it for the knock sensor code and see what pops up on the web.
 

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Looks like two of the codes point to the gas cap. $35 whopping dollars at ECS tuning. I wonder if I should try a wrecking yard. ::sigh::

As for the knock sensor, I have no idea how to go about finding which one is the troubled part on my car. There are so many to choose from on ECS tuning's website! Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
It MAY be the gas cap, if you are lucky. It could also be the EVAP canister or a hose somewhere.

I only found one part type for the knock sensor for a '05 1.8 engine:

OEM / Performance Parts for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Mini, Porsche & Volkswagen - ECS Tuning

There are two of them on the engine. Sensor 1 is the one near cylinder #1.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It MAY be the gas cap, if you are lucky. It could also be the EVAP canister or a hose somewhere.

I only found one part type for the knock sensor for a '05 1.8 engine:

OEM / Performance Parts for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Mini, Porsche & Volkswagen - ECS Tuning

There are two of them on the engine. Sensor 1 is the one near cylinder #1.
There are three sensors on the ECS Tuning page you linked--is there a way to tell which sensor is the correct part for my year/make/model Bug? Should I just call them?

Thanks -- I hope the sensor is not buried deep inside somewhere--?? = many hours labor = $$ :(
 

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There are three sensors on the ECS Tuning page you linked--is there a way to tell which sensor is the correct part for my year/make/model Bug?
They all are the same part, just different manufacturers. The VW part number for all three is the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
They all are the same part, just different manufacturers. The VW part number for all three is the same.
Wow, with such a wide fluctuation in price?? Should I assume the highest priced part is the highest quality?? Being a newbie at this is daunting!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What is a PCM/ECM?

What does that mean? A knock sensor tells the engine computer when one or more of your engine's cylinders are "knocking", that is, exploding the air/fuel mixture in a way that delivers less power and can be damaging to the engine if prolonged. The computer uses this information to tune the engine so that it doesn't knock. If your knock sensor on Bank #1 is generating a low output voltage (perhaps under 0.5V), then it will trigger a P0327 DTC. This P0327 code may show up intermittently or the Service Engine light may be lit constantly. Other knock sensor related DTC codes include P0325, P0326, P0328, P0329, P0330, P0331, P0332, P0333, and P0334. Symptoms You may notice drivability problems including fluctation engine RPM, a loss of power, and perhaps some hesitation. There may also be other symptoms. Causes Potential causes for a P0327 DTC include (but are not limited to): The knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced There is a wiring open/short/fault in the knock sensor circuit The PCM/ECM has failed Possible Solutions Verify the resistance of the knock sensor (compare it to factory specs) Inspect for broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor Check the wiring and connections leading to/from the knock sensor and PCM/ECM Verify proper voltage is reaching the knock sensor (e.g. 5 volts) Verify proper grounding of sensor and circuit Replace the knock sensor Replace the PCM/ECM



Read more at: OBD-II Trouble Code: P0327 Knock Sensor Circuit Low Input (Bank 1)
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Causes Potential causes for a P0327 DTC include (but are not limited to): The knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced There is a wiring open/short/fault in the knock sensor circuit

The fuse for the back up lights has blown out after recently replacing it. The fuse that was in there was blown. The new fuse blew within in a week.

An aftermarket radio is installed, in order to read codes from OBD II port, the radio must be disconnected.

Driver's side door switch for passenger side window will roll the window up, but not down. The switch for all windows works for them all. The switch on the passenger side door works for the passenger window.

Could any of these weird things be related to a short in the knock sensor circuit? Or the other way around?

Does anyone know the procedure to find out if there is a wiring open/short/fault in the knock sensor circuit?
 

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Oh no! I just noticed that's for the 2.0L engine!
The 1.8 will have the same parts, the connections to the engine will be in a different place. Follow the hose from the purge valve back to the engine and disconnect it there. Then you can check if the purge valve is holding vacuum. This could cause the P0441 if it is not holding.
 

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Causes Potential causes for a P0327 DTC include (but are not limited to): The knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced There is a wiring open/short/fault in the knock sensor circuit

The fuse for the back up lights has blown out after recently replacing it. The fuse that was in there was blown. The new fuse blew within in a week.

An aftermarket radio is installed, in order to read codes from OBD II port, the radio must be disconnected.

Driver's side door switch for passenger side window will roll the window up, but not down. The switch for all windows works for them all. The switch on the passenger side door works for the passenger window.

Could any of these weird things be related to a short in the knock sensor circuit? Or the other way around?

Does anyone know the procedure to find out if there is a wiring open/short/fault in the knock sensor circuit?
Most likely is that the knock sensor is bad. These are known to fail occasionally. Before you replace it, take a look at the wiring for the sensor. Follow it back from the sensor to where it disappears into the wiring harness. If the wires all look intact, replace the sensor.

The other things are not related. I'd pull the backup lights out of the bumper cover and inspect the wiring. Remove the bulbs and look for any signs of the conductors shorting together. Check the bulb filaments for damage.

The window switch for the passenger window has probably failed. They are delicate and are known to break easily. ECS carries them. You can pretty much tell where the likely failures are by looking at what ECS carries!
 

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Wow, with such a wide fluctuation in price?? Should I assume the highest priced part is the highest quality?? Being a newbie at this is daunting!
That is more of a difference than you will usually see. Aftermarket prices at 2/3 of the genuine VW is not uncommon. Much less than that and I would be suspicious that the construction and/or materials will be inferior. If it were me, I'd go with the middle price one in this case.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
this valve..that valve...so many valves!

I read in another thread:
"The 249 is not the diverter or bypass valve. It is one of those vacuum valves in the mess on the top of the valve cover to the left side when looking at it, all that stuff you have to remove to change out the #1 and #2 spark plugs. First thing I would check are all the vacuum lines. Also check the plastic check valve .... mine got eaten up by rubbing against another part and was leaking, and keeping me from getting decent boost. Since I have the APR software with the fault code erase ... I didn't see any codes about it. I may have some pix in the checkvalve thread I had about a month or two ago."

So which valve do I order? I couldn't find his "checkvalve" thread he mentioned.

I'm making an appointment for Friday, mechanic will replace the knock sensor and gonna have him also put in a new valve to fix the code P2261 Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) Mechanical malfunction. The mechanic said it's a recirculation valve or switching valve, but that's not helping me in choosing the right part.

So....In reading the post quoted above, I'm trying to find out which valve to order. They're hovering around $150 in price from ECS Tuning, so I want to get the right one!

Does anyone know the part name (or number would be even better).

Cheers!
Mrs Beetle's #1 Fan
 
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