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I am slowly weeding out codes, fixing things one by one. I'm down to 3 codes:


Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWV.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 EM
Component and/or Version: 1.8l 5VT NB AG4 G 3594
Software Coding: 00003
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 6DDF37160D0A
3 Faults Found:

16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
P0441 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - 35-00 - -
17511 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low
P1103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: 0000 0000


The first one is the one I have a question about.. I was looking on the vortex and did the output diagnostics to test the purge valve. It clicks like it is supposed to. But I just saw a post on here that said "So, after some thread searching and past experience with the same thing on our Eurovan, I decided that it must be the Evap Purge Valve. I took the valve out and tested it and the electric part was working (you could hear the clicking) but the actual valve inside was leaking. So it needed to be replaced. Called the dealership and the list price was about $160. Ouch...." Thread here.

is it possible that this is happening or should I look elsewhere?

As for the other 2, I'm almost positive my cat is dead and I need a new one.

And I'm thinking one of the pre-cat 02 sensors is bad also. Anyone have any experience with any of these codes?
 

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I am slowly weeding out codes, fixing things one by one. I'm down to 3 codes:


Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWV.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 EM
Component and/or Version: 1.8l 5VT NB AG4 G 3594
Software Coding: 00003
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 6DDF37160D0A
3 Faults Found:

16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
P0441 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - 35-00 - -
17511 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1: Performance too Low
P1103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: 0000 0000


The first one is the one I have a question about.. I was looking on the vortex and did the output diagnostics to test the purge valve. It clicks like it is supposed to. But I just saw a post on here that said "So, after some thread searching and past experience with the same thing on our Eurovan, I decided that it must be the Evap Purge Valve. I took the valve out and tested it and the electric part was working (you could hear the clicking) but the actual valve inside was leaking. So it needed to be replaced. Called the dealership and the list price was about $160. Ouch...." Thread here.

is it possible that this is happening or should I look elsewhere?

As for the other 2, I'm almost positive my cat is dead and I need a new one.

And I'm thinking one of the pre-cat 02 sensors is bad also. Anyone have any experience with any of these codes?
get on the internet and find a place that can sell you Cat A Clean. It is a liquid you put in fuel tank and it helps with weak cat converters. the o2 sensor needs to be replaced if the heater circuit if malfunctioning and this can cause higher fuel usage and cat damage. Normally the purge solenoid sticks closed or the line coming off it gets clogged. check the hose coming off it before changing.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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I don't know much about EVAP stuff, but maybe this will help:

16825/P0441/001089 - Ross-Tech Wiki
16825/P0441/001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
Possible Symptoms

* Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active

Possible Causes

* Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Regulator Valve (N80) faulty/jammed
* Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (N115) faulty/jammed
* Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Sealing faulty
* Pipes between Tank Breathing and Throttle Body leaky/blocked

Possible Solutions

* Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Regulator Valve (N80)
o Perform Output Test
* Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (N115)
* Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister
o Perform Basic Setting
* Check Pipes between Tank Breathing and Throttle Body


As for the other codes, I had the P0420 and my cat was dead. Also, there is only 1 pre-cat sensor. There are 2 sensors, but one is pre-cat and one is post-cat.
 

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The N80 valve seems to be a common problem, but from what I have read, will relate to problem starting after filling up. Just saying. For those more versed in VAG-COM usage, will the VC not be able to more closely identify the problem?

M.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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It gives you codes but that's it, at least when you pull them. What Oh Randi! posted is what VAG-COM shows you. You can monitor measuring blocks for things, but you also need to know what you are looking for. I used measuring blocks to determine which of my O2 sensors failed right after I got my car. Good stuff really. But I still end up looking up codes on the Ross-Tech site for better descriptions of codes and where to start looking.
 

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It gives you codes but that's it, at least when you pull them. What Oh Randi! posted is what VAG-COM shows you. You can monitor measuring blocks for things, but you also need to know what you are looking for. I used measuring blocks to determine which of my O2 sensors failed right after I got my car. Good stuff really. But I still end up looking up codes on the Ross-Tech site for better descriptions of codes and where to start looking.
That's not my understanding in reading on the eBahn site and reading through the Bentley Reapair Manual. Forget the codes, readers do that. It's my understanding switches, relays, sensors, components within the instrument cluster, ECMs, etc, can be checked. Perhaps I have this all wrong? :dunno: Going to have another look at the eBahn site.
 

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You can certainly do much more troubleshooting with the VAG-COM and look at measuring blocks. Not sure about relays and such as I've not done that. It can do a lot though.
 

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I'm not a dude.
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Discussion Starter #8
As for the other codes, I had the P0420 and my cat was dead. Also, there is only 1 pre-cat sensor. There are 2 sensors, but one is pre-cat and one is post-cat.
Yep, just looking at the measuring blocks it looks like the cat's "properly functioning" temperature is under 400 celsius, mine was like 470. I read that excessive cranking can lead cause the cat to fail also. Granted mine is 10 years old and probably on its way out anyway, I'm sure the slow starting from the past year probably took a toll on it.

And that's what I thought, but the shop I took the car to to weld my exhaust back together said there was 2 pre-cat and 1 post cat. I was confused. I thought there was only 1 pre-cat.. hhmm


That's not my understanding in reading on the eBahn site and reading through the Bentley Reapair Manual. Forget the codes, readers do that. It's my understanding switches, relays, sensors, components within the instrument cluster, ECMs, etc, can be checked. Perhaps I have this all wrong? :dunno: Going to have another look at the eBahn site.
You can check valves and relays with VAG COM. I did. All the output tests function like normal. (as in I could hear the valves operating. On the vortex it just said if you do the output tests and can hear the valves clicking, they are good. All mine checked out fine..

On a side note, my car was hit on the rear passenger side and it crushed my EVAP canister and broke the spring valve by the fuel filler. I replaced the canister and the whole fuel tank, what are the odds the canister is bad? It did come from a salvage yard, the shop that did the body work on my car found it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok so, I did the output tests again with the car not running so i could hear better. The N80 valve has me puzzled. It doesn't click "rhythmically" like the others do.. it seems erratic. Perhaps this means the N80 is sticking intermittently and needs to be replaced.

I'm starting to think it's not coincidence the starting issues my car has developed lately. On cold starts, it tries to start, sputters and dies. Almost always starts the second time, if not always the third time. Boyfriend thinks the fuel pump is the culprit. The car seems sluggish to me, so I think it's either low fuel pressure or a bad A/F ratio. Can the n80 valve cause problems like that? I saw a thread on the vortex that is very close to the issues I'm having. (No backfiring or surging though..) Any thoughts? I really don't want to have to replace the fuel pump.. it primes like normal when you open the door, I have absolutely no issues once the car is started, except it feeling more sluggish than usual. Oh, and my gas mileage SUCKS. like 20 mpg highway.
 

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Ok so, I did the output tests again with the car not running so i could hear better. The N80 valve has me puzzled. It doesn't click "rhythmically" like the others do.. it seems erratic. Perhaps this means the N80 is sticking intermittently and needs to be replaced.

I'm starting to think it's not coincidence the starting issues my car has developed lately. On cold starts, it tries to start, sputters and dies. Almost always starts the second time, if not always the third time. Boyfriend thinks the fuel pump is the culprit. The car seems sluggish to me, so I think it's either low fuel pressure or a bad A/F ratio. Can the n80 valve cause problems like that? I saw a thread on the vortex that is very close to the issues I'm having. (No backfiring or surging though..) Any thoughts? I really don't want to have to replace the fuel pump.. it primes like normal when you open the door, I have absolutely no issues once the car is started, except it feeling more sluggish than usual. Oh, and my gas mileage SUCKS. like 20 mpg highway.
Why would you replace the fuel pump unless it tests bad for pressure? if it is priming and pumping. Replacing expensive parts IS NOT the way to diagnose problems. The N80 valve on the other hand... (and yes, I think it could cause those type of problems)
Bentley Fuel Pump Diagnostics and R&R attached.
 

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I'm not a dude.
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Discussion Starter #11
Why would you replace the fuel pump unless it tests bad for pressure? if it is priming and pumping. Replacing expensive parts IS NOT the way to diagnose problems. The N80 valve on the other hand... (and yes, I think it could cause those type of problems)
Bentley Fuel Pump Diagnostics and R&R attached.
Oh no, I'm not replacing the fuel pump yet, it was just an idea he threw out there. I absolutely refuse to throw parts at this car ever again(especially something as expensive as the fuel pump, I am not made of money), I only replace once I'm positive it'll fix the problem. The N80 I do believe is bad though. And from what little I've read, it could cause a lean condition as well as the rough cold starts. Does the bentley REPAIR manual show you how to do diagnostic testing with VCDS? The paperback service manual doesn't..
 

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I'll have to check the RM. I've been having software issues that I need to get with eBahn on, but haven't got around to that yet. But, I was having some issues with my Kaspersky ($hit) Anti-Virus (I had to get rid of it, all of a sudden is was blocking my email attachments, both opening and attaching), and that may have resolved the problem. Haven't been into it for a while. But I've got to tell you, I'm VC illiterate.

I'll let you knowif I can find something, if someone doesn't come along before hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pretty damn NB savvy gal here, can't imagine she overlooked that! :)
lol! Nope, installed a new mann fuel filter maybe a month ago.


It started up just fine today after sitting almost 24 hours. Got gas, started up fine again. hm.

On a side note, the new exhaust I installed yesterday sounds amazing. :) Highly recommend the factory performance exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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lol! Nope, installed a new mann fuel filter maybe a month ago.


It started up just fine today after sitting almost 24 hours. Got gas, started up fine again. hm.

On a side note, the new exhaust I installed yesterday sounds amazing. :) Highly recommend the factory performance exhaust.
You found a "Sport" exhaust? p/m me with the details! I've been trying to find one.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ill get the details for you. I've become good friends with the parts manager at the tulsa vw dealership. He texted me and told me the catbacks were on a blowout sale, $150. He gave me the one he bought for his GTI and he bought another. Ill ask him where he ordered it! It is amazing!!
 

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Yeah, I know how much, been meaning to call all of the Dealers here for a couple weeks, just keep forgetting. I'll pay the shipping no problem. Oh, kill the post, at least till I get my hands on one (or two). (lol)
 
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