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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This DIY is for Removing and Replacing the Evaporation Canister; however some of the steps in this DIY can be used to adjust, clean and/or replace the Fuel Door Actuator Cable.

If you are asking yourself the question below, then your problem might be the EVAP Canister; however the problem could be related to either of the three valves (Pressure Retention Valve, Gravity Valve, Switch Over Valve) connected to the filler neck. This DIY does not cover filler neck or fuel tank.

1) When I go to put gas in my car the fuel nozzle keeps shutting off?

TECHNICAL NOTES: This DIY Covers Model Years 1998 thru 2005.

TECHNICAL REQUIREMENT: I have been asked if there is/are alternative steps to this DIY; there are always alternatives, but according to Bentley, this is the better way to do it.

DISCLAIMER: The author(s) assume that you (the reader) are reasonably capable with the automotive tools necessary to get the job accomplished, which means that you won’t glue your fingers together, then break something and then are smart enough to know not to try to blame or post ranting about anyone else if something goes horribly wrong because of it. AGREED?

These instructions were developed using the following NB's...

1) 1998 2.0 liter, 5 speed

As always, just remember to offer a simple thank you and credit to the original author if you pass on this information to friends and/or family!!

TIME NEEDED: 2 to 4 Hours; if you do not break anything.

ITEMS NEEDED: A VW New Beetle Bentley Repair Manual or the Bentley DVD or a Haynes manual.

PROJECT COST: Part cost varies, shipping and taxes not included ...

1) 2.0 Liter 1998 thru 2003 -- $423.94
2) 1.8 Liter Turbo 1999 thru 2003 -- $423.94
3) 2.0 Liter 2004 thru 2005 -- $620.44
4) 1.8 Liter Turbo 2004 thru 2005 -- $620.44
5) 2.5 Liter 2006 thru 2010 -- $620.44 -- (not covered in this DIY, just thought I would note it)

SPECIAL TOOLS: NONE.

WARNINGS: There are some White Plastic Tubes that are pressure seated onto their hose connections; if you damage one, the evaporation system may/will not work properly and you will get a CEL. If your state has emissions testing, you will not be able to pass.

CAUTIONS: You will be working under the car while it is on a jack or jack stand, so be sure and take the proper precautions to avoid an unwanted accident and try not to break anything or it will be costly to fix it.

RE-INSTALLATION NOTES: Be sure to put the plastic wheel-well cover back in or the small debris that can be picked up by the tire during rotation will damage the EVAP system.

Be careful with all plastic, it will be brittle. If something does not move, look for the screw(s) that you missed? There will be several screws/bolts so do not loose any; I put mine in Ziploc bag(s) and label them.

So let’s begin...

The Yellow Rectangle in pic [EC 01] shows you the location of the EVAP Canister.
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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5,639 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Step One: Remove the Rear Passenger Side Wheel. And the tire can be placed under the passenger side door [EC 02]; which can help prevent an unwanted accident.

Step Two: Remove the plastic Wheel-well cover, pics [EC 03 thru EC 07]; by my count there are 20 screws and two nuts [EC 03-4 and EC 05-14].

Pics [EC 09 and EC 10] show you the Fuel Filler Tube, the Evaporation Canister and all those nice :rolleyes: tubes and hoses.
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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5,639 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Step Three: Remove the Rear Passenger Side Tail Light. Inside of the trunk on the passenger side, remove the cover plate and remove the taillight nut [EC 11]. Now from the outside of the car place your hands on the yellow circles and with gentle force rotate the light to the left, about an 1/8 of a turn; then using a flat head screw driver, find the little metal clip [EC 12] that holds the taillight in place and gently pry the taillight up. When you get the taillight out disconnect the wire harness [EC 13]. Pic [EC 14] shows you the Evaporator from the top and pic [EC 15] shows you the underside of the filler tube.

Technical Note: If you are not careful :eek:hnoes: you will crack your taillight and you will need another one.

Step Four: Remove the Fuel Door. Remove the filler tube gas cap and the pry the gas door cable retaining clip [EC 16] up and pull out the gas door cable; then remove the screw. To remove the gas door assembly, pull up from the door cable hole, toward the front of the car. Pic [EC 17] shows you the filler tube from the top.
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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5,639 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Step Five: Remove the Evaporation Canister. Remove the three bolts [EC 18, 19 and 21] that hold the Evaporation Canister on. The last bolt is the hardest and you have to remove the side marker light [EC 20] to get it out. Disconnect the wire harness [EC 22-4]. Now there are three different methods for disconnecting the vent tubes; tube number one [EC 22-1] is simply a pull, like a vacuum hose. To disconnect tube number two, squeeze in on the orange/yellow tabs [EC 23B] and pull off. Now for the third tube, [EC 23A and 23B] you will need a jewelers screwdriver; with the tip of the screwdriver push up on the bottom white part of the connector [EC 23C] and pull off.

Technical Note: Tube connection #3 is a PITA :banghead:, so I chose to dismount the EVAP Cannister so I could get to it; however be careful, :eek:hnoes: with bolts removed, the weight of the canister will be held up by the white plastic tubes and you do not want to crack or break one.

That's It! Your Done! :banana:

Assembly is reverse of removal.
 

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thanks -

Removed canister successfully. Thanks! It was going through the rear marker light to remove the third mounting bolt tip that I was missing.

Anyone have thoughts on troubleshooting a leak on the evap canister? It has thrown the 'small leak detected' code and after a smoke test my mechanic said it needed to be replaced. I'd appreciate any thoughts on repairing instead of replacing this $350 part.

Thanks.
 

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nice

Nice diy man. What's the common issue with that system? luckily I have had no problem with mine but it's good to know this diy is here just in case.

thanks for posting.
 

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Hats off to you D2Beetle, I have a 2007 NB and this the step by step process you made allowed me to confidently replace the evap canister - and as you said, that bold behind the side marker light is definitely a PIA???

Anyways, thank you!!
 
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