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I picked up a slightly used gray 2001 1.8t with 80k miles. I am the 3rd owner now. The person I bought it from had it sitting in their drive way for several months untouched and deader than a door nail. They didn't even realize they had the turbo engine (I was lead to believe I was coming to look at and possibly buy a 2.0L). They wanted to sell it because the battery kept going dead, 2 front tires are worn down and they wanted some money to buy a larger 4 door car.

Since not starting and having a dead batt were the biggest problems pulled the battery, put it on my charger jumppacked the electrical system for some trouble shooting.
I suspected the alternator first. After some poking around with my fluke multi meter I almost instantly ruled out the a bad alt as the source of the 50ma battery drain. Plus bad alternators normally draw a lot more than 50ma.
After quickly going over the electrical system it looks like the CD player in the trunk is drawing power when while the car is off?
That should be easy enough to fix, I will just pull power to it one way or another until I come up with a perminant solution like a key switched relay.

Now for the interesting 1.8t spesific modding question.
In my junk pile back home, and if I remember correctly I should have a brand new K03s turbocharger. I believe it was intended for a 2004 or 2005 turbosport or sportturbo bug, the part number ended in 052 or maybe 053. I bought this turbocharger some time around 2005 and have not put eyes on it in years but know its in a box on my shelf, so if my info is a little mismatched please forgive me.
Will this little KO3s turbocharger fit my 2001 and would there be any benifet to installing it on my motor with out much other modification?

A little hands on turbo work doesn't bother me. I try to stay away from computery gas engine turbo related stuff.

Fabricating piping so I can put 2 huge turbochargers on a diesel engine is what I am use to.
Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums - View Single Post - Question: Turbo charging a turbocharger
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/at...6-turbo-charging-turbocharger-t76-he351ve.jpg
Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums - View Single Post - Question: Turbo charging a turbocharger
That was after I built the engine in my living room lol.
 

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Sounds like a neat project; post up some pics! Let us know; if there are any issues we can help you with! :) I know that the k03s; was primarily put on the Turbo S model; with changed software to take advantage of it, slightly more boost then 150 HP 1.8T Beetles. VW is clearancing out their stock CD changers right now; so, you can get one cheap.. if you want to keep with stock unit. I think I would evaluate the car fully; get it running the best you can, before changing anything. The 1.8T; is very modding friendly and there is allot of performance parts out there. Post up some pics; we would all like to see your new ride! :)
 

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The other power draw that drives people crazy is the Monsoon auto amp in the trunk if your car has the Monsoon system.

Not sure the Monsoon was offered your years, but easy enough to fell, turn on the radio and the display should say Monsoon.
 

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Is it Silver, or a charcoal gray?


If it is a charcoal gray, it's a 2002. Platinum Gray Metallic first appeared in 2002.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is it Silver, or a charcoal gray?


If it is a charcoal gray, it's a 2002. Platinum Gray Metallic first appeared in 2002.
Hmmm that is a difficult one.
But after washing it off I would have to say its more of a silver.

On another note it does not have +80k miles. The sun was in my eyes and the 6 looked a lot like an 8. So its only got 63k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Where the pics? :)


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Soon I promise.
I didn't bring my camera and have not made it back home yet.

At the moment its not a super photogenic car, its got a nice peppering of hail pot marks on the roof.
Does anyone know if I could get good results popping hail dents out of German steel at a "no paint hail dent removal" place?
I have been told some makes don't do so well so well with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The other power draw that drives people crazy is the Monsoon auto amp in the trunk if your car has the Monsoon system.

Not sure the Monsoon was offered your years, but easy enough to fell, turn on the radio and the display should say Monsoon.
I got my fuses mixed up, I thought I pulled the radio fuse that was causing most of the draw, but to my surprise the radio still works.
But the windows don't. It turns out the radio draws about 10ma, I did pull the radio fuse but put it back when I found the real problem. The power window system draws 30ma and something else draws another 10ma, I think it might be the ECU or some part of the ignition system.
I think I can live with a 20ma draw and the A/C works really well so I am not very worried about the windows not working for the time being.

If I park the car for more than a week I will just disconnect the battery.
 

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squirreljuice
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I just have one question: why are you replacing the turbo? No where in your posts you say that that bugs turbo is gone. Why replace what isn't broken? I can tell you that that turbo is not fun to get to, from personal experiences. I mean, if you really want to replace it more power to you but if it isn't toast I say just leave it how it is. Unless you are considering twin turbo charging... but that is a ton of work. Swapping out the turbos will gain you nothing. The ECU limits how much the turbo can put out, no matter what turbo you have. You could even slap the K04 on there and see no gain without a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I put the first 50 or so miles on it driving it around town and taking it up to speed. Gets about 23mpg.
I vaguely remember reading something years ago about venting the fuel to get consistent fillups or is that a diesel thing?


Discovered another reason why they wanted to get rid of this car so badly.
The drivers side rear sound like something in the rear suspension has broken loose and is beating against the body, or at the very least the exhaust pipe is bouncing against the body when ever I go over any tiny little bump or rough road.
I think/hope its a bad shock, the noise seems like its up way to high to be exhaust pipe to body contact. The drivers side rear shock is securely bolted in place, already checked that. Now I'm going to pull that shock and drive around the dirt truck parking area to see if that's what it is.
Its driving me crazy and I have to fix it before I drive 5 hours over rough Texas state highways to get back home.

2nd problem is that bad tire (one of the reasons for selling the car so cheap) is starting to show belt and wont make a 5hr drive. I saw that I have a full size spare and it looks like I will have to put the good rear tires on the front and put the spare plus the semi good front tire on back.
I ordered 2 yoko avid ascend tires from tirerack but they wont get to my house (5hrs drive from here) till Saturday.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just have one question: why are you replacing the turbo? No where in your posts you say that that bugs turbo is gone. Why replace what isn't broken? I can tell you that that turbo is not fun to get to, from personal experiences.
Yes I noticed that when I was replacing the air filter, I cant even see the turbo with out a mirror.
I acquired my KO3s years ago and was just wondering about the possibility of replacing it as part of a fun cheap mod since I already have the turbo.
Once I saw lifted the hood and saw that the 2.0L beetle I was coming to look at was in fact a turbo 1.8L it jogged my memory about the turbo I put up on a shelf so long ago.
 

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I would be replacing the timing belt and water pump long before you go swapping turbos. It is long overdue, time wise. Yes, mileage is pretty low, but its got 12 years on the belt and other components if it is all original. A busted belt on a 1.8t is not something you want to deal with. General rule of thumb is every 60-80k or every 5-6 years, whichever happens first. You can do a number of timing belt jobs before you reach the cost of one head/engine rebuild after a failed belt.

And as far as the turbo, it's been said already that without a tune, it won't matter. I would leave the turbo as is and get maintenance up to date and fix the problems it has.


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For the rear suspension; a fail point on the Mark IV Volkswagen, is the rear axle bushings.

Her is a diy that gives you a sense of the job/issue:

How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV

VWVortex.com - How to: DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV

Having said all that; it could be anything, I would take it to a shop and have them put it on a rack; have them evaluate the whole suspension front/rear. Most places; will do this for free and give you a diagnosis, estimate of the repair costs.
 

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squirreljuice
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I acquired my KO3s years ago and was just wondering about the possibility of replacing it as part of a fun cheap mod since I already have the turbo.
Even on a tune that turbo isn't going to do much for you as far as extra power over the stock one. It's only marginally bigger. If you really want to have fun with it, I would suggest going another step or two up in turbo size. Something in the range of an IHI VF-39.



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Discussion Starter #16
I would be replacing the timing belt and water pump long before you go swapping turbos. It is long overdue, time wise. Yes, mileage is pretty low, but its got 12 years on the belt and other components if it is all original. A busted belt on a 1.8t is not something you want to deal with. General rule of thumb is every 60-80k or every 5-6 years, whichever happens first. You can do a number of timing belt jobs before you reach the cost of one head/engine rebuild after a failed belt.

And as far as the turbo, it's been said already that without a tune, it won't matter. I would leave the turbo as is and get maintenance up to date and fix the problems it has.


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I have a car fax thing saying the dealer replaced the timing belt about a year ago, before it rolled over 60k miles or 100k Km. Knowing the dealership they surely replaced the coolant pump too.
I found that the timing belt has an easy access clip on cover so I took a peak inside and it does not look like a 12 year old timing belt.
So it looks like I dodged that bullet.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Even on a tune that turbo isn't going to do much for you as far as extra power over the stock one. It's only marginally bigger. If you really want to have fun with it, I would suggest going another step or two up in turbo size. Something in the range of an IHI VF-39.



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I dug through my turbo parts collection and I do infact have a KO3 053 and an additional K03 044 that I forgot that I even had.

I am used to grossly over sized non-waste gated turbochargers on big diesel engines like my suburban, it has a Garret T76 with a 102mm compressor feeding its air into a Holset HE351VE a (86mm compressor) then feeding all that air into a 6.5L diesel engine. Since I use it on the highway a lot and do some towing the big turbos are handy for midrang and high end power.
They have a suprizing lack of laggyness given the injection pump is set up for non-turbo use. It will have even less laggyness once I max out the injection pump.

I am going to be driving this car on the highway a lot, like that suburban just with out all the towing.
The 1.8L engine on the other hand has more low end get up and go than it can use, its great for stop and go city driving.
But the mid range and high end power just aren't there like I thought they would be.
It goes like hell at first then I am guessing the waste gate opens because the sudden build up quickly drops off. Other wise its got good power, so far its managed to hold any given speed going over southern New Mexico mountains like they aren't even there.
Fuel milage has been ok, getting 23 in the city and up to 30 on the highway, but I have a feeling 30mpg isn't going to be very reproducable.


This turbocharged 1.8L bug gets over these mountains a lot better than the 2000 Lincoln town car we use to have. The 5600lb boat did not like the thin hot air. Anything above 6000ft turned that all mighty 4.6L into a soggy turd.
 

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I would check out the tune of the car; I have a beetle around the same year and mileage, I also live in Las Cruces, NM not too far from you. My 1.8T has not seemed to be running like it should for awhile; turned out both out my diverter valve and wastegate valve was bad or failing. After over 10 years; these parts get tired and they get allot of stress from working with the boost of the turbo. I think allot of these parts; can "soft fail" without fully breaking to the point a CEL will come on. We have a discussion on another thread; you might check out some tips for things to check if you feel the performance of your 1.8T is not up to what it should be. It also; can be a little hard to know how it should act/perform, if you never drove one that is running correctly in the first place. I have been running a drop in K&N filter in my 1.8T since new; it is a inexpensive boost in throttle response and acceleration, that I have been happy with (aside from that you are saving $ by not having to buy new filters). I would get a vw scan tool; so, you can keep up on fault codes and do more in depth repairs if you choose to. Cleaning the throttle body, adapting that, checking the spark plugs and a fuel filter comes to mind... check out more ideas here:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/61284-sluggish-stalling-c.html
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes spark plugs are next on my list. I was going to pull one or 2 and see how they look. If platnum or better plugs were installed by VW then the last time they were changed might have been when the engine rolled down the assembly line.

I have 2 spare WG actuators, if that is even the failure point?
Or is it where the linkage goes inside the exhaust housing?

I was in lascruses last night, infact the car gets over white sands mountian just fine.

I have been lucky so far and have no idea what the check engine light looks like on this car.
 

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What you have to realize; is the that there are many times, codes can reside in the ecm, even though the CEL hasn't come on. Thats why you need; a scanner that is VW compatible, to get the specific VW codes and figure out what is going on. VCDS is the high end scanner about $250 that requires a windows based pc to run (basically a copy of the factory vw scan tool) and on the low end basic scanners are about $40 or so (there are some around the sub $100 that can do live data; etc.).
See, the thing is BOTH my diverter valve and Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve (N75) were bad but they didn't throw a code or a CEL; were "tired" as opposed to totally failed. Check out the link for more things to check on the 1.8T. The Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve (N75) we are talking about; is a electrical switch/valve, not actually the wastegate on the turbo, this part controls when the wastegate works. More info here:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...pr-aftermarket-vs-stock-bosch.html#post847337
 
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