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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's not a turbo question. But a question on the drivers door actuator. Why doesn't my door key lock both doors from the drivers side? But it does on the passenger side. Drivers side does unlock both though. Is this a door actuator issue?
Previous owner lost the remote so I only have the 1 key for now. And is very annoying to remember to walk around to the passenger side to lock both doors.
 

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Ok, basics: what year and model new beetle?

As to door lock issues; these are common with electrical issues with the wiring harness and bad door lock modules being the most common faults.

Read over the problems outlined here and report back, if the symptoms match what you are experiencing?


Note: the passenger side door; will need a “double click”, to unlock. VW designed this setting;, for safety reasons and that way, “unwanted passengers” cannot force their way into your car, when you unlock your door to get in.

Report back after reviewing the vw vortex link and if things seem to be working incorrectly, we can discuss things further. Thanks.


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's an '02 1.8liter Turbo.
All I have is the regular key for use in the ignition and door locks (previous owner lost the remote door key). Like I said, it only locks both sides from the passenger door lock cylinder. But will unlock both sides from either side. Very strange. I read through your link and found nothing. I know these cars have actuator issues. I just thought there was some other issue maybe.
 

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For a new keys and key fobs; a local locksmith could, sell, cut and program it for you. This is probably, the least hassle route and typically cheaper then going to the vw dealer.

The other option is to have a vw specialist make one for you and try diy programming, requiring special vw scan tools like vagtacho (pulls secret key code), vcds by ross tech (program new keys) or have others do it for you. .



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Well, problems typically, narrow down to the physical door lock cylinder part , the door lock module itself, used incompatible parts or wiring issues.



Example of door lock cylinder parts; that make up the parts in the door handle. The parts can wear or break; causing problems opening, locking, unlocking etc.


Above are examples of door lock modules; these physically wear out, have functional problems and the circuit board solder joints cracks and the microswitches fail, causing all kinds of random functional problems.

Faults in the locking system; will typically throw a vw factory trouble code and this can be read with a vw scan tool, helping diagnose actuation problems.

If you do not have one yet; investing in a vw scanner is highly recommended (vcds by ross tech ($199), OBDEleven ($65-$110) and many Chinese “VAG” scanners are sold on Amazon ($30-$150+).


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Normally, you can only access, the key cylinders in the door handles on the drivers side; there is normally a plastic cover hiding the cylinder on the passenger side (is this missing)?

How are the inside switches working? Any problems with them or are they working fine?


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Because i always use my key fob to unlock my car; i went outside and used my valet key, to see how it acts (to confirm).

Turning clockwise (right); locks all the doors and arms the security system and beeps once, to indicate it is armed (red lights next to the lock button flash).

Turning counter clockwise (left); unlocks the drivers door but not the passenger side. Turning it again; unlocks the passenger side door lock.


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As noted incorrect behavior the locks can be a attributed to the failures as noted above; we also see, the use of used parts from junk yards, that are from different years, that may physically fit but be incompatible and this can kill normal function of things in the door and related comfort control module functions.


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Lastly, there is the wiring loom: going from the body, to the door. The loom flexes with each opening, closing of the doors and these wires eventually break and can kill power, functionality, to various electrical powered items in the doors.

The wires are covered by a rubber ribbed sheath and it can be pushed aside, to expose the wires for inspection . If any are broken, they can be repaired with solder, then covered by heat shrink or butt connectors. Because of the exposure to moisture and the environment; it is recommended to use adhesive lined butt connectors or heat shrink tubing to seal out the elements, eliminate corrosion, in the future.


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So, many possible reasons for your unlocking problem; a scan with a vw scanner would be nice way to start checking for faults, in the electrical side of the system, bad parts and viewing live data, could help diagnose, confirm things, as well.

A visual inspection of installed parts, for signs of junk yard incompatible types with paint markers is a classic sign and checking for physical damage of the cylinder related parts and wiring would be on the list as well.

Report back your results of things and we can go from there.


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It's not a turbo question. But a question on the drivers door actuator. Why doesn't my door key lock both doors from the drivers side? But it does on the passenger side. Drivers side does unlock both though. Is this a door actuator issue?
Previous owner lost the remote so I only have the 1 key for now. And is very annoying to remember to walk around to the passenger side to lock both doors.
Ok here is what I know about your issue. The door locks on these beetles have issues. A lot if issues. Good thing the drivers lock module is cheep. 35 bucks gets you a new door lock. Replacing with new fixes alarm issues, done light issues and remote issues. It sounds like you are loosing communication with your can line. First thing I’d do is check the wiring in the drivers wire loom boot that has all your door lock, window and gas/back hatch wiring running through it. I’ve found sometimes the window when it goes down cuts the wiring in this loom and you have communication loss to the cab system. I’d be almost certain you have a cut wire in the drivers door loom. I had 7 wires cut on one of my 2004 that stopped windows from working and locks not working the only things working was the gas release. Even the back hatch didn’t work. I re connected these wires and everything worked again
 
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